St Pauls and around Guildhall – 1994

St Pauls and around Guildhall: More panoramas from my days wandering the City of London in July 1994. Most of these pictures are in my Flickr album 1994 London Colour.

Cathedral Steps, St Paul's Churchyard, City, 1994, 94-706-12
Cathedral Steps, St Paul’s Churchyard, City, 1994, 94-706-12

I took relatively few pictures of St Paul’s Cathedral, and here it is only visible in deep shadow at right. In the centre are the rather bland blocks of Juxon House, built in 1963 rather a long time after much of the area was destroyed by German bombs and subject to a long campaign (with Royal support) for demolition along with others when Paternoster Square was redeveloped.

Unfortunately its replacement – and Juxon House was worse. Icannot better the description by Jonathan Glancey in The Guardian when the new block was completed in 2003 who called it “A mockery of the language of classical architecture, this Paternoster office block is kitsch writ gross, a kind of two fingers up to Wren and Hawksmoor, who worked so hard to create the peerless dome and west towers of St Paul’s.” In his article he also gives some of the reasons that led to this new carbuncle.

Aldermanbury, City, 1994, 94-707-42
Aldermanbury, City, 1994, 94-707-42

The area around the Guildhall was fascinating in many ways in the 1990s, in part for its contrasting architectural styles which you can see here. At left is One Love Lane, a 1989 building refurbished in 2015-6. In the centre is the back of One Aldermanbury Square, built for Standard Chartered Bank in 1990, but significantly remodelled after they left in 2013. The Insurance Hall, 20 Aldermanbury, has the inscription by its door ‘THIS BUILDING WAS OPENED BY HIS MAJESTY KING GEORGE V ACCOMPANIED BY HER MAJESTY QUEEN MANY ON THE TWENTY EIGHT DAY OF JUNE MCMXXXIV THE TWENTY FIFTH YEAR OF HIS MAJESTY’S REIGN’. It was home to the Chartered Insurance Institute until 2018.

Guildhall Piazza, City, 1994, 94-707-32
Guildhall Piazza, City, 1994, 94-707-32

Looking towards the The North Wing (formerly known as the North Block) of the Guildhall, constructed in 1955-58 to a 1930s design by Sir Giles Gilbert Scott. At right is the back of the Insurance Hall. At left the 1972 sculpture ‘Beyond Tomorrow‘ by Karin Jonzen (1914-1998); her parents were Swedish but she was born in London and studied at the Slade.

The piazza was a pleasant place to sit on sunny days and I sometimes ate my sandwiches there. The back of the North Wing and that end of the piazza were modified around 2006 to improve access and create more office space.

Beyond Tomorrow, Karin Jonzen, Guildhall Piazza, City, 1994, 94-707-31
Beyond Tomorrow, Karin Jonzen, Guildhall Piazza, City, 1994, 94-707-31

A closer view of Karin Jonzen’s sculpture and beyond it one of my favourite modern London buildings, the Grade II listed former exhibition hall, magistrates court and offices at 65 and 65a Basinghall Street designed by Richard Gilbert Scott (1923-2017) of Sir Giles Gilbert Scott, Son and Partner and built in 1966-69. He was the “fourth generation of Britain’s best-known architectural dynastyaccording to the listing text, which for once is very informative about the architect and the building.

As the listing says, his “stylish use of pre-cast concrete shell vaulting at the Guildhall was a response to the existing Gothic architecture of the site” – where he had been involved with his father Sir Giles in rebuilding the bomb-damaged Gothic Guildhall.

Bassishaw Highwalk, Basinghall St, City, 1994, 94-707-11
Bassishaw Highwalk, Basinghall St, City, 1994, 94-707-11

Just to the north, seen from the Highwalk just as it emerges from under Richard Gilbert Scott’s building is one of my favourite views in the City, again showing different architectural styles.

At left is 55 Basinghall St, City Place House, a substantial post-modern building from 1988-1992 by Swanke Hayden Connell. Work began on its demolition in 2021 for the building of a 13-storey office block by Allies & Morrison, which also involved the “partial demolition, reconfiguration and refurbishment of the basement, lower ground, ground and mezzanine floors of 40 Basinghall Street” – City Tower in my picture.

Basinghall St, Bassishaw Highwalk, City, 1994, 94-707-22

A second view from another section of Highwalk shows the same corner looking along Basinghall Street.

More from this part of the City in a later post.


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Freedom to Film & World March for Peace – 2009

Freedom to Film & World March for Peace: On Sunday 18th October 2009 I went to Dalston to support a Hackney education charity whose students have been harassed when making films in public places and then joined a small march in the UK which was part of a worldwide humanist movement for peace.


Ridley Road Market: Worldbytes Defends Right to Film

Freedom to Film & World March for Peace - 2009
Halal butcher in Ridley Road market, Dalston

Worldwrite is a Hackney-based education charity founded in 1994 which gives young people free film and media training supporting them to produce alternative programmes for broadcast on WORLDbytes, the charity’s online alternative Citizen TV channel Worldbytes.org. You can read more about them on the web site where you can also see a very wide range of their videos, though I couldn’t find anything now on this 2009 event.

Freedom to Film & World March for Peace - 2009

In 2009 their teams were “finding it increasingly difficult to film in public places in Hackney: security guards, community wardens and self-appointed ‘jobsworths’ are refusing us ‘permission’ to film on many of our streets.”

Freedom to Film & World March for Peace - 2009

As they stated, “There is in fact NO LAW against filming or taking photographs in public places and permission or a licence is NOT required for gathering news for news programmes in public spaces.

Freedom to Film & World March for Peace - 2009

They had called for photographers and film-makers to go along and take pictures in support of their protest and I went to do so at Ridley Road Market in Dalston, where Worldbytes crews had been told they can’t film there, not by the stall holders or other market users, but by employees of Hackney Council.

Freedom to Film & World March for Peace - 2009

I went there to support them and the right to photograph in public places, but also because I wanted to photograph the market. I had previously taken a few pictures there but only as I was passing and had not seriously photographed the market.

After talking to the Worldwite protesters I set about walking up and down the market taking photographs of the buildings and people, particularly some of the stallholders. As well as my post on My London Diary, I wrote about the event at greater length here on >Re:PHOTO a few days later. Here’s a short section of text from that article:

I took some general views without asking anyone for permission, but as usual, where I wanted to take pictures including stallholders or other people I asked if I might. Not because I need to, but out of politeness, and I shrugged my shoulders and moved on if they refused. Of course at times I photograph people who don’t want to be photographed, but this wasn’t appropriate here.”

As I was using flash most of the time, it was clear that I was taking pictures and some people asked me to photograph them who I might otherwise have walked by. At one place I did stop to argue after having been refused – and eventually managed to get permission to take a picture; at another I got profuse apologies from an employee who was obviously sorry that the stall owner had decided not to cooperate with Worldbytes.

“The council employees didn’t turn up to stop filming while I was there; probably Sunday is their day off. But it’s very hard to understand why Hackney Council should allow or instruct their employees in this way. They should know the law after all.”

My use of flash – generally as a fairly weak fill-in – was deliberate to make sure that people knew I was taking photographs, though in some cases it helped with the pictures. After I’d spent around twenty minutes obviously taking pictures I was interviewed by the Worldbytes crew, though I rather hoped they would cut that from their video of the day.

My London Diary : Ridley Rd Market: Worldbytes Film Protest

Re:PHOTO: Worldbytes Defend the Freedom to Film


World March For Peace and Nonviolence

The World March For Peace and Nonviolence had begun in New Zealand on the 140th anniversary of Ghandi’s birth, October 2, 2009. It involved events around the world which ended at Punta de Vacas in the Andes Mountains in Argentina on January 2, 2010, where Silo (Mario Luis Rodríguez Cobos) the founder of the Humanist Movement launched a new campaign for global nuclear disarmament in September 2006.

Volunteers from a base team of around a hundred went from New Zealand to Japan, Korea, Moscow, Rome, New York, and Costa Rica, attending events organised along the way to Argentina.

In London the march began with a vigil close to the Northwood Permanent Joint Forces / NATO Headquarters in Middlesex on Saturday morning, with speeches by World March UK co-ordinator Jon Swinden, Sonia Azad of Children Against War and organiser Daniel Viesnik, who also read out a message of support from John McDonnell MP.

Only around 50 people walked the whole way, but there were others around the world also marching. On the second day in London they began at Brent Town Hall in Wembley Park and I met them as they arrived at Marble Arch. They stopped for lunch at Speaker’s Corner where they then took part in the interactive play ‘Let The Artists Die’ on themes of peace, non-violence and the power of the imagination. It was written and directed by Charlie Wiseman who was also one of the three main actors.

They walked past the front of the US Embassy to the memorial to the British victims of 9/11 in Grosvenor Square, where it stopped to pay its respects. In Mayfair it was almost halted when a taxi driver deliberately drove into one of the marchers, but they continued to Trafalgar Square.

‘Heritage wardens’ stopped the march as it came down the steps in Trafalgar Square, telling them they could not walk through the square as they had not applied for permission.

After resting for a few minutes on the steps the march went around the side of the square and down Whitehall past “the Old War Office, and then the statues of famous generals outside the “Defence Ministry” (governments were more straightforward with language in the past)” and “the fortified gates of Downing Street and on to Parliament Square, where the march stopped at the permanent peace protest by Brian Haw there since 2 June 200l with the help of his supporters.”

I left the marchers there but they continued on to end at the Peace Pagoda in Battersea Park.

More pictures at World March For Peace and Nonviolence.


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Southwark Housing, Bermondsey Panoramas & Rembrandt Against Shell – 2014

Southwark Housing, Bermondsey Panoramas & Rembrandt Against Shell: On Thursday October 16th 2014 I went with housing campaigners on a march to Southwark Council Offices. They claimed that the council leader and other councillors and officers have accepted gifts and jobs from developers and were selling off council estates at knockdown prices. I had some time free after that and took a short walk along the Thames making some panoramas before rushing to the National Gallery where the Art Not Oil coalition were protesting outside a gala evening for special guests including unethical sponsors such as Shell.


CPOs for Southwark Councillors

Elephant to Southwark Council Offices

Southwark Housing, Bermondsey Panoramas & Rembrandt Against Shell

Housing campaigners from Southwark were joined by members of the Focus E15 Mums ‘Housing for All’ campaign at the base of the Strata Tower at Elephant and Castle, a tower nicknamed ‘The Razor’ for its three entirely decorative ‘greenwash’ rooftop wind turbines – which cannot be used as they generate unacceptable vibration for the upper floor flats.

Southwark Housing, Bermondsey Panoramas & Rembrandt Against Shell

Facing them was One The Elephant, then under construction, a 44 storey block of luxury flats with no social housing, being sold abroad, with ‘studio flats’ starting at around £320,000 or 640,000 Singapore dollars.

Southwark Housing, Bermondsey Panoramas & Rembrandt Against Shell
Roy Bard speaks outside the sales gallery for Lend Lease’s Elephan Park development

They marched to protest briefly at the Elephant Park Sales Office on the Walworth Rd before walking on through the Heygate council estate where over 1200 homes were demolished and the site sold to developers for a knock-down cost – apparently less than the costs of ‘decanting’ the tenants and far below its proper valuation. Despite this leaseholders were only given compensation of around half the true market value of property in the area, forcing them to move out into the suburbs to buy property in far less convenient areas giving them long and expensive work journeys.

Southwark Housing, Bermondsey Panoramas & Rembrandt Against Shell
The entrance to developer Lend Lease’s Heygate (Elephant Park) site

The replacement by Elephant Park means a loss of over a thousand social housing units, with a small number of so-called affordable units at 80% of market rates, still well above what most Londoners can actually afford. The new flats were being sold to overseas buyers in Singapore and elsewhere as second homes, investment properties, homes for wealthy overseas students studying here, buy-to-let etc.

Southwark Housing, Bermondsey Panoramas & Rembrandt Against Shell
Council estates like this are a prime target for developers who can make huge profits if councils get rid of the tenants for them

From there they walked through some of Southwark’s 1930’s and postwar council estates, now seen as prime targets for demolition of social housing. Its replacement with higher density high price ‘luxury’ flats would generate huge profits for the developers (and lucrative rewards for councillors and council officers.)

Marchers at London Bridge Station

The march carried on to a similar area of council properties around Long Lane and Tennis Street where again similar changes – gentrification labelled as regeneration – seem likely, before going through Guy’s Hospital and London Bridge Station to Tooley St and the Southwark Council Offices.

There they held a short rally after which security stopped them entering to hand in letters for Southwark Council Leader Peter John and two other councillors containing ‘People’s Compulsory Purchase Orders‘ for their homes, but after much argument and the presence of police Liliana Dmitrovic of the ‘People’s Republic of Southwark’ and another protester were allowed in. As Southwark residents they argues they had a right to enter the council offices.

They went to reception and asked to see the three councillors and were told to take a seat and wait. They sat there for some time but eventually Stephen Douglas from Southwark Council came to tell them that all three named on the letters were in meetings and unavailable, but promised he would personally deliver the letters. They handed them in to him and left.

More on My London Diary at CPOs for Southwark Councillors.


Bermondsey Thames Panoramas

City Hall to Angel Wharf

I crosssed the road from the council offices and went through the gardens by City Hall to walk by the Thames, going briefly down Horselydown steps just downriver from Tower Bridge onto the foreshore.

I came back up to Shad Thames, a painful pastiche of its former industrial past. Quickly I made my way to the riverside path and walked on, stopping as usual at the footbridge across St Saviour’s Dock to take more pictures.

I walked on in some interesting lighting and got very involved in taking pictures, rather losing track of time. At West Lane I realised I was in danger of arriving late at Trafalgar Square and ran down to the bus stop on Jamaica Road.

Many more pictures – not all panoramic – at Bermondsey Thames Panoramas.


Art Not Oil – Rembrandt Against Shell

National Gallery

The Art Not Oil coalition had earlier gate-crashed the press launch of the Rembrandt exhibition at the National Gallery in a protest against oil company sponsorship of the arts and the privatisation of gallery staffing.

Protesters with banners in front of the Sainsbury wing

I arrived in time to meet them on the steps of St Martin-in-the-Fields just before they marched the few yards to the National Gallery where a gala evening was being held for special guests – including from the sponsors – and highly ranked staff.

They turned down a protest pen the police had set up some distance from the entrance the guests would be using where their protest would not be noticed (what the police call ‘facilitating’ but campaigners know is minimising) and instead protested close to the entrance. Here there were some speeches and a repeat performance of their earlier performance which included a short playlet as well as some specially written songs.

Some of those who appeared at the press launch were professional actors now on stage elsewhere and so there were some changes in the cast. But it was still a very professional performance.

Here is the Art Not Oil statement:

The presence of unethical sponsors like Shell and the contracting of external security firms shows the growing influence the private sector is having over our arts and culture. With its meagre contribution to the gallery, Shell is buying social legitimacy for its dodgy deeds worldwide, including:
- its failure to clean up its multiple spills in the Niger Delta
- its reckless plans to drill in the Arctic for yet more oil
- its tar sands projects in Canada that are undermining Indigenous people's      rights

More at Art Not Oil Rembrandt Against Shell.


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Copyright, McExploitation & The Martydom of Ali – 2006

Copyright, McExploitation & The Martydom of Ali: On Sunday 15th October 2006 I went to look at paintings in the National Gallery. I didn’t take any pictures and I seldom do of the work in art galleries; photography seldom produces decent images of paintings, and other people have done it better than casual exhibition visitors can for reproduction in books, postcards etc that we can buy. And other people holding up phones or cameras repeatedly in front of pictures can be very annoying.

Photographing art work is a skilled job, but I was pleased by a recent UK court decision that made clear it is not one that meets the requirement of originality needed to establish a new copyright, as the aim is simply a mechanical reproduction.

Artworks themselves do have copyright, but this expires 70 years after the death of the artist. So as Picasso died in 1973, his pictures are still copyright until 2043. Of course copyright law is complicated and is different in different countries and nothing that I write should be taken as legal advice!

After that I photographed a protest at Leicester Square outside McDonald’s against their food and in the afternoon went to an annual Muslim religious procession at Marble Arch and on Park Lane. Finally I called briefly at Trafalgar Square where ‘Diwali in the Square’ was just starting. Here with minor corrections is what I wrote about my day in 2006, with a few of the pictures – there are many more on My London Diary.


21st Global Day of Action against McDonald’s

Copyright, McExploitation & The Martydom of Ali - 2006
Protestors outside the Leicester Square branch

Sunday I started off in the National Gallery, looking at the new presentation of their more modern work in ‘Monet to Picasso’. Then it was up to Leicester Square, where I arrived just as the clock was about to do one of its major performances at 12.00. This was also the start time for the demo outside McDonald’s.

Copyright, McExploitation & The Martydom of Ali - 2006

While I was there around 15 people held up banners and handed out leaflets, most of them wearing bright red wigs. The leaflets stated that McDonald’s were only interested in making money, and that the food that they claimed was nutritious was “processed junk food – high in fat, sugar and salt, and low in fibre and vitamins.”

Copyright, McExploitation & The Martydom of Ali - 2006

The leaflet claimed that animals are cruelly treated to produce meat for us to eat and that the workers in fast food industry are exploited, with low wages and poor conditions – McDonald’s have always opposed workers rights and unions.

Copyright, McExploitation & The Martydom of Ali - 2006

As the world’s largest user of beef, McDonald’s are also helping to destroy the planet; each “beef burger uses enough fossil fuel to drive a small car 35km and enough water for 17 showers.” Beef cattle produce large amounts of methane, making a major contribution to global warming, and the company’s largely unnecessary packing involves use of damaging chemicals as well as using up forests and, after use either littering the streets if polluting the land through landfill sites.

For once the police – at least while I was there – behaved impeccably. There were 2 women police there, and they stood and watched; when someone from Macdonald’s came to complain he was informed that people had a right to demonstrate, so long as they did so within the law. A few of the public refused leaflets but most took them. Again a few stopped to argue, rather more stopped to take pictures of the event, and several posed in front of the demo for pictures.

21st Global Day of Action against McDonalds


The Martydom of Ali

Copyright, McExploitation & The Martydom of Ali - 2006
Shi’ites beat their breasts in Park Lane, London

I left the McDonald’s protest after around 45 minutes to have my lunch – sandwiches rather than a Big Mac – and left for Marble Arch where Hub-e -Ali were preparing to celebrate the Matyrdom of Imam Ali which took place in Kufa, Iraq almost 1400 years ago. The Jaloos or procession began with a lengthy session of addresses and mourning. Although I could understand little of what was said, the voices clearly conveyed the extreme emotion of the event, which had many of those present sobbing. There were tears in my eyes, too, partly from the emotion of the event and partly from the incense fumes that were filling the air.

When the Tarboot (ceremonial coffin) appeared, there was soon a scramble to touch it, at first by the men, then later the women were also allowed to come and touch it.

Many of the men then removed their shirts and started Matam, beating their breasts vigorously, many were distinctly red and bruised, and their backs also showed scars.

The procession led off down Park Lane, with the banners and men being followed by the Tarboot, and the women forming the end of the procession.

The women show their grief too.

Many more pictures of the event on My London Diary.


Diwali in the Square

Having taken a few more photographs, I left for home, stopping off briefly at Trafalgar Square to see the start of the Diwali celebrations there. Diwali In The Square was just starting, but I was tired and continued on my way home.

Diwali in the Square


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Land Mines and the Lea Valley – 2006

Land Mines and the Lea Valley: Fortunately these were two entirely separate events on October 14th 2006. The landmines were in Hyde Park in a display by Handicap International and after visiting this I took a walk across the Lea Valley from Holloway to Tottenham and Walthamstow where I was going to collect a set of my pictures which had been on show at Walthamstow Pumphouse Museum. Here is a slightly edited version of what I wrote in 2006 with a few of the pictures from the day – and a link to many more from the walk on My London Diary


Ban Landmines and Cluster Bombs

Handicap International, Hyde Park

Land Mines and the Lea Valley - 2006

Saturday in Hyde Park there were land mines. Fortunately they were mainly carefully marked as well as having been made harmless. For many people around the world they are daily hazard, the deadly and maiming residues of war.

Just as dangerous, if not more so, are cluster bombs. These are produced by the sophisticated weapons industries of many countries including Britain and America, and also used by our armies and air forces, dropped from aircraft or fired as artillery.

Land Mines and the Lea Valley - 2006

Each cluster bomb contains from a dozen to several hundred lethal bomblets, which are distributed over a wide area, intended to kill infantry or guerillas, but entirely indiscriminate in their action. Between 5-30% fail to explode on impact, usually getting buried in soil; those dropped over 30 years ago in Vietnam are still killing and maiming people, especially children, there. Almost 2,000,000 were scattered over Iraq in 2003-4.

Land Mines and the Lea Valley - 2006

I went to Hyde Park to sign the petition organised by Nobel peace prize-winning charity Handicap International to aim for a world-wide ban on these weapons.

Handicap International now has urgent appeals for Gaza, Ukraine and Sudan and invites you to join them in campaigning to “Fully implement the treaties banning landmines and cluster munitions without delay and encourage non-signatory states to sign their petition.”


Tottenham to Walthamstow

Land Mines and the Lea Valley - 2006
This stadium entrance had potential, but I couldn’t get myself into the right mood

After my brief visit to Hyde Park, I was on my way to Walthamstow to collect some of my pictures of the Lea Valley that had been on show at the Pump House Museum, and as it was a nice day, decided to walk the last few miles across the Lea Valley and take a few more pictures.

Land Mines and the Lea Valley - 2006
South Tottenham

I began my walk in Holloway, going post the Emirates Stadium and then across South Tottenham.

In King George V Park I found some graffiti artists at work, and took pictures of a few of the many murals, before heading down the Lea Navigation to Springfield and across to Walthamstow Marshes, a surprising area of open space so near to the centre of a major city.

Then I made my way between reservoir and waterworks to the Lea Flood Relief Channel and St James’s Park, surrounded with remarkably brooding lime trees.

There are many more pictures from the walk on My London Diary, but surprisingly I don’t appear to have taken a picture of the Walthamstow Pumphouse Museum on this occasion. I think I had stopped to take so many pictures on the way that I was in rather a hurry to collect my pictures which had been on show for Open Heritage Day there and get home.

More pictures from the walk on My London Diary


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Deforestation in Tasmania & a Walk in Bethnal Green – 2007

Deforestation in Tasmania & a Walk in Bethnal Green : Australians were protesting outside Australia House against plans for a wood pulp mill to use wood from Tasmania’s ancient forest which had become an election issue there. I left them to go to a guided walk around Bethnal Green led by a friend and author of a new book on the area for which I had provided sixteen photographs. The walk was among the last events arranged by the much missed London Arts Café which ceased activities at the end of 2007, though the web site is still online as a record of some of its life. Here with some small alterations is my 2007 account of the day with a few of the pictures I took.


No Pulp Mill – Save Tasmania’s Wild Forests

Australian High Commission, Strand

Deforestation in Tasmania & a Walk in Bethnal Green - 2007
Tasmanian premier Lennon and Australian PM Howard at Australia House

The cutting down of ancient ‘old growth’ forests is a major political issue in Australia, and no more so than in Tasmania. With national elections announced for Australia on November 24th 2007, logging could play an important part.

Supported by liberal party (Conservative) Prime Minister John Howard and Tasmanian Premier Paul Lennon, a new pulp mill will speed the loss of the old forests, destroying valuable habitats and threatening extinction for unique species such as the Tasmanian Wedge Tailed Eagle.

Deforestation in Tasmania & a Walk in Bethnal Green - 2007

Cutting down the forest will also remove a valuable sink that removes carbon dioxide from the atmosphere (and of course produces oxygen), and pulp processing in the new plant will emit 10 million tons of CO2 a year, as well as discharging 64,000 tons of toxic effluent into the ocean each day.

Deforestation in Tasmania & a Walk in Bethnal Green - 2007

Ironically, part of the pressure for the cutting down of forests comes from the growing business of carbon offsetting. Much of the land currently occupied by the forests will, after the existing ancient forest is cleared, be replanted with trees that will be used to produce an income in carbon offset schemes.

more pictures – no pulp mill – save tasmania’s wild forests


The Romance of Bethnal Green

We had a fine day for our book-related walk around Bethnal Green and a good audience. Our meeting point was the Museum of Childhood, which features in two of my sixteen pictures in the book ‘The Romance of Bethnal Green‘ (ISBN 9781901992748), Cathy Ross, 2007). Our tour took in a number of art shows open in 2007 as well as the buildings in the area.

Deforestation in Tasmania & a Walk in Bethnal Green - 2007

One of my pictures in the book shows the sculpture which was in the space at the front of the museum for many years, and I was surprised to find it now inside, at the rear of the café area, its bronze given a white coating (perhaps so the ice-cream won’t show), and another features some of the panels on the outside of the building about agriculture.

[The museum has since been revamped as Young V&A and was the Art Fund Museum of the Year 2024.]

Deforestation in Tasmania & a Walk in Bethnal Green - 2007

Just down the road we stopped at St John’s Church, its frontage and tower still clearly the work of Sir John Soane, although the rest of the church was remodelled after a fire in the 1870s. Jane Prophet’s ‘heart’ then on show in the organ loft brought back too many memories of my own surgery for comfort, and I quickly left.

We went across the Roman Road and into the library where Foster Spragge is building a cylinder of thousands of used rail tickets. Unfortunately she was at lunch when we were there, and the cylinder was protected by a roll of corrugated paper, though this perhaps improved the photograph.

Down Roman Road we went into IAP Fine Art to look at the work of Maggi Hambling and Chris Gollon, who has been commissioned to produce Stations Of The Cross for St Johns and also a work on Henley for the 2012 Olympics.

Shops on Roman Road

Opposite the former site of Camerawork I talked a little about photography, the Half Moon Photography Workshop, and the work of Jo Spence and Paul Trevor, as well as the decline of Camerwork magazine into the quagmire of theory.

[Camerawork merged in the early 2000s with cinema workshop Four Corners a few doors down the street and after a rebuilding project reopened in 2007 and continues to hold shows continuing the social documentary and community spirit of HMPW.]

Around the corner the Usk Street Estate is a real architectural gem by Denys Lasdun from 1952, looking more modern than many recent developments thanks to a recent refurbishment. Work on the Grade II Listed Sulkin and Trevelyan tower blocks cost £2.8m. These are buildings that perhaps deserve to be better known, certainly some of the more interesting of their era, and perhaps more radical than his later Keeling house (1959) a mile or so away.

I also find Usk Street rather more interesting than the Cranbrook Estate across the road, by Skinner Bailey & Lubetkin (1965) which proves that sticking bilious green rectangles on ugly blocks still leaves them as ugly blocks. At least it provided a refuge for Elizabeth Frink’s Blind Beggar of Bethnal Green when vandalism forced his move from his intended home in the market square.

We took the bus back along Bethnal Green Road to the top of brick lane and walked up to admire Arnold Circus, before visiting Nomoregrey in Redchurch Steet to look at Jock Mcfadyen’s work there – I particularly liked his images of the wide open spaces further east – such as Dagenham, River Road and Showcase Cinema, reminding me of my visits to these areas.

Finally I went to view a projection of photographs by Paul Trevor at Rich Mix, and as I wrote found his fine images were getting rather lost by a poor display – which we later got them to improve.

I first met Paul Trevor many years ago and have long admired his work. He is living evidence to the almost total lack of interest by major British galleries and museums to most British photography. He is a truly inspired photographer who has lived and worked in the east end for years, creating a fantastic stock of images from the area.

More on My London Diary at the romance of bethnal green.


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Caledonian Road, Barnsbury & Lower Holloway – 1990

Caledonian Road, Barnsbury & Lower Holloway continues my walk which began at Kings Cross on Sunday February 11th 1990 with the Kings Cross and Pentonville 1990. The previous post to this was Battlebridge, Canalside and Barnsbury – 1990.

Used furniture, Caledonian Rd, Barnsbury, Islington, 1990, 90-2c-54
Used furniture, Caledonian Rd, Barnsbury, Islington, 1990, 90-2c-54

From Thornhill Square I returned along Bridgeman Road to Caledonian Road, both sides of which are here lined with shops. Almost immediately on the east side of the road I saw this shop selling used furniture (I think it is now an estate agents) with the pavement in front having some of its stock – stacking tubular chairs – in front of a crude partition, at its left a phone card box and in front of that some cabinets used to support the shop’s sign.

The pavements along here are now cleared of clutter.

Sandwich Bar, Fire Escape Specialists, Caledonian Rd, Barnsbury, Islington, 1990, 90-2c-56
Sandwich Bar, Fire Escape Specialists, Caledonian Rd, Barnsbury, Islington, 1990, 90-2c-56

R Bleasdale & Co Ltd, Fire Escape Specialists had a splendid gate advertising their Victorian Metal Design. This was at 394 Caledonian Road where a similar business, The Cast Iron Shop, remained until around 2020, though the gate was long gone, together with the Sandwich Bar.

The sandwich shop also interested me with it with its striped awning and notices, incluind ‘DELICIOUS HOT SALT BEEF’ though I was unable to try it as like most shops then it was closed on Sundays.

Chinese Chef, Restaurant, Caledonian Rd, Lower Holloway, Islington, 1990, 90-2c-42
Chinese Chef, Restaurant, Caledonian Rd, Lower Holloway, Islington, 1990, 90-2c-42

Another window I found of interest, divided into two halgs one of much had four shleves each with two spider plants and above them a net curtain. The left half mixes the reflection of the buildings opposite with the menu, a light fitting, plants and cans of soft drink under a counter inside.

Chinese Chef was on the corner with Roman Way until around 2019

Romeo Trading Co Ltd, Roman Way, Lower Holloway, Islington, 1990, 90-2c-44
Romeo Trading Co Ltd, Roman Way, Lower Holloway, Islington, 1990, 90-2c-44

I walked a few yards down Roman Way to photograph Romeo Trading Co Ltd, making several pictures both in black and white and in colour. I think this is the company founded in 1941 specialising in military surplus clothing and now operating online and in “an impressive 85,000 square foot warehouse“, Romeo House, in Tottenham.

Their former site and more of the street is now occupied by a large block of flats, Roman Court.

Mallet Porter & Dowd, Caledonian Rd, Lower Holloway, Islington, 1990, 90-2c-45
Mallet Porter & Dowd, Caledonian Rd, Lower Holloway, Islington, 1990, 90-2c-45

From Roman Way I photographerd Mallet Porter & Dowd on the west side of Caldedonina Road at 465 made hard-wearing fabric from horse-hair at their premises close to the Metropolitan Cattle Market, used for uniforms and textile products. This building inscribed with their name dates from 1874.

It was disgracefully converted into student housing for University College London by Mortar Developments in 2015, in a development that retained the facade a few feet in front of an unsympathetic modern development to the detriment of both. It was a worthy winner of the 2013 v awarded by Building Design for the year’s worst building. Islington Council had rejected the scheme but this was overturned on appeal.

Salvo, Caledonian Rd, Lower Holloway, Islington, 1990, 90-2c-46
Salvo, Caledonian Rd, Lower Holloway, Islington, 1990, 90-2c-46

Salvo C F S Ltd, Wine & Provision Importers occupied the building immediately south of Mallet Porter & Dowd until it was demolished around 2011. The company was set up by Salvatore Cumbo who owned a pizzeria in London to import Italian food and drink as wholesalers. The company moved here in 1975, and moved out in 2011 to larger premises in Hertfordshire.

The doorway between the two buildings had the number 465 and so was to the Mallet Porter & Dowd building; the free-standing ‘facade’ rather oddly retains its right hand edge of this door. It perhaps led to the offices and the building also had the wider doorway at the right of the picture.

At this point I think I decided to take a little rest and got on the tube. I’d planned to get to Finsbury Park and time was running out. The next in this series of posts will begin with tthe next frame I made which was in Finsbury Park.


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Iraq Oil, Freedom, Rosary Crusade & Parliament Square – 2008

Iraq Oil, Freedom, Rosary Crusade & Parliament Square: Saturday 11 October 2008 was another varied day, beginning with protests against the US grab of Iraq’s oil and tthe increasing control over our lives by governments and corporations. I then photographed a walk of public witness by Catholics in London before going to Parliament Square were I found a number of smaller protests.


100 Days to stop Bush & Cheney’s Iraq Oil Grab!

Shell Centre

Iraq Oil, Freedom, Rosary Crusade & Parliament Square - 2008
A giant Dick Cheney looms over Iraqi Oil outside the Shell Centre

In 1972 the Iraqi government took over Iraqi oil, nationalising the Iraq Petroleum Company which was jointly owned by the world’s largest oil companies, and it provided 95% of government revenue.

Iraq Oil, Freedom, Rosary Crusade & Parliament Square - 2008

Many of us thought that the main reason behind the 2003 invasion of Iraq was to get the country to hand over most of the oil reserves to foreign companies, particularly Shell and BP.

In 2007 the US-backed Iraqi cabinet had approved a new oil law, strongly opposed by Iraqi trade unions and oil experts, but driven by expert consultants supplied by the UK and US who previously worked at a high level for companies like Shell and BP which would give the foreign oil companies control over oil production and in 2008 the Iraqi Oil Ministry began to announce contracts with former partners in the IPC, ExxonMobil, Shell, Total and BP as with Chevron and others.

Iraq Oil, Freedom, Rosary Crusade & Parliament Square - 2008

The protest came at the start of the final 100 days of President Bush’s administration in the US and was organised by ‘Hands of Iraqi Oil’, a coalition whose members include Corporate Watch, Iraq Occupation Focus, Jubilee Iraq, PLATFORM, Voices UK, and War on Want and supported by the Stop the War Coalition and others.

Iraq Oil, Freedom, Rosary Crusade & Parliament Square - 2008

The samba band, brass band, ‘oil workers’ and others came to protest at the Shell Centre with a giant figure of US Vice-President Dick Cheney and a mock oil well as well as some with Iraqi flags.

I left them shortly after they set off to march first to protest outside BP’s headquarters in St James’s Square and then on to the US Embassy to go to New Scotland Yard.

Bush & Cheney’s Iraq Oil Grab


Freedom not Fear 2008

New Scotland Yard

Freedom not fear 2008 was an international protest in over 20 countries against excessive surveillance by governments and businesses, organised by a broad movement of campaigners and organisations.

A camera behind this person dressed in a sinister black suit and hood

The main UK event was a protest outside the Metropolitan Police headquarters, New Scotland Yard, then still in Victoria Street, Westminster. The protest was against the restriction of the right to demonstrate under SOCPA, the intimidatory use of photography by police FIT squads, the proposed introduction of ID cards, the increasing centralisation of personal data held by government, including the DNA database held by police, the incredible growth in surveillance cameras, ‘terrorist’ legislation and other measures which have affected our individual freedom and human rights.

The protest was within the area where restrictions on protests were introduced by the Serious Organised Crime and Police Act 2005 (SOCPA) which required the protesters to have given written notice to the Commissioner of the Metropolitan Police six days in advance for the event. But of course they had not as a part of the protest.

Police tried hard to give protesters SOCPA notices telling them that the protest was illegal but few took them or any interest in them. Some of the officers joked with the protesters who included People in Common and FitWatch, but sensibly they did not attempt to break up the protest or make any arrests, or at least not in the three-quarters of an hour or so I was present.

Freedom not Fear 2008


Rosary Crusade of Reparation

Westminster Cathedral

Young girls in white communion dress walked beside the statue of Our Lady of Fatima

I walked the short distance along Victoria Street to Westminster Cathedral where people were gathering for the Rosary Crusade of Reparation. This began in Austria in 1947 as a campaign by a Franciscan priest to free the country from communist control, and is said to have played a part in the Russian decision to allow Austria its independence in 1955.

THe first annual procession with the statue of Our Lady of Fatima took place in 1948 in Vienna on the feast of the Name of Mary, Sept 12th. This feast was set up by Pope Innocent XI in 1683 after Turkish invaders surrounding Vienna were defeated by Christian armies who had prayed to the Blessed Virgin.

Families at the front of the large crowd in the procession

The procession in London takes place on the nearest Saturday to the final appearance of Our Lady at Fatima in October 1917, close to the end of the First World War, when those present saw the sun dancing around in the sky, and she promised peace and an end to war if men showed contrition for their sins and changed their lives.

This was the 25 annual procession in London and had as its special theme atonement for the Human Fertilisation and Embryology Bill then passing through Parliament.

I photographed the start of the procession which was making its way slowly to Brompton Oratory.

More at Rosary Crusade of Reparation.


Parliament Square

I’d gone to Parliament Square to look for a two-man protest by the two Bens from the ‘Still Human Still Here‘ campaign dedicated to highlighting the plight of tens of thousands of refused asylum seekers who are being forced into abject poverty in an attempt to drive them out of the country. The two men had spent two weeks in a tent in the square living on the emergency rations that the Red Cross will supply to these inhumanely treated asylum seekers.

In the square I found a number of other protests taking place. Of course Brian Haw was there – as he had been for over 7 years – and I saw him being insulted by a man who smelled strongly of alcohol. There was a small group of Tamils who told me that they were part of a campaign giving out leaflets all over the centre of London about the ethnic cleansing taking place in Sri Lanka. Another small group, ‘London Against Detention’, was campaigning to close down Asylum detention centres.

In the corner close to the statue of Churchill was a man who told me he had been on hunger strike for two weeks in a protest to get his case properly investigated. He claimed to have been abused by police and social services following an incident in which as a seven year old child in Llanelli he was implicated in the death of a baby brother.

Finally I saw another group of people hurrying along the street opposite towards Whitehall carrying posters. I chased after them and found that they were Obama supporters hoping to persuade Americans they met to register and vote in the US election.

More at Parliament Square.


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Uganda, Green Belt, Olympic Site – 2008

Uganda, Green Belt, Olympic Site: Thursday 9th October 2008 was Uganda Independence Day and I began work at a protest at the Ugandan Embassy in Trafalgar Square against the persecution of gays in that country. In Parliament Square I met protesters who had come from Dorset to bring a petition against a proposed new town on Green Belt land on the outskirts of Bournemouth and Poole. Then as I had a few hours before a meeting it was an opportunity to take another walk to see what I could by then of the fenced off Olympic site.


Demonstration Against Ugandan Human Rights Abuse

Ugandan Embassy, Trafalgar Square

Peter Tatchell of Outrage! and Davis Makyala of Changing Attitudes in the demo outside Uganda House

As I wrote in 2008, “October 9 is Uganda Independence Day, but for gay Ugandans in particular there is little to celebrate… “Homosexuality is illegal in Uganda and the penalty can be imprisonment for life, and gay rights campaigners have been imprisoned and subjected to torture. The Ugandan Anglican church is a leading force in anti-gay campaigns.”

The Ugandan government intimidates and tortures gay people and excludes them from healthcare. British arms exports have been used against protests there, killing at least three demonstrators by 2008.

Kizza Musinguzi who was jailed and tortured in Uganda receives the 2008 Sappho in Paradise book prize

Ugandans fleeing the country because of persecution and seeking asylum in the UK were among those forcibly sent back to the country without proper consideration of their cases under our “fast-track” process which was later declared unlawful.

Emma Ginn of https://medicaljustice.org.uk/ Medical Justice

The LGBTQ rights situation in Uganda is now even worse following the passage of ‘the Anti-Homosexuality Act, 2023, which prescribes up to twenty years in prison for “promotion of homosexuality”, life imprisonment for “homosexual acts”, and the death penalty for “aggravated homosexuality“.’

More on My London Diary at Ugandan Human Rights Abuse.


Green Belt Protest Rally

Westminster

People from villages on the outskirts of Bournemouth and Poole had come to protest against the proposed Lychett New Town on Green Belt land in Dorset.

Apparently Hazel Blears, Secretary of State, had told Dorset County Council it must build a New Town at Lytchett Minster with over 7,250 houses in the Green Belt around Poole & Bournemouth, and local residents had set up a campaign about it.

Octavia Hill had first proposed the idea of green belts in 1875 but it was the 1947 Town and Country Planning Act which allowed local authorities to set them up and they were further encouraged to do so by Tory Housing Minister Duncan Sandys in 1955. The idea was to put an end to the unplanned sprawl of ribbon development along major roads leading out from all our cities and provide areas for local food growing, forestry and outdoor leisure.

As I commented, “it has made a valuable contribution to improving the quality of life in our towns and villages and to conserving the countryside.” But as I also wrote, “Many of us feel that the whole of the current planning structure works against sensible and ecological development, but the answer to this is not to relax planning controls but to bring in improved – and in some respects tighter – controls.”

Unfortunately the changes announced by Labour in 2024 which include some Green Belt being re-classified as ‘Grey Belt’ seem largely intended to make things easier and more profitable for developers.

Consultations took place in 2025 over proposals for Lytchett Minster & Upton in the Dorset local plan which lists opportunity sites for over 5000 new homes – and a new petition was set up opposing them.

Green Belt Protest Rally


Stratford Marsh (Olympic Site) & Hackney Wick

Looking towards the main stadium in left half of picture, along what was once Marshgate Lane.

It has always been an interesting walk through Stratford marsh on top of the Northern Outfall sewer, although rather more so in the past when there were so many places one could leave it to explore further rather than coming up against the big blue fence.”

Bridge over City Mill River from the Greenway

I commented back then of my annoyance at the statements made by the Olympic authorities that after the Olympics they would be opening up the previously inaccessible area to the public. In fact they were destroying the area where it had always been interesting to wander along the various largely riverside footpaths – many of which had been cleared to make them easier to walk in the 1990s.

Work by Hackney Wick’s most prolific artist

You can see many pictures that I took in the area on my Lea Valley website And as a replacement we now have a park which seems rather arid. Perhaps by 2112 it might look better.

Foarmer Permanite Works

In 2008 most of the Olympic area was fenced off, but I enjoyed the walk along the ‘Greenway’ on top of the Northern Outfall Sewer to Hackney Wick where I dound much to interest me and “taking the train back from Hackney Wick to Stratford there were many signs of fairly frenzied activity visible.”

Wanted – Laura Norder – $5oo Reward – advertising an art fair at Decima Gallery in Hackney Wick

Many more pictures, particularly around Hackney Wick at Stratford Marsh (Olympic Site) & Hackney Wick.


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Battlebridge, Canalside and Barnsbury – 1990

Battlebridge, Canalside and Barnsbury continues my walk which began at Kings Cross on Sunday February 11th 1990 with the post Kings Cross and Pentonville 1990.

Battlebridge Basin, Pentonville, Islington, 1990, 90-2b-11
Battlebridge Basin, Pentonville, Islington, 1990, 90-2b-11

Battlebridge Basin on the Regent’s Canal was opened at the same time as the Camden Town to Limehouse stretch of the canal in 1820, though the buildings around it took a couple of years longer to complete. In 1815 the landowner William Horsefall contracted with the canal company to allow them to dump the soil extracted from the Islington Tunnel a short distance away on his land, and he used this to form the basin.

It seems odd that you should need earth to form a basin, but it was needed to raise the ground level around it as part of the 480ft by 155ft basin is above the level of the streets around. Horsefall got an Act of Parliament to fill the basin with water from the canal and by 1822 it was surrounded by industrial premises, including timber yards. Among later occupants were W J Plaistowe & Co, jam, marmalade and preserve makers, here until 1926, and at Albert Wharf on the northeast corner were Cooper & Sewell (c1847-1880) and J Mowlem & Co (c1880-1922).

The best-known building on the basin was the warehouse built around 1860 by ice-cream maker Carlo Gatti to store ice brought from Norway, which since 1992 houses the London Canal Museum. In a Key Stage 2 teaching resource on their site is an excellent plan showing the uses of the different areas around the basin in the late 19th century.

Unlike other canal basins in London this was privately owned, known first of all as Horsefall Basin, then Maiden Lane Basin before taking its current name – the old name for the Kings Cross area, which had a bridge over the River Fleet. There seems to be no agreement as to which battle this was named after but few beleive the popular legend it was fought by Boudicea. In 1978 a group of boat owners came together so set up moorings here which over the years since have developed into a substantial marina.

Mercantile House, All Saints St, Pentonville, Islington, 1990, 90-2b-14
Mercantile House, All Saints St, Pentonville, Islington, 1990, 90-2b-14

My previous post on this walk showed an overall picture of Mercantile House and gave a little of its history. In 1990 the whole site was undergoing redevelopment as you can see in pictures below. Mercantile House was retained.

All Saints St, Pentonville, Islington, 1990, 90-2b-13
All Saints St, Pentonville, Islington, 1990, 90-2b-13

I photographed Bartlett Ltd, Export Packers in 1979 from the canal towpath and wrote a little about Battlebridge Basin and Bartlett’s works then and wrote:

Although many of the canal-side buildings in the area have been replaced, a warehouse on the basin of Bartlett Export Packers survives in greatly altered form as Albert Dock. The works buildings in this picture, at the end of New Wharf Road, have been replaced by those of Ice Wharf, three blocks with 94 apartments in a highly regulated private development with 24 hour concierge service and a private, gated underground parking space where a 2 bed flat overlooking the canal could be yours for only £1,195,000.

Demolition of the buildings on All Saints Street whichg meets New Wharf Road at its west end provided me this view of part of Bartletts from here.

Regent's Canal, View West, from, Caledonian Rd, Pentonville, Islington, 90-2c-64
Regent’s Canal, View West, from, Caledonian Rd, Pentonville, Islington, 90-2c-64

From Thornhill Bridge on the Caledonian Road over the canal I could see the cleared development site and, in the distance St Pancras Hotel, the Post Office Tower and other buildings. At the left are the back of buildings on Caledonian Rd.

Regent's Canal, View West, from, Caledonian Rd, Pentonville, Islington, 1990, 90-2c-65
Regent’s Canal, View West, from, Caledonian Rd, Pentonville, Islington, 1990, 90-2c-65

A second view west from Thornhill Bridge includes Bartlett’s water tank and canalside buildings.

Thornhill Crescent, Barnsbury, Islington, 1990, 90-2c-52
Thornhill Crescent, Barnsbury, Islington, 1990, 90-2c-52

I walked on north up Caledonian Road to Thornhill Crescent at the northern end of Thornhill Square, once of the well-known Barnsbury Squares, though it certainly is not square – together they are more of an oval, narrowing towards the southern end. Wikipedia calls it “an unusual large ovoid ellipse“.

Much of the land around here was owned by the Thornhill family who had come from Yorkshire and let to dairy farmers. George Thornhill began Thornhill Square in 1847, and Samuel Pocock, one of those rich farmers began Thronhill Crescent around 1849.

Lived in at first by prosperous middle class households, the area became run-down by the middle of the last century with many properties in multiple occupation and high levels of street crime. But Islington became fashionable in the 1960 and 70s and gentrification led many of those living to purchase the freeholds and the area went upmarket. Some flats now sell for over a million pounds and entire houses over two million.

More from Barnsbury in the next post in this series.


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