Canning Town Walk (2007): 9

9 Thames Barrier Park

The children’s fun area is a nice idea, [32 computer controlled fountains] but this works better at Parc Citroen in Paris, and hasn’t stood up to British weather or use. We just don’t have the same level of upkeep in Newham as does the City of Paris. Competitions such as was carried out for this are a good idea, but only if the judges think rather more about what the result will look like in ten years time rather than on the sketches. It is also unfortunately not possible to enter the Green Dock at the ground level at the north end and walk through it (there is still an entry at the south end.)

[The park is managed by the Greater London Authority and was built on one of the most polluted sites in the country, the former PR Chemicals factory, which took years to decontaminate.]

The sides of the dock were lined by a metal fence with lower wires, which have currently been removed. In their place the fence is lined by normal street safety barriers, tied together with plastic bags. Although it may be effective, it is visually unacceptable and hopefully the fences are to be repaired and these removed.

The two buildings in the park have a Japanese feel. One usefully houses toilets and a café, while the other was erected by Newham in memory of the victims of war. Its undulating seating was intended to carry on the wave theme of the Green Dock, but is perhaps of more interest to skateboarders than for comfort.

Walk along the edge of the ‘Green Dock’ to the riverside.

The park gives an excellent view of the Thames Barrier. Silvertown was one of the areas to be flooded in 1953, though rather less disastrously than Canvey, although some 1130 homes here were flooded. It took until 1982 for the Thames Barrier to be completed. Estimates of how much longer it will remain effective with the sea level rise due to global warming vary widely, but certainly at the moment it is getting used rather more often than was envisaged.

Walk back along the other edge of the Green Dock to the cafe and/or the station.


It’s some years since I’ve been back to the park, and it would be interesting to see how it has changed over the years. Perhaps I’ll find time this summer.

This walk will continue in a later post with Part 10: Riverside which mainly looks at views from the DLR.

You can read the whole document as I published it in 2007 beginning here and see more pictures I took in 2007 on My London Diary at Canning Town, Victoria Dock, Silvertown West.


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Canning Town Walk (2007): 4

4 DLR Beckton Branch

Pass through the station barrier and go up the two escalators to the DLR platform. Until the Bow Creek Walkway is opened this gives some of the best views of this part of Bow Creek.

Pura Foods

Across the railway track and the Bow Creek is the former site of Pura Foods, a large factory site which filled almost the whole of the area in the bend of the river north of the Lower Lea Crossing, and gave the area both a distinctive appearance and smell.

Canning Town Walk (2007): 4
Pura site in 2004 from the SW.

Pura, a leading supplier of edible oils and fats to the UK and for export, began as the Pure Lard Company, but is now a part of a large American company ADM. It moved out of the area probably because of the development value of the site, although there were some years of pressure from local residents in TELCO to improve its environmental act. It continues to process oils on sites further downstream, including Belvedere. Ships used to bring oils to Brunswick Wharf, close by on the Thames, with a pipeline connection to the site, filling the shining storage tanks.

Demolition of the works started around October 2006 and are now (June 2007) virtually complete. A revised planning application seems likely to be approved, if with some revisions. The proposed development is to be mixed use, including a primary school as well as up to 1800 residential units (mainly flats), offices, shops and restaurants, as well as other commercial, community and leisure space. It will be very different from the old site. [London City Island – which has a new bridge across Bow Creek, close to the riverside exit from Canning Town Station. You can now walk through the development and on down to Trinity Buoy Wharf at the mouth of Bow Creek]

Thames Ironworks

These occupied most of the land on the Essex side of Bow Creek, some of which you can see from the platform, as well as parts of the other side closer to the Thames.

(C) 2007, Peter Marshall
Thames Ironworks occupied most of the land adjoining Bow Creek

Board a train for Beckton, getting off at Custom House

From the Train: Silvertown Way

Look through the windows on the left side of the train. You will see it passes the entrance and ventilation towers for the Jubilee Line tunnel under the Thames to North Greenwich. Beyond this, it runs alongside the largely derelict buildings behind Silvertown Way, before going under this to Victoria Dock Station.

Royal Victoria Square

Silvertown Way was the first flyover to be built in Britain, and was completed in 1934. It was followed in 1935 by the Silvertown Bypass, another similar concrete structure, distinguished by a fine bowstring bridge. Unfortunately this was demolished in the 1990s.

SBM Warehouses Ltd and Silvertown Bypass, Hartman Rd, Albert Rd, Silvertown, Newham, 1984 84-7n-31
My picture from 1984

The increasing use of road transport was already leading to impressive congestion in the area around the Royal Docks, and these developments were necessary to keep the traffic moving.

[Construction of the London Cable Car began here in 2011 and it opened in 2012. Worth a ride as a tourist attraction it makes no significant contribution to travel in the area. The Crystal, completed in 2012, was commissioned by Siemens and designed by WilkinsonEyre as an exhibition centre and a think tank and since 2022 has been London’s City Hall.]

I’ll post Part 5 Custom House and Canning Town later, again with a few more pictures and comments. You can see the whole walk still on the former London Art Café web site.


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Canning Town & West Silvertown – 2007. Part 1

Canning Town & West Silvertown: Recently I published here a few pictures from a walk in this area in 2006. On 23 June 2007 I led a group visit around the area for London Arts Cafe, LAC, an organisation that ceased to exist a few years later, then devoted to “viewing, expressing and discovering all forms of urban art“.

Although the LAC has long been wound up, I had been responsible for its website, and decided to leave it online – with a clear message that the organisation no longer existed – as a historical record which still contained much interesting material – including the backgrounds of notes that I wrote for the walk I led around the area in June 2007.

As I wrote on My London Diary in 2007, “there was much to look at, including public art, relics of the docks and the new developments that make this one of the largest of current regeneration areas.”

You can still read the ‘Canning Town Walk (June 2007)’ in full on the LAC web site, beginning here and split into ten sections, each with its own page. You are welcome to print it out and follow it for your own walk around what is still a very interesting area of London, though you will note some changes. Here I’ll include the few pictures from these pages, mainly taken on 21 June on my final planning trip for the walk a few days later with a few others, mainly from the same era.

Bow Creek from Canning Town Station DLR platform

It’s a walk that like many I made in the area was based around the Docklands Light Railway which had made transport to the area much simpler. The area has changed in many ways since 2007, not always as I expected, but I think the walk is still a good guide to the area.


Canning Town Walk (June 2007)

1 Introduction

The walk starts at the top of the stairs leading up from Canning Town Station to the Bus Station.

The DLR runs south, to Beckton and North Woolwich (now to Woolwich Arsenal). At left is the tunnel entrance for the Jubilee Line

You can read this on your way to Canning Town Transport Interchange, served by various bus routes, the Jubilee Line and the Docklands Light Railway (DLR.)

DLR platforms and buses in the bus station at Canning Town

Canning Town is in the London Borough of Newham. The latest census showed the population of Newham to be 61% non-white – the highest proportion for any British borough. 41% of the population are under 24 – the highest figure in England and Wales. It has the second highest proportion in the country of three ethnic groups, Asians, Bangladeshis and Black Africans.

Dockside cranes – the Royal Docks closed to commercial traffic in 1981.

Unemployment in Newham is 6.7%, higher than any London borough other than Hackney. Youth unemployment is particularly high, as is the number of unemployed single parents. Canning Town has in the past been one of the most deprived areas of the borough on most social measures.

Demolition at Pura Foods on Bow Creek in September 2006. Bow Creek runs around three sides of the site

Canning Town has Bow Creek – the lower reaches of the River Lea – at its western edge. The Lea is the traditional border between civilisation (Middlesex) and Essex and when the London Building Act of 1844 proscribed noxious industries from London, a more over the river found a laxer regime.

Demolition of Pura Foods, a noxious edible oils works, was almost complete in 2007

The 1840s were also the age of rail building, and the railway companies saw the potential of this riverside area, known as the Plaistow levels, several miles of empty marsh between Bow and Barking Creeks. One of them bought up the area at a knock-down price, and started making plans for docks that their railway could service.

Tate & Lyle originally built two competing sugar works; later the two businesses joined.

The first major industry to move onto a riverside location was C J Mare’s shipbuilding firm in 1846, soon followed by a glass factory owned by the brothers Howard. In 1852, S W Silver & Co, the Cornhill outfitters, set up a factory on the Thames to make rubber coated garments (an idea they borrowed from a Mr Charles Mackintosh.)


More detail about the Thames Ironworks in the Part 2 of my June 2007 Canning Town walk document which will be a later post.


One of the best-known businesses in the area was the ship-builders Thames Ironworks who were founded to take over Mare’s several sites in the area in 1857. They were the last of the London shipbuilders, specialising in their later years in building warships and mail steamers. The company finally closed in 1912-3, but the football club set up by managing director and philanthropist Arnold Hills for its workers in 1895 had changed its name in 1900 to West Ham United.

Last week I was pleased to attend the opening of a heritage pavilion, the Boat House, at Cody Dock on Bow Creek, which uses the fully restored Frederick Kitchen lifeboat as its roof. This is thought to have been the last craft completed by the Thames Ironworks in 1913.

More detail about the Thames Ironworks in the next part of my June 2007 Canning Town walk document.


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Stratford & Silvertown – 2006

Newham

Stratford & Silvertown - 2006
Canary Wharf and the Millenium Dome from Silvertown

Stratford & Silvertown: One of the shorter posts I wrote on My London Diary was about my trip to Silvertown and Stratford in East London on 21st June 2006. Here it is in full, just as I published it then:

on wednesday 21st i took the DLR to stations in silvertown, taking pictures from the train, the platforms and around the stations. then i went to stratford to make more pictures there.

Stratford & Silvertown - 2006

I left home in mid-afternoon and began photographing from the DLR a little after 4pm. It was a fine day and I was going to join a walk around Stratford in the evening by the Greater London Industrial Archaelogy Society and had a couple of hour before I was to meet with them at Stratford Station.

Stratford & Silvertown - 2006

It was almost a year since London had been awarded the 2012 Olympics and I had made a number of visits to the Olympic area to record it before the huge changes that were about to take place.

Stratford & Silvertown - 2006

The DLR extension to King George V station in North Woolwich had opened in December 2005, but had yet made little impact on the surrounding area. Construction had already begun on its extension under the River Thames to Woolwich Arsenal which opened in January 2009.

Stratford & Silvertown - 2006

The line is largely elevated on a concrete viaduct which gives extensive views of the area. As the trains are driver-less I was able to sit at the front of the train and photograph through the front window. Then the DLR was relatively little used and at least on schooldays there was little competition for the front seats – and I think the train windows were usually cleaner.

Stratford & Silvertown - 2006

Trains on the line were then reasonably frequent so I was able to get off at various stations to walk around a little and then return to the station to continue my journey, including a visit to Lyle Park with views across the River Thames.

The station platforms also provide elevated viewpoints to photograph the area. I went as far as Silvertown station and then made my way back to Stratford.

Here I left the train to join the GLIAS walk around the area to the south of the Olympic site, including the Carpenters Estate, a popular council estate close to the station which Newham were then trying to empty and sell off against local opposition, Stratford High Street and the Waterworks River.

By the time this evening walk ended although it was the middle of June the light was fading, though I think this picture exaggerates this a little.

There are quite a few more pictures on My London Diary, beginning here, but I took many more that day, particularly on the evening walk. Perhaps I will post more from this here some time.


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DLR – Connaught Rd & Bow Creek 1994

DLR – Connaught Rd & Bow Creek 1994. Continuing my panoramic images made along the path of the DLR in July 1994.

DLR, near Connaught Bridge, Custom House, Newham, 1994, 94-721-33
DLR, Connaught Rd, Custom House, Newham, 1994, 94-721-33

The road layout in this area has changed completely since 1994, but you can see at right the DLR Beckton branch going over the concrete lead-up to the Connaught Bridge. I think GATE 30 at extreme left is to the Excel site and the Connaught Tavern is hidden by the trees in the centre of the picture – and so this road was the old Connaught Road which led to the old swing bridge. I think where I was standing is now the middle of a hotel car park.

Bridges, Bow Creek, East India Dock Rd, East India, Tower Hamlets, Newham, 1994, 94-719-61
Bridges, Bow Creek, East India Dock Rd, East India, Tower Hamlets, Newham, 1994, 94-719-61

I moved around a mile and a half west and four stops along the DLR line to Canning Town and one of my favourite areas around Bow Creek, which here does two more or less 180 degree turns before flowing into the Thames. These two ‘bridges’ are a few yards south of East India Dock Road and I think both were built as pipe bridges to carry gas across the river.

Only the brick end supports of first remain on each bank. The metal bridge in the centre of the image is also a footbridge, now painted blue and leading across the river to the ecology park. Just beyond it, almost completely hidden is a third bridge, a long disused rail bridge. At left are the sheds of a timber yard.

DLR, Bow Creek, Wharfside Rd, Canning Town, Tower Hamlets, Newham, 1994, 94-719-52
DLR, Bow Creek, Wharfside Rd, Canning Town, Tower Hamlets, Newham, 1994, 94-719-52

Further East on the East India Dock Road I made this panorama with a sawmill in Wharfdale Road. Beyond that road is a train on the DLR line, and over the top of this you can see the Pura Foods factory on the site where London City Island now is.

DLR, Bow Creek, Wharfside Rd, Canning Town, Tower Hamlets, Newham, 1994, 94-720-31
DLR, Bow Creek, Wharfside Rd, Canning Town, Tower Hamlets, Newham, 1994, 94-720-31

A few yards further east on East India Dock Road gave this view of Bow Creek, curving 180 degrees around Pura Foods. Locals were pleased to see this London City Island factory go as you could smell it across much of Canning Town.

DLR, Bow Creek, Wharfside Rd, Canning Town, Tower Hamlets, Newham, 1994, 94-720-32
DLR, Bow Creek, Wharfside Rd, Canning Town, Tower Hamlets, Newham, 1994, 94-720-32

And a similar view but including a DLR train.

DLR, Bow Creek, Wharfside Rd, Canning Town, Tower Hamlets, Newham, 1994, 94-720-23
DLR, Bow Creek, Wharfside Rd, Canning Town, Tower Hamlets, Newham, 1994, 94-720-23

A few yards away I used a crane to frame the image of Pura Foods on its not quite island site. At right of the picture is a bridge across the DLR leading to a riverside walk to Canning Town Station. Although I managed to walk across Reuben’s Bridge several times, it has been mainly locked for the last thirty years, despite being a useful short cut to the riverside station entrance.

Apparently it was closed because people were throwing stones from it onto the DLR, and more recently in 2019 a survey determined that it is non-compliant with current Health & Safety Legislation, Building Regulations, British Standards and associated supplementary guidance.

The initial plans were for the riverside walkway to lead all the way to Trinity Buoy Wharf at the mouth of Bow Creek – and a competition was held and awarded for a new footbridge to enable this – but then the plans were dropped. Until a new bridge was built for London City Island the riverside entrance to Canning Town station only led to two dead ends.

More to come.


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Panoramas Around Albert & Victoria Docks – 1994

Panoramas Around Albert & Victoria Docks: More panoramas I made in July 1994 on and around the Beckton Extension of the DLR, getting off the train at each stop, taking a walk around and making a few pictures before boarding the train again

DLR, Roundabout, Royal Albert Way, West Beckton, Newham, 1994, 94-718-33
DLR, Roundabout, Royal Albert Way, West Beckton, Newham, 1994, 94-718-33

One of the few pictures I made with a deliberate tilt of the camera in order to get the whole circle of the roundabout in the image. As you can see this results in a curved horizon.

DLR, Albert Dock, West Beckton, Newham, 1994, 94-719-11
DLR, Albert Dock, West Beckton, Newham, 1994, 94-719-11

The DLR stations on the elevated line often provided a useful viewpoint. Along the horizon here at left you can see the church at Silvertown, then the Silvertown Flyover. Around the centre are the mills on Royal Victoria Dock, then the more distant Canary Wharf and past that the Grade II listed 1881 Connaught Tavern. At right is the Compressor House, built in 1914 as a cold store for the dock.

DLR, Albert Dock, West Beckton, Newham, 1994, 94-721-22
DLR, Albert Dock, West Beckton, Newham, 1994, 94-721-22

A view through the front window of a DLR train which shows the Compressor House next to the Royal Albert Dock Station and the long stretch of the Royal Albert Dock. At the left are the houses of West Beckton. At right is London City Airport with a couple of planes.

DLR, Connaught Crossing,  Custom House, Newham, 1994, 94-721-42
DLR, Connaught Crossing, Custom House, Newham, 1994, 94-721-42

A view from the side of the train as it goes across Connaught Road looking over the recently built cable stayed swing bridge with reinforced concrete approach viaducts, opened around 1990. It replaced an earlier swing bridge built in 1904 to carry both the road and the North Woolwich Railway across the Connaught Passage between the Royal Victoria and Royal Albert Docks. The small octagonal building to the left of the bridge pumps water from the Connaught Tunnel, originally by hydraulic pumps but now by electric pumps. This was replaced by a larger circular structure when the tunnel was rebuilt for the Crossrail.

DLR, Victoria Dock Rd, Canning Town, Newham, 1994, 94-718-53
DLR, Victoria Dock Rd, Canning Town, Newham, 1994, 94-718-53

The DLR line runs beside Victoria Dock Road and this picture was made from Custom House Station and shows the junction with Freemasons Rd. Further along Victoria Dock Road you can see The Missions to Seaman Institute, Flying Angel House, built in red-brick Art Deco style in 1936. It closed in 1973 and after being used for some time as a college was converted into flats.

Royal Victoria Dock, Canning Town, Newham, 1994, 94-718-41
Royal Victoria Dock, Canning Town, Newham, 1994, 94-718-41

The western end of Royal Victoria Dock which closed in 1981. This picture was taken roughlky from where the cable car ride now has its northern terminal. The dockside sheds have been replaced by tall waterside blocks – around 17 storeys. There are still some of the old cranes on the quayside.

More panoramas from 1994 to follow.


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More From Beckton, Cyprus and Silvertown – 1994

I spent a long day in July 1994 travelling up and down the recently opened Beckton Extension, taking some pictures from the trains but also getting off at every station and explouring the area around the stations, sometimes at some length. The previous set of pictures, DLR – Beckton Extension – 1994, began from around the end of the line at Beckton, and these images start with those from a walk from the next station along, Gallions Reach.

In the 2000s there was a plan to extend the DLR from here to Dagenham Dock, but these were cancelled in 2008; now plans have been approved for an extension to a Beckton Riverside station and on under the Thames to Thamesmead.

DLR, Roundabout, Woolwich Manor Way, Cyprus, Newham, 1994, 94-716-13
DLR, Gallions Roundabout, Woolwich Manor Way, Cyprus, Newham, 1994, 94-716-13

From the Gallions roundabout you can go north and south along Woolwich Manor Way or take the more recent roads, Royal Albert Way, Royal Docks Road and Atlantis Avenue. My picture was made from Woolwich Manor Way looking roughly north. In the centre of the roundabout is a pumping station, which I think is a 16-sided building, though I always lose count. On top in its centre is a small 8 sided pimple. Locally listed, it was built for Thames Water in 1974.

Ruins, Beckton Gas Works, Beckton, Newham, 1994, 94-717-61
Ruins, Beckton Gas Works, Beckton, Newham, 1994, 94-717-61

Beckton Gas Works were built on the East Ham Levels from 1868-1870 by the Gas Light and Coke Company which had been founded in 1812 by Frederick Albert Winsor and was not only the UK’s first gas company but the first public gas company in the world. It was for some years the largest gas works in Europe and until 1969 produced gas for industry and homes across much of East London.

The site was named Beckton after then company chairman Simon Adams Beck and covered a huge of 550 acres. As well as giving room for the huge works, its site on the Thames well to the east of London meant that larger colliers could bring coal to it than to the gas works closer to the city.

As well as town gas, the site also contained the Beckton Product Works which became the largest UK manufacture of tar and ammonia by-products. Beckton was a huge local employer, providing jobs for as many as 10,000 men.

For many years after it closure the site remained derelict and was used in a number of films, most notably Stanley Kubrick’s Vietnam War film ‘Full Metal Jacket’. Back in 1994 there was little left on the site which is now largely a retail park.

I’d taken a few pictures in the area in black and white and colour ten years earlier when more of the works where still there – such as this one:

Beckton Gas Works, Beckton, Newham, 1984 81-NorthWoolwich-008
Beckton Gas Works, Beckton, Newham, 1984

[If you open the image you can browse a few more on Flickr.]

Royal Docks Rd, Galions Reach, Newham, 1994, 94-717-52
Atlantis Avenue, Gallions Reach, Newham, 1994, 94-717-52

A view made from underneath Gallions Reach Station looking roughly north-east towards the former gas works site.

DLR, Approaching Woolwich Manor Way, Cyprus, Newham, 1994, 94-717-43
View from Gallions Reach DLR, Station, Atlantis Avenue, Gallions Reach, Newham, 1994, 94-717-43

I went up to the station platform and made this picture as I waited for a train to arrive. At right you can see the Thames Water pumping station in the middle of the Gallions roundabout. On the left others waiting on the platform can be seen in a mirror. Beyond that is the Royal Albert Dock and in the distance the hills on the other side of the Thames. In the sky is a plane shortly after take-off from London City Airport.

DLR Station, Beckton Park, Beckton, Newham, 1994, 94-717-31
Beckton Park Station, DLR, Beckton, Newham, 1994, 94-717-31

I can’t remember if I got off the train first at Cyprus station or continued directly to the next stop, Beckton Park. The two stations are fairly similar and both are in the centre of roundabouts in the Royal Albert Way, built for the LDDC and opened in 1990.

DLR, Royal Albert Dock, West Beckton, Newham, 1994, 94-717-11
DLR, Royal Albert Dock, West Beckton, Newham, 1994, 94-717-11

I got back on a train to go to the next stop on the line, Royal Albert, where I took a walk around the area beside Royal Albert Dock dock, making this picture from its west end looking east down the dock. In the distance is a DLR train approaching and to the left is the road leading the the Connaught Bridge. I think the brick structure at left of picture is a ventilator for the railway tunnel below.

Connaught Bridge, Royal Albert Dock, West Beckton, Newham, 1994, 94-717-12
Connaught Bridge, Royal Albert Dock, Silvertown, Newham, 1994, 94-717-12

I made this from a temporary footpath across the channel between the Royal Victoria and Royal Albert Docks a few yards to the west of the Connaught Bridge. Under the bridge is the full 1.75 miles of the Royal Albert Dock, built in 1875-80 and opened by the Duke of Connaught. The dock finally closed to commercial traffic in 1981.

In 1984 I got permission to go onto the site and photograph the remaining buildings – virtually all now demolished. They had no great architectural value but were an important part of London’s history. You can see some of the black and white pictures I took in the book The Deserted Royals – there is a good preview with over 40 pictures on the website and the PDF version is reasonably priced – and rather more, including colour work on Flickr – in the two albums 1984 London Photographs and 1984 Docklands Colour.

More Docklands colour from 1994 in my next post in this series.


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DLR – Beckton Extension – 1994

DLR – Beckton Extension: One of the earliest projects I had used a panoramic camera on was the building of the Docklands Light Railway Beckton extension which had been a part of a transport show at the Museum of London in 1992. I had made these pictures on black and white film – you can view these along with many other pictures in my Flickr album ‘1992 London Photos‘

DLR, Train, Station, Beckton, Newham, 1994, 94-715-11
DLR, Train, Station, Beckton, Newham, 1994, 94-715-11

So when the Beckton branch from Poplar opened at the end of March 1994 I made a note to myself to return there and make more panoramas along the completed route, but this time working in colour. But I was busy with other things and it was only in July 1994 that I finally managed to go and take some new pictures.

Station Entrance, DLR, Beckton, Newham, 1994, 94-715-13
Station Entrance, DLR, Beckton, Newham, 1994, 94-715-13

I began by taking a DLR train to the end of the line, Beckton Station, and then walked out to make a few pictures in the area surrounding the station.

Horses, sculpture, Brian Yale, Beckton Bus Station, Woolwich Manor Way, Beckton, Newham, 1994, 94-716-62
Horses, sculpture, Brian Yale, Beckton Bus Station, Woolwich Manor Way, Beckton, Newham, 1994, 94-716-62

I’d first visited Beckton in 1981, and had gone back briefly when I was working on the DLR construction in 1982, but by 1994 things were very different to my first visit. Then Beckton was still a largely uninhabited area, noted for its gas works – then mainly in ruins and for being at the end oof London’s Northern Outfall sewer.

Station Entrance, DLR, Beckton, Newham, 1994, 94-716-51
Station Entrance, DLR, Beckton, Newham, 1994, 94-716-51

There had also been a large postwar prefab estate, but that had been swept away and plans to build large council estates to help solve Newham’s huge housing problems were swept away with the advent of the London Docklands Development Corporation, who sold off most of the land for private housing. The LDDC also commissioned the Horses sculpture by Brian Yale, who had worked for many years as an artist and environmental designer for the architecture department of the Greater London Council, creating “designing murals, sculptures, public art works and play spaces for GLC housing estates and schools“. He was also commisioned by them to produce the long 50 panel The Docklands Frieze at Prince Regent Station.

Robert, Steam Engine, Winsor Terrace, Beckton, Newham, 1994, 94-716-32
Robert, Steam Engine, Winsor Terrace, Beckton, Newham, 1994, 94-716-32

Robert, a 0-6-0 tank engine was built in 1933 for the Staveley Coal and Iron works and worked in their sidings until 1969. It then went to various preserved railway sites, at one of which it gained its name. Kew Bridge Steam Museum in 1993 restored it to look like a Beckton Gas Works engine (presumably for the LDDC) and it was placed here. After some vandalism Newham Council took Robert over and moved it close to Stratford Station. The engine was again moved during building works assocatied with the 2012 Olympics and finally came back to a different location outside Stratford Station in 2011. It was still there when I last went to Stratford a few weeks ago.

Beckton, Newham, 1994, 94-716-43
Beckton, Newham, 1994, 94-716-43

I took a long walk around Beckton, and made quite a few normal format images in black and white, but relatively few colour panoramas, mainly close to the station, then walked rather futher around the area making more panoramas, only relatively few of them on-line at Flickr – two of those in this post are online for the first time including ‘Link Road, Beckton’ below.

Link Road, Beckton, Newham, 1994, 94-716-11
Link Road, Beckton, Newham, 1994, 94-716-11

I this was part of one of the ring road schemes around London that was never built, Ringway 2, which was planned go under the River Thames at Gallions Reach in a new tunnel between Beckton and Thamesmead. When I made this picture it simply came to a dead end not far on.

More panoramic pictures from around the DLR Beckton branch in a later post.


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Clock House to Olympic Site – 2005

Clock House to Olympic Site: Thursday October 27 2005 was a fine late autumn day and I decided to go for a bike ride, putting my folding bike on a couple of trains to my start point, Clock House station. This is in south east London, halfway between Penge and Beckenham and just inside the London Borough of Bromley.

Big Party, Clockhouse

The Chaffinch Brook runs close by and joins with the River Beck to form the River Pool (aka Pool River) a mile or so north and a footpath going north from there is now part of a national cycle route. Parts of the Pool River which were once culverted have now been restored to an open stream, which will help prevent flooding downstream. The river’s main claim to fame is that four years after my ride then London Mayor Boris Johnson fell into it on an official visit to encourage volunteers who were cleaning the river up.

Big Pipes, New Beckenham

The Pool River is a tributary of the River Ravensborne and I had planned to continue along this as closely as I could to Deptford Creek where it joins the Thames. But I ran out of time, so took the Docklands Light Railway at Lewisham rather than Greenwich to cross the river to Canning Town.

Lower Sydenham

My ride then continued with a loop around Bow Creek and over the Lower Lea Crossing back through Canning Town and on to Stratford Marsh where work was then just beginning to turn this whole area into the Olympic site.

Bell Green

It wasn’t a long ride – probably around ten miles in all, perhaps a little longer with all the small diversions I took. All the pictures here were taken on this ride and there are more on My London Diary, along with the account below that I wrote back in 2005. As usual I’ve made a few small corrections.


Pool River and Ravensbourne (left) join

The Brompton folding bike is really an ideal form of transport for London, an essential tool for the urban photographer. It’s short wheelbase is great in slow-moving crowded traffic, and it can be folded in 15s to travel by tube, rail, taxi or even bus. [I’ve never put mine in a taxi.] The only problem is that they are highly prized by cycle thieves. [They are fairly expensive and slip easily into a car boot.]

Bridges over Bow Creek, River Lea, Canning Town, London

The weather forecast was for a fine summery day, so I took the opportunity to check up on a few things and fill in some little gaps, where I’d not quite managed to photograph things before. First I wanted to go along the footpath at Bell Green, next to Sainsbury’s, so I decided to make a slightly longer trip of it by starting at Clock House Station. There is a good, almost traffic-free route north from there along the Pool River, then the River Ravensbourne, at times surprisingly rural.

DLR viaduct over Bow Creek

Taking photographs slows you down, as does stopping to sit in the sun and eat sandwiches, so at Lewisham I decided to get on the DLR with the bike to travel to Canning Town.

DLR extension, Millenium Dome and Canary Wharf from Silvertown Way.

Perhaps one day the riverside walkway by Bow Creek from the station will open [it did, but only to go across a new bridge to City Island – the route south still comes to a dead end], but it seems unlikely to be in our lifetime. I went round the creek, over the Lower Lea Crossing and on to Silvertown Way to see how the new stretch of DLR was progressing. [It opened north of the river at the end of 2005.]

Car sales, Stratford Marsh

Then I cycled up to Stratford to take a look at Stratford Marsh again before work starts in earnest to demolish the existing businesses and create the Olympic waste. It was getting later and noticeably darker by the time I was there, although the day felt like summer, it gets dark rather earlier at the end of October.

The Greenway goes under the railway line on Stratford Marsh.

What really makes no sense at all is to put our clocks back to make it even darker still, as we were going to do in a couple of days time. If I were in charge, we’d move to the same time as France and the rest of our neighbours across the channel. I don’t like dark mornings, but it would be much better than having it get dark in the middle of the afternoon in winter. Orcadians or even Scots would be welcome to have their own time zone if they really must, but its about time they stopped imposing it on the rest of us. The sun set around 5.30, and next week that means it will be 4.30pm.

Twilight for Stratford Marsh

More pictures start here on My London Diary.


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Limehouse and East India – 1994

Limehouse and East India: I spent most of Saturday 11th June 1994 wandering in the area between Limehouse, Blackwall and the former East India Docks, concentrating on making panoramas, some of which were the post Limehouse, Poplar, Blackwall and East India Panoramas – 1994 but I also took a number of black and white and colour images. You can find more of both in two Flickr albums – links at the bottom of this post – but here is some of the colour work. These pictures will have been made using an Olympus OM$ camera on Fuji film. I carried a range of lenses from 21mm to 200mm, though probably most all were taken with 28mm or 50mm lenses.

Limehouse Link Tunnel, Aspen Way, Poplar, Tower Hamlets, 1994, 94-61-55
Limehouse Link Tunnel, Aspen Way, Poplar, Tower Hamlets, 1994, 94-61-55

The eastern entrance to the Limehouse Link Tunnel which was officially opened in 1993. Both portals have decorative sculptures, this one an untitled abstract by Nigel Hall which I find it hard to find any point in. The 1.1 mile tunnel took 4 years to build and cost £293,000,000 making it the most expensive road scheme in Britain per mile.

Limehouse Link Tunnel, Three Colts St, Limehouse, Tower Hamlets, 1994, 94-61-44
Limehouse Link Tunnel, Three Colts St, Limehouse, Tower Hamlets, 1994, 94-61-44

This is the Limehouse Link Eastern Service Building. With a huge volume of traffic passing through the tunnel presumably the main service needed is ventilation and those chimneys presumably are on top of huge fans for the purpose, sharing the pollution with the community.

St Dunstan's Wharf, Dunbar Wharf, Narrow St, Limehouse, Tower Hamlets, 1994, 94-61-33
St Dunstan’s Wharf, Dunbar Wharf, Narrow St, Limehouse, Tower Hamlets, 1994, 94-61-33

The story of Dunbar Wharf is told on the Isle of Dogs Life web site in the article Dunbar Wharf and the Remarkable Story of Duncan Dunbar, and I’ve written more about it in previous posts. Duncan Dunbar made a fortune as a brewer and wine merchant and on his death in 1825 his son, also Duncan Dunbar used this to set up a large shipping fleet, becoming one of the richest men in Britain.

As well as goods to and from the world Dunbar’s shipping line made 37 trips carrying convicts to Australia and were troopships for the Crimean War. He never married and had no children and on his death in 1862 the ships were all sold and the business closed.

The buildings here date from the mid 19th century and are Grade II listed.

London Art Fashions, Limehouse, Tower Hamlets, 1994, 94-61-34
London Art Fashions, Limehouse, Tower Hamlets, 1994, 94-61-34

I think this was the window of a tailor’s shop in Limehouse, but cannot recall its exact location. The caption I gave it came from the black and white poster at the back which I suspect is from the 1920s or 30s, though I’m certainly no fashion expert, while the blue framed image at lower left looks to me a little older and has an interesting lady golfer.

Chinese Restaurant, Limehouse, Tower Hamlets, 1994, 94-61-23
Chinese Restaurant, Limehouse, Tower Hamlets, 1994, 94-61-23

Limehouse and Poplar used to be London’s Chinatown before that moved to Soho, and some traces remain, rather more back in 1994 than now. On the wall is a calendar for the ‘Year of the Dog’ and a notice informing us that:

‘*WE NOW SELL
‘CHICKEN’ BALLS’ IN BATTER
PLEASE ASK STAFF
£2 A PORTION THANK YOU’

The two green hexagons floating in the centre close to the top of the picture (with some more very faint and above them to their right) are photographic artifacts, lens flare, images of the lens iris reflected from some interior lens surface from a light source just outside the frame. But I rather like the effect here.

Hairdresser, Limehouse, Tower Hamlets, 1994, 94-61-24
Hairdresser, Limehouse, Tower Hamlets, 1994, 94-61-24

Looking through a window into a hairdressers with a red-edged counter and mirrors, red chairs and red towels hanging on hooks seen in the mirror. It wasn’t possible for me to get enough depth of field to make everything in the picture pin sharp, but this perhaps makes the mirrored image stand out a little more.

East India Dock Tunnel, Aspen Way, Poplar, Tower Hamlets, 1994, 94-61-51
East India Dock Tunnel, Aspen Way, Poplar, Tower Hamlets, 1994, 94-61-51

The lane closer to the centre of the image dives here into the East India Dock Tunnel with the red brickwork of the tunnel mouth at the right of the picture. The tunnel was opened in 1993. At the left is Canary Wharf Tower, then in isolation, in front of it the bridge and red tower of East India DLR station. The rather depressing 1990 ten-storey granite clad post-modern office blocks on the site of the main East India Dock have now been comprehensively redeveloped mainly for residential use and rebranded as ‘Republic’.

Canary Wharf, DLR, Power Station, South Bromley, Tower Hamlets, 1994, 94-61-53
Canary Wharf, DLR, Power Station, South Bromley, Tower Hamlets, 1994, 94-61-53

Further east also looking back to Canary Wharf from underneath the DLR viaduct with the former switchgear house of Brunswick Wharf Power Station at right. Planned in 1939 but not built until after the war this was a coal fired power station on the site of the East India Export Dock. In 1948 the dock was filled in but post-war financial constraints meant the power station was only became operational in 1952, and finally completed in 1956.

In 1970 it was converted to burn oil, probably to reduce air pollution in London. Increases in oil prices later made this one of the more expensive generating stations and it was closed in 1984 and sold for redevelopment in 1987.

Most of the power station was demolished in 1989 but this building remained, I think until around 2005 when it was demolished for a large residential development, Virginia Quays, which has on the riverbank the 1951 Grade II listed Virginia Quay Settlers Monument.

My 1984 albums on Flickr:

1994 London Colour
1994 London Photos (Black and White)


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All photographs on this page are copyright © Peter Marshall.
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