Point Pleasant and the Thames – 1990

Point Pleasant and the Thames: Continuing my walk on Sunday 4th March 1990 had begun at Clapham Junction in Battersea with St John’s Road & East Hill, Battersea – 1990 and the previous post to this was Yet More Wandle.

Prospect Cottages, Point Pleasant, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3c-43
Prospect Cottages, Point Pleasant, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3c-43

I get a fleeting view of these cottages as my train goes past between Putney and Wandsworth Town at ‘Point Pleasant Junction’ which still connects the National Rail lines with the District Line to Wimbledon. The bridge over the lines was closed in 1987 as unsafe and partly demolished, though the piers remain and the remaining link made bi-directional. It is now only used by excusions and some empty trains – but I was on a train that took this route during an emergency deviation quite a few years ago.

I don’t know how Point Pleasant got its name, though it seems to date back as long as the street existed. Perhaps it was simply lead to a pleasant view of the River Thames.

I think these cottages are present on the earliest maps of the area I have seen from the early years of the 19th century, though its hard to be sure and they may have replaced earlier cottages on the site. Surprisingly the 14 cottages do not appear to be even locally listed.

Works, Point Pleasant, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3c-44
Works, Point Pleasant, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3c-44

But Point Pleasant was long an industrial area. According to Ediths Street’s  Edward Barker set up an ironworks here in 1634 making small articles such as frying pans and to have been a major arms supplier to the Civil War. His site was sold to Gatty and Waller in 1771 and they set up a chemical works distilling vinegar and producing other chemicals.

The Union Brewery opened here in 1820 and closed in 1920. Richard Seligman set up the Aluminium Plant and Vessel Co. a specialist aluminium welding business, on part of the brewery site in 1920 and his works eventually covered most of Point Pleasant, moving out to Crawley in 1952. I think this factory, built in two stages, was a part of those works.

Point Pleasant, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3c-45
Point Pleasant, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3c-45

Redevelopment of the whole area was just beginning in 1990, and although it started well – and even received a Housing Design award in 2005, later developments have been considerably higher and far less sympathetic.

Prospect House, Point Pleasant, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3c-32
Prospect House, Point Pleasant, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3c-32

There is one Grade II listed property in the area, this house built for a local businessman in 1805-6 who probably did enjoy a pleasant view. It is listed as an excvellent example of domestic Georgian architecture. Just down the road is a locally listed pub which I failed to photograph or to visit. Then I think it was then a Watney’s pub, The Foresters Arms, but shortly after, when its resident cat went missing and then returned was renamed ‘The Cat’s Back’. Taken over by Harvey’s in 2011 it is now apparently a pub worth visiting both for the beer and its now quirky interior. Perhaps time for me to revisit Point Pleasant!

River Thames, from, Wandsworth Park, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3c-34
River Thames, from, Wandsworth Park, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3c-34

The riverside view downsteam from close to Point Pleasant. Certainly interesting but I don’t think I would describe it as pleasant. Moorings now obscure much of the view.

Oil Storage tanks, Osiers Rd, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3c-35
Oil Storage tanks, Osiers Rd, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3c-35

The Shell Oil terminal on Osiers Road, an area marked on old maps as a marsh with tidal channels on the corner of the River Wandle and River Thames. Doubtless before Shell it had willows, perhaps harvested for wicker baskets etc.

The site is now crowded with much taller blocks of flats, including a 21 storey tower, with 275 homes. At least it no longer reeks of oil, though I think I could still smell it faintly when I walked around the new riverside path here shortly after it opened.

Still one more set of pictures from this long walk to come.


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Yet More Wandle – 1990

Yet More Wandle: Continuing my walk on Sunday 4th March 1990 had begun at Clapham Junction in Battersea with St John’s Road & East Hill, Battersea – 1990 and the previous post to this was A Wandle Wander – 1990:

River Wandle, The Causeway, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3b-25
River Wandle, The Causeway, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3b-25

I found it hard to drag myself away from this spot on the path beside the River Wandle where the previous post had ended and took several more pictures before moving on, including this one.

Tyres, River Wandle, The Causeway, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3c-53
Tyres, River Wandle, The Causeway, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3c-53

I didn’t move far, just a few yards further on before taking the picture above, which shows the same heap of tyres and the same covered pipe bridge – but from the other side. I think most of these pipe bridges date from the time the east side of the Wandle was occupied by the gas works.

River Wandle, The Causeway, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3c-65
River Wandle, The Causeway, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3c-65

Much of the former gasworks site was then occupied by the concrete plant I wandered back and forth for some time taking pictures and cannot now remember the exact locations as the area has changed so much. This area is now a huge building site with a tall residential tower now going up.

River Wandle, The Causeway, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3c-54
River Wandle, The Causeway, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3c-54

This is where the River Wandle and Bell Lane Creek rejoin, running to the right of this picture into the Thames just a few yards away. The tide was low and you can see there is little or no water running out from the Wandle with all the flow all going down Bell Lane Creek. The Shell Oil Terminal Site was in Osiers Road and this and adjoining sites have now been redeveloped with blocks of flats of various heights, the tallest around 15 storey. One gain from this is that there is now a walkway by the Wandle leading to the Thames; the previous diversion was not without interest – but had an overpowering strong smell of oil.

River Wandle, The Causeway, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3c-55
River Wandle, The Causeway, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3c-55

Here I think I was looking roughly south I think over or through a fence at the north edge of the cement works where there is a cement lorry. I think this may be part of the works, possibly a water intake or perhaps a settling tank for water used for hosing down the lorries and plant, but that is simply guesswork. But as often with my pictures I did record a six-figure map reference – 257752.

River Wandle, The Causeway, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3c-56
River Wandle, The Causeway, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3c-56

Also taken from The Causeway a few feet west from the previous image you can see the gasholder in the background – and at right the railway viaduct.

Finally I dragged myself away from the Wandle and made my way west to Point Pleasant where my next post on this walk will begin, coming back to those oil storage tanks beside the Wandle.


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A Wandle Wander – 1990

A Wandle Wander – 1990: Continuing my walk on Sunday 4th March 1990 had begun at Clapham Junction in Battersea with St John’s Road & East Hill, Battersea – 1990 and the post before this was Court, Citadel, Gas & Brewery – 1990

River Wandle, Armoury Way, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3b-34
River Wandle, Armoury Way, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3b-34

The area between Armoury Way and the River Thames was and still is very much an industrial one. I think most of the pictures in this post, probably including this one were taken from The Causeway, a street that leads from the junction between Armoury Way and Dormay Street, running beside the west bank of the River Wandle. A dead end for vehicles you can walk along it to reach a footpath which leads to the path beside the Thames towards Putney – or if you turn east, to Smugglers Way. Here across the Wandle you can see a cement plant and cement lorries.

Bell Lane Creek, The Causeway, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3c-42
Bell Lane Creek, The Causeway, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3c-42

Bell Lane Creek is the western of two mouths of the River Wandle and I think part of its original course though it was described as ‘a marshy area’ and might have had more channels. It was improved by the addition of a half lock from the Thames in the 1970s and apparently remains navigable from the River Thames an hour or two each side of high tide, though only as far as where I was standing to take this picture, next to a weir. The sluice gates here – which I photographed on another visit – have a bell on them inscribed ‘I AM RUNG BY THE TIDES’. The area to the right of the creek is Causeway Island.

To the left had once been the Wandsworth Royal Laundry and the creek had also extended further west to several wharves.

River Wandle, Railway Bridge, The Causeway, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3b-35
River Wandle, Railway Bridge, The Causeway, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3b-35

Looking south up the Wandle under the railway bridge which carries the line from Reading and Windsor to Waterloo. Above it as left is the giant Wandsworth gasholder.

Railway Bridge, The Causeway, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3c-51
Railway Bridge, The Causeway, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3c-51

The Staines and Windsor line is on a viaduct here, with three bridges. As well as one over Bell Lane Creek and this one, a few yards to the east is one built to carry the lines over the Wandsworth Cut – later called McMurray’s Canal – there is a very clear map from 1891 here.

This quarter-mile long canal was built in 1802 to link the Surrey Iron Railway to the Thames and had an entrance lock from the river a few yards east of the Wandle where the Wandsworth Solid Waste Transfer Station now is. The horsedrawn Surrey Iron Railway, the first public railway ceased operation in 1846 and the canal was sold to the owners of a nearby flour mill.

The mill was later owned by William McMurray who made paper from esparto grass brought from farms owned by his family in Spain and North Africa – and from the docks by barge to his Royal Paper Mills in Wandsworth. After a fire bankrupted the company, the canal was sold to the Wandsworth and District Gas Company in 1910. In the 1930s they filled it in and built over its route.

River Wandle, The Causeway, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3b-23
River Wandle, The Causeway, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3b-23

A rather confusing array of bridges and pipe bridges across the Wandle just to the north of the railway bridge. At right past the parked concrete lorries is the Wandsworth Solid Waste Transfer Station.

Footpath, River Wandle, The Causeway, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3c-63
Footpath, River Wandle, The Causeway, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3c-63

A narrow footpath leads to the section of The Causeway at the west end of Smugglers Way. aAt right is the Waste Transfer Station and just getting into the picture at left a little of a large electrical substation.

River Wandle, The Causeway, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3c-64
River Wandle, The Causeway, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3c-64

And from exactly the same position looking across the Wandle. I had probably intended to produce a panoramic image from these two exposures.

River Wandle, The Causeway, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3b-26
River Wandle, The Causeway, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3b-26

And I too a third picture moving closer to the river at the same location.

I found this a fascinating area and continued to take pictures for some time – and will share a few more in a later post.


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Court, Citadel, Gas & Brewery – 1990

Court, Citadel, Gas & Brewery continues the occasional series on my walk on Sunday 4th March 1990 had begun at Clapham Junction in Battersea with St John’s Road & East Hill, Battersea – 1990. The previous post, Quakers, Beer, a Palace and the Wandle – 1990 had ended with me at the north end of Garratt Lane in the centre of Wandsworth.

Courthouse Community Centre, Garratt Lane, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3b-42
Courthouse Community Centre, 11, Garratt Lane, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3b-42

This was built in 1858 apparently as one of the first courts under the 1846 County Courts Act and is Grade II listed.

It was alleged to be near-derelict in the 1970s when it was first Grade II listed and was handed over to Wandsworth Council, becoming a community centre for the Arndale Estate. Then it became the Wandsworth Museum but that was closed in 2008 to turn it into Wandworth Library. The museum was moved West Hill Library then closed in 2015. In 2014 the council decided to move the library and to sell or let the building . I think it is now offices.

Salvation Army Citadel, Ram St, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3b-43
Salvation Army Citadel, Ram St, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3b-43

I crossed Wandsworth High Street and walked up Ram Street. stopping to take this view of the Salvation Army Citadel, built in 1907, but now replaced in 2008 by a more modern building. Doubtless a much more functional building its rounded lines have nothing of the military features of the old with its castellated tower.

The Wandsworth Gas Company gasholder is no longer visible. Gasholders such as this were still in use for storage and to regulate gas pressure for some years after the changeover to natural gas and the closure of our gas works. Once a common feature of our townscapes, most have now gone, with just a few of the guide frames of particular interest being listed and saved, some converted to contain flats.

I think this one was dismantled around 15 years ago, but at least until recently its base could be seen from the railway line to the north.

Gas Holder, Swandon Way, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3a-54
Gas Holder, Swandon Way, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3a-54

A closer view of the gasholder which clearly shows the three sections which would be lifted up inside each other by the gas as more gas was pumped into the holder (and were known as lifts.) The first ‘telescopic’ gasholder was invented in 1824. This example was built in 1972 and was said to be the largest of its type in the UK. Gas was stored at only a little above atmospheric pressure

Gas Holder, Houses, Barchard St, Ram St, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3b-44
Gas Holder, Houses, Barchard St, Ram St, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3b-44

Controversial plans were approved by Wandsworth council for the redevelopment of the gas works site to include a 29 storey tower – rather taller than the old gasholder. I think that the massive concrete base which held the water to seal the bottom of the gas holder is to be retained to save the huge environmental cost of its removal.

I rather liked the way the old gasholders – here and elsewhere – contributed to the townscape, and they were certainly local landmarks. But the Wandsworth Society and other objectors are correct to point out the main tower block of the development with a height of 29 storeys, “is quite ‘out of context’ next to the River Wandle. The site of the tower cannot be considered to be a ‘town centre’ site nor is it close to a ‘cluster’ of buildings of a similar nature. The application cannot be considered to ‘make a positive contribution to local character and context’“.

Gas Holder, Armoury Way, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3b-31
Gas Holder, Armoury Way, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3b-31

A final picture of the gas holder.

Ram Brewery, River Wandle, Wandsworth High St, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3c-12
Ram Brewery, River Wandle, Wandsworth High St, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3c-12

The rest of the area north of the town centre has also seen massive redevelopment, though at least the major historic elements of the Ram Brewery have been retained – and now contain the Sambrook Brewery.

Here you can see one of the more modern parts of the brewery, which looked more like a chemical plant than how I imagine real beer being made.

The area is now covered by large bocks of around 4-7 storeys and I think the only thing visible in this image that remains is the brewery chimney. There is now a walk alongside the Wandle, but little of interest to see from it.

Ram Brewery, River Wandle, Wandsworth High St, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3c-15
Ram Brewery, River Wandle, Wandsworth High St, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3c-15

Young’s beers are now brewed by Carlsberg Marston’s Brewing Company in Bedford, though they have re-branded them to include London in their names.

River Wandle, Armoury Way, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3b-32
River Wandle, Armoury Way, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3b-32

More from around the Wandle in a later post.


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Quakers, Beer, a Palace and the Wandle – 1990

Quakers, Beer, a Palace and the Wandle: My walk on Sunday 4th March 1990 had begun at Clapham Junction in Battersea with St John’s Road & East Hill, Battersea – 1990 and the previous post to this, St Anne’s and St Ann’s, Wandsworth – 1990, had ended close to Wandsworth High Street where I made my next picture.

Society of Friends, Quakers, Wandsworth High St, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3b-62
Society of Friends, Quakers, Wandsworth High St, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3b-62

My view here today would be very similar. The norices have chanted and at left there is now a large sign QUAKER MEETING HOUSE over much of the area where you can just make out a bricked up window. Even the sign for WINDOVER PIANOS – GRAMOPHONE RECORDS MUSIC – STRINGS AND SMALL GOODS – CASH OR EASY TERMS remains, though perhaps a little less visible. Then and now it is over a branch of William Hill. The bracket for a hanging sign remains empty, but the gatepost at left has gone – replaced further back for a new gate.

The Grade II listed Quaker Meeting house was built in 1778 but later enlarged and this frontage dates from 1927 with later alterations. It is the oldest Quaker Meeting House in London. Unlike much of the old High Street it survived the widening of the road, now a busy part of the South Circular.

Palace Theatre, Gaumont, For Sale, Wandsworth High Street, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3b-63
Palace Theatre, Gaumont, For Sale, 52, Wandsworth High Street, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3b-63

The Palace Theatre was a pupose-built cinema, architect John Stanley Coombe Beard (1890-1970) who designed many cinemas around London. It opened in 1920 and in 1958 was renamed The Gaumont, closing in 1961 and becoming a bingo club and then a church. For sale when I made this picture it was bought for use as a night club, The Theatre. It now has columns at each side of the entrance and houses a gym.

The Brewery Tap, Ram Brewery Tap, Wandsworth High Street, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3b-64
The Brewery Tap, Ram Brewery Tap, Wandsworth High Street, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3b-64

Now called The Ram, this fine 1883 pub building on the corner of Ram Street and with a ram above its doorway at at 68 Wandsworth High Street was still in 1990 the brewery tap for the Ram Brewery. Beer has been brewed here since 1533 and from 1831 by 2006 Young’s & Co who moved out to Bedford.

When I last visited a year or two back the tradition was being continued in the Ram Brewery, now Sambrook’s Brewery – and you can go on tours, even make your own beer there, though I simply enjoyed the Sambrook’s Brewery Wandle, first brewed there in 2008.

You can see the brewery behind the pub in my picture and to the left. This Grade II* building is now ” a premium boutique bowling venue, including traditional bowling, duckpin bowling, electronic darts and shuffleboard under one roof.”

Borrodaile Rd, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3b-66
Borrodaile Rd, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3b-66

I turned south down Garratt Lane and wnet donw an alley leading to The notice tells us that this “122 luxury one and two bedroom flats set in courtyard development, with private parking”, but those were yet to come.

Linstone Court looks to me like 1960s council flats, though many will have been bought under ‘right to buy’ and sold on.

River Wandle, Mapleton Rd, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3b-51
River Wandle, Mapleton Rd, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3b-51

The River Wandle, once an important industrial river, flows underground though the large Southside Shopping Centre south of Wandsworth High Street. I had come down Garratt Lane mainly to see the river upstream from there.

This was the view downstream from Mapleton Road with Wandsworth Medical Centre on the right.

River Wandle, Mapleton Rd, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3b-52
River Wandle, Mapleton Rd, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3b-52

And I think this is the view upstream from the same bridge or possibly the next bridge upstream. There has been considerable building around this area since 1990.

Ram Brewery, Wandsworth High Street, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3b-41
Ram Brewery, Wandsworth High Street, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3b-41


I walked back up Garratt Lane to Wandsworth High Street and made another picture of the Ram Brewery, with its Ram on the weathervane. Then I walked back to Garratt Lane where the next post on this walk will begin.


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St Anne’s and St Ann’s, Wandsworth – 1990

St Anne’s and St Ann’s, Wandsworth: My walk on Sunday 4th March 1990 had begun at Clapham Junction in Battersea with St John’s Road & East Hill, Battersea – 1990 and the previous post, More From Wandsworth 1990, had ended with a distant view of St Anne’s Church.

Houses, St Anne's Crescent, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3a-11
Houses, St Ann’s Crescent, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3a-11

This area was towards the end of the 18th century still farmland, part of the Manor or All-Farthing, a small hamlet to the south of Wandsworth. An 1804 map shows there were still no houses here, only fields around what was then All Farthing Lane. The first houses were built here at the same time as the church, in the 1820s, but these are rather later in the century, probably around 1850.

At left is Surrey House, 6 St Anne’s Crescent. The two large semi-detached houses at 4-10 are shown on the 1873 OS map (on what was then St Anne’s Hill) and locally listed.

St Anne's Church, St Anne's Hill, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3a-12
St Anne’s Church, St Ann’s Hill, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3a-12

St Anne’s was one of five ‘Waterloo Churches’ in the Southwark diocese built “as monuments to the victories at Trafalgar and Waterloo. Building of Saint Anne’s Church began in 1820 and was completed in 1824. The architect was Sir Robert Smirke. The church was consecrated on 1 May 1824 as a chapel of ease to the Parish Church of All Saints, Wandsworth.

Smirke was a remarkably prolific architect and “is known to have designed or remodelled over twenty churches, more than fifty public buildings and more than sixty private houses.” These included seven of the the Waterloo Churches, and he was an official government architect and an adviser to the scheme – the only example of government funded church-building which provided a total of £1.5 million to provide 612 new Anglican churches. It was a huge scheme costing equivalent to more than £125 billion allowing for inflation.

Plowden & Smith, St Anne's Hill, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3a-13
Plowden & Smith, St Ann’s Hill, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3a-13

I walked past the church to St Ann’s Hill (the church is St Anne’s but the street appears to have lost an ‘e’) and north along this. Plowden & Smith at 190-4, was established in 1966 and is a leading provider of art restoration services but they are now based in purpose-built premises on Morden Road, Mitcham. They left St Anne’s Hill around 2018. The building at 190 had previously been a sorting office and is now called Sorting House.

Plowden & Smith, St Anne's Hill, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3a-14
Plowden & Smith, 190, St Ann’s Hill, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3a-14

As well as giving a good view of the frontage of the building I also liked the car parked partly obstructing the large painted sign ‘NO PARKING IN FRONT OF THIS BUILDING’. The development has retained most of the brickwork of the Victorian frontage but with more window area, and behind it and largely unnoticed from street level is a much taller modern structure which includes 9 new flats.

Temporary Housing, St Anne's Hill, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3a-15
Temporary Housing, St Ann’s Hill, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3a-15

As I wrote in an earlier post, “The LCC designed temporary housing together with the Timber Development Association as a temporary solution to the then acute housing problem. I think these may have been replaced by new housing on Malva Close built in 1993.

Designed to last 15 years these homes came as two boxes which were craned onto piles of paving slabs and did not need dug foundations. The two boxes were than bolted together. The walls were asbestos covered with plastic and both roof and floor were made from plywood sheets sandwiching polystyrene insulation. They had a hall, living room, two bedrooms, kitchen and bathroom.”

Many seemed to have found them comfortable and were reluctant to leave, often being rehoused in less convenient locations and in pokier flats.

More to follow on this walk around Wandsworth.


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More From Wandsworth 1990

More From Wandsworth: My walk on Sunday 4th March 1990 had begun at Clapham Junction in Battersea with St John’s Road & East Hill, Battersea and I had continued into Wandsworth with the post Mont Nod and Old York Road – Wandsworth 1990, ending with a view of York Road from the platform of Wandswoth Town Station.

Wandsworth Tyre Service, Old York Rd, Wandsworth Town, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3a-52
Wandsworth Tyre Service, 543, Old York Rd, Wandsworth Town, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3a-52

I didn’t catch a train but came back down the stairs and on to York Road walking west along it. The Wandsworth Tyre Service was on the corner with Tonsley Hill and was one of many shops along the York Road, a kind of minor high street. There are still shops, but their character has changed greatly; this is now Pad Thai Story, the first of three authentic Thai restaurants set up by three Thai friends, here and in Battersea and Hammersmith and apparently highly recommended with, for London, reasonable prices. Back in 1990 I think the culinary peak of Old York Road was probably a fish and chip shop.

Next door, in what was then a doctor’s surgery is now a florist; there are a variety of other food outlets as well as several estate agents and a few more useful shops in a a fairly typical gentrified street.

According to various estate agents, this area, sometimes know as Tonsley for the several streets including this name, is one of Wandsworth’s most sought-after locations. An informative blog tells me “Tonsley Hall, the residence of Sir Richard Blackmore, the physician and poet who died in 1729… was pulled down in about the middle of the nineteenth century” but I cannot find why the house was given the name Tonsley.

The Grapes, Fairfield St, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3a-53
The Grapes, 39, Fairfield St, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3a-53

I walked down to Fairfield Street – the fair field was in the area to the north of Old York Road. Merrie England in the Olden Time published in 1841 states:

 "Wandsworth Fair exhibited sixty years ago Mount Vesuvius,
 or the burning mountain by moonlight, rope, and hornpipe-
 dancing; a forest, with the humours of lion-catching;
 tumbling by the young Polander from Sadler's Wells; several
 diverting comic songs; a humorous dialogue between Mr.
 Swatehall and his wife; sparring matches; the Siege of
 Belgrade, &c. all for three-penee!

 On Whit-Monday, 1840, Messrs. Nelson and Lee sent down a
 theatrical caravan to Wandsworth Fair, and were moderately
 remunerated. But the “Grand Victoria Booth” was the rallying
 point of attraction. Its refectory was worthy of the
 ubiquitous Mr. Epps—of ham, beef, tongue, polony, portable
 soup, and sheep's trotter memory!

 Cold beef and ham, hot ribs of lamb, mock-turtle soup that's
 portable,

 Did blow, with stout, their jackets out, and made the folks
 comfortable!"

But this was perhaps one of the last days of the fair.

The pub is still open and is Grade II listed public house described as an early/mid-19th Century building and so was probably there in the closing years of the fair a few yards away.

Gas Holder, Swandon Way, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3a-54
Gas Holder, Swandon Way, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3a-54

According to the Wandle Industrial Museum, the Wandsworth Gas Company was established at a meeting at the the Spread Eagle Inn in Wandsworth in 1834 and was producing gas by the following year. By the 1920s it had grown into one of the largest London Gas companies, with coal being brought in barges to the canal basin close to the mouth of the Wandle. From 1906 colliers delivered coal to it on the Thames and the company produced some of the cheapest gas in London – making it particularly popular with balloonists.

At nationalisation in 1949 the company supplied an area of 160 square miles and had a fleet of six upriver colliers bringing over half a million tons of coal a year. Gas production ceased in 1970, but the gas holder continued in use for storage for many years.

Fairfield Court, Flats, Fairfield St, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3a-55
Fairfield Court, Flats, Fairfield St, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3a-55

Estate agents variously describe this building as being built between 1930 and 1949 or 1967 to 1975, but whatever its date of completion it was built in a 1930s Streamline Moderne style as my picture shows. Its a style which has attracted a large degree of architectural snobbery over the years, including in the great Pevsner Buildings of England series. I suspect it probably dates from the post-war rebuilding of Wandsworth, but would welcome correction.

Wandsworth Town Hall, Fairfield St, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3a-42
Wandsworth Town Hall, Fairfield St, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3a-42

By contrast, the to my mind rather pedestrian Wandworth Town Hall is both Grade II listed and described in detail in the listing and on other web sites. I think the architectural details are of far more interest than the overall building, built in 1935-7 to the designs of Edward A Hunt. I turned away to the east and didn’t then photograph the south side of the building on Wandsworth High Street, perhaps the buildings more interesting aspect with a fine “bas relief frieze depicting events in Wandsworth’s history by David Evans and John Linehan.”

P G Marshall & Sons, Tonsley Hill, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3a-45
P G Marshall & Sons, Tonsley Hill, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3a-45

One of the main Tonsley streets, this had a particular interest for me, as although there are many Peter Marshalls, some rather more famous than me, this was possibly the first time I had been greeted by my initials when walking the streets of London. So far as I am aware this P G Marshall was no relative. But the business ‘Purpose Made Joinery‘ also had some resonance – among his many trades, before my father became self-employed he had worked as a joiner around 1920 when motor vehicle bodies were still often made of wood.

Of course the coincidence of initials was not the only reason I stopped to take this picture. The railings with their spears beside the steps and the jagged edge above the side gate also appealed.

Gate, Geraldine Rd, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3a-24
Gate, Geraldine Rd, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3a-24

I crossed East Hill and went down Geraldine Road admiring the brickwork and decoration of the house on the corner (my photo not digitised) which I think was then home to the probation service. I think this wrought iron gate was on the detached house on the corner of Eglantine Road which now has a rather different but still attractive fence and gate and the veranda with slim iron columns.

Houses, Geraldine Rd, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3a-25
Houses, Trees, Rosehill Road, Geraldine Rd, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3a-25

On the corner of Geraldine Road and Rosehill Road I found this row of harshly pollarded trees stretching down the road with the tall thin Greek Revival tower of Robert Smirke’s Grade II* listed St Anne’s Church, Wandsworth in the distance down Rosehill Road.

My next post about this walk will begin with two more pictures of this church.


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Mont Nod and Old York Road – Wandsworth 1990

My walk on Sunday 4th March 1990 had begun at Clapham Junction in Battersea and I had ended my first post, St John’s Road & East Hill, Battersea – 1990 next to Trinity Road in Wandsworth.

Huguenot Burial Ground, Mount Nod Cemetery, East Hill, Wandsworth,, 1990, 90-2j-46
Huguenot Burial Ground, Mount Nod Cemetery, East Hill, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-2j-46

From 1562 to 1598 France was at civil war between Catholics, supported by the Catholic League including the Pope and Spain, and Protestants – the Huguenots – whose backers included Protestant England under Elizabeth I. Although Henry IV had become King of France in 1589 after the death of his ninth cousin once removed, Henry III, he was not recognised across the whole country.

Henry IV had been born and baptised a Catholic but brought up a Huguenot, and was the first (and only) Protestant King of France, but under pressure and to be recognised in Paris and elsewhere he converted to Catholicism in 1593, though whether he actually said “Paris is worth a Mass” is thought highly doubtful.

One of his first actions as king was the Edict of Nantes which granted the Huguenots – Calvinist protestants – the right to practise their religion while maintaining Catholicism as the established religion of the country. The Catholic authorities were never happy with the edict and Henry survived several assassination attempt before one succeeded in 1610.

Huguenot Burial Ground, Mount Nod Cemetery, East Hill, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-2j-33
Huguenot Burial Ground, Mount Nod Cemetery, East Hill, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-2j-33

The Edict gave Huguenots religious toleration in certain towns and cities in France and allowed them to play a part in civil society, including holding public office, running their own schools, organising militia, carry out some trades and professions and to travel freely in France – and to avoid the Inquisition when travelling abroad.

Over the years the various freedoms granted by the Edict were lessened and in 1685, Louis XIV, the grandson of Henry IV, renounced the Edict and declared Protestantism illegal in all of France. Ministers were given two weeks to leave the country, while others were prohibited from leaving, though as many as 400,000 did, many coming to England.

Although Spitalfields is well-known for its Huguenot population, others settled elsewhere in London becoming around 5% of the area’s population. And Wandsworth, then a small village on the outskirts attracted some, probably because there were already some French speakers there, running various small industries on the River Wandle as well as market gardens. They became involved in textile mills and as hat and dressmakers, with Wandsowth becoming famous for hat making.

Huguenot Burial Ground, Mount Nod Cemetery, East Hill, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-2j-34
Huguenot Burial Ground, Mount Nod Cemetery, East Hill, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-2j-34

There was religious persecution in England too, although the established church had broken from Rome, but protestants suffered as well as catholics. But it seems that in Wandsworth, French speakers were allowed to set up their own chapel since none of the English would understand their language. A plaque in Chapel Yard suggests that Flemish and French Protestants had set up a house of prayer there as early as 1573, when such chapels were clearly illegal.

The Huguenot Burial Site – also known as Mount Nod Cemetery – between East Hill and Huguenot Place was in use by 1687 and burials continued until 1854. In 1911 a memorial was erected – seen in two of my pictures, remembeing the contribution made by Huguenots to the “prosperity of the town of their adoption.”

The cemetery has recently been given local historic park and garden status has apparently been refurbished, though I’ve not visited it for some years, though I think may do so later this year.

Book House, 45, East Hill, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-2j-23
Book House, 45, East Hill, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-2j-23

This Italianate locally listed building adjioinig the Huguenot Burial Ground was built in 1888 as County House for the Wandsworth District Board of Works. After the Nation Book League moved into it in 1985 it became Book House, and was also home to the Publishing Training Centre. More recently it has been converted into flats.

Houses, Fullerton Rd, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-2j-24
Houses, Fullerton Rd, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-2j-24

I left East Hill and walked up Alma Road; this area was developed between 1865 and 1895, but the north end of the street dates from soon after the Battle of Alma and appears on Stanford’s 1862 map. Alma was the first major battle of the Crimean War, when the British and the French defeated the Russians close to the mouth of the Alma, a small river which flows into the Black Sea not far from Sevastopol. The war dragged on until February 1856.

Fullerton Road crosses Alma Road and I walked a few yards down it to take this picture of a covered motorbike or scooter in front of Rose Cottage, Lansdown House and Gordon House.

Shops, Old York Rd, Ferrier St, Wandsworth Town, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3a-64
Shops, Old York Rd, Ferrier St, Wandsworth Town, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3a-64

Alma Road joins Old York Road opposite Wandsworth Town station and a few yards down to the left Ferrier Street leads off west, with a view of the Wandwworth gasholder. The superstructure of this was demolished I think over 10 years ago, but its base remains, visible from the railway.

Old York Road still exists, although the shops have shifted significantly upmarket and I’ve been to exhibition openings there, and the area around to the north and west is bristling with new towers of flats.

Shops, Old York Rd, Wandsworth Town, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3a-63
Shops, Old York Rd, Wandsworth Town, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3a-63

No trace remains of the HOVIS sign on this house on the corner with Edgel Street and Lawrence’s Shoe Repairs are long gone.

The Alma Tavern, Old York Rd, Alma Rd, Wandsworth Town, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3a-65
The Alma Tavern, Old York Rd, Alma Rd, Wandsworth Town, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3a-65

I went into Wandsworth Town Station and climbed the stairs to the platform to lean over and photograph the Alma Tavern. This was built in 1866 although there appears to be a pub here on the 1862 map. It was acquired by Young’s brewery – nearby in the centre of Wandsworth on the River Wandle – in 1888. Still operated by them it now has a hotel extension on the site of the former 1880s Victorian factory behind the pub in Alma Road, since 1983 occupied by Winstanley Metal Fabrications.

Old York Rd, Ferrier St, Wandsworth Town, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3a-66
Old York Rd, Ferrier St, Wandsworth Town, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-3a-66

Further along the platform I took this view looking along Old York Road. This area along to what is now Swandon Way used to be Fairfield, the site of Wandsworth Fair, discontinued in the 19th century. York Road was once called Pickpocket Lane, then Slough Lane and only relatively recently becoming Old York Road. Much of the area was designated a conservation area in 2019.

My next post on this walk shortly.


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St John’s Road & East Hill, Battersea – 1990

St John’s Road & East Hill, Battersea: My next London walk was on Sunday 4th March 1990 and began at Clapham Junction station, which is not in Clapham but in Battersea. The London and South Western Railway, London, Brighton and South Coast Railway and the West London Extension Railway deliberately chose the misleading name for their interchange station as Clapham was so much more respectable than the rather working-class industrial Battersea and so would be more acceptable to the upper and middle class customers they wanted to use their trains.

Shop window, St John's Hill, Battersea, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-2j-51
Shop window, St John’s Hill, Battersea, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-2j-51

I walked south through the tunnel under the lines inside the station and made my way out to the exit onto St John’s Hill, Battersea, where I found this shop window with an intriguing range of content. at top left are directions ‘IF YOU NEED AN AMBULANCE’ and in the centre’ AND IN THE CENTRE ‘PLENTY OF MEN’S OVERCOATS ALL SIZES FORM £2.50 to £4=’ followed by the opening hours, the days listed in the rather odd order ‘MONDAY THURSDAY SATURDAY TUESDAY WEDNESDAY FRIDAY’.

On the bottom at left is a purse with a chain and then an incomprehensible rectangle, perhaps written in some alien language from outer space. Next is what I think could be a collapsed Japanese-style lampshade and then a 12 inch vinyl record cover for Star Wars and other space themes by Geoff Love and His Orchestra, a 1978 LP. Inside the shop – perhaps a ‘charity shop’ – there appears to be another basket full of what look to me like 78’s, but most of what we can see is reflections of the opposite side of the stree – and my body as I made the photo.

Entrance, Plough Rd, Battersea, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-2j-53
Entrance, Plough Rd, Battersea, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-2j-53

A short distance up the Hill I turned right into Plough Road and photographed this rather strange brick wall with an door-less doorway leading into what looks like a rubbish yard. I carefully lined up a block of flats in the aperture for the picture, but can tell you nothing more about it.

Shops, St John's Hill, Battersea, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-2j-55
Shops, St John’s Hill, Battersea, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-2j-55

Back on St John’s Hill at No 80 was KEARNS ANTIQUE COPIES, since replaced by a larger block, Langford Mews. The two properties with the roof balustrade are still there but the unnamed 76 now has an extra storey. But to my delight, HAPPY VALLEY is still there, looking much the same and still a Fish and Chicken bar. I think this building probably dates from around the 1850s. To its right is another new block with ground-floor retail which has replaced H J Golding & Co Ltd and the building to its right.

Shops, St John's Hill, Battersea, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-2j-41
Shops, St John’s Hill, Battersea, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-2j-41

Shops and houses on the north side of St John’s Hill on each side of Louvaine Rd. These terraces probably date from around 1870 by which time most of the street was built up. The church in the distance, St. Peter and St Paul’s Church (now the LARA community centre and nursery) was built around 1868. These buildings are since 2009 part of the St John’s Hill Grove conservation area.

Brian J Reed, Silverline Press, St John's Hill, Battersea, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-2j-42
Brian J Reed, Silverline Press, St John’s Hill, Battersea, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-2j-42

Two businesses both doomed by changes in technology, with electronic components being replaced by integrated circuts and much of the printing business being transformed by computerisation. The works through the gateway is now part of a Sainsbury’s Local with a shop front a little further up the street.

Gateway, LCC, East Hill Estate, East Hill, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-2j-44
Gateway, LCC, East Hill Estate, East Hill, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-2j-44

Further along the street St John’s Hill becomes East Hill and it was here that the London Country Council built their East Hill estate in 1928, having bought the site five years earlier. These Grade II listed gates date from 1851 and were preserved from St Peter’s Hospital (Fishmongers’ Almhouses) formerly on the site and re-used as the main pedestrian gateway to the new estate. The almshouses had been built to house 42 residents along with a chapel, hall and library and rooms for the medical officer, clergyman and paymaster. They replaced those in Newington, South London dating from 1618.

The 1928 LCC estate was demolished in 1981 and replaced by the more modern flats on the site in my photograph.

Garden, Birdhurst Rd, Trinity Rd, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-2j-45
Garden, Birdhurst Rd, Trinity Rd, Wandsworth, 1990, 90-2j-45

The Trinity Road dual carriageway had started to be planned when Wandsworth Bridge was build in the 1930s as a part of extensive road and motorway schemes which included a real South Circular, but only materialised in the 1960s as a rather forgotten part of London’s Ringway schemes, intended at some date to link up north of the river with the West Cross Route at Shepherds Bush.

Fortunately sanity prevailed and after a few disastrous short sections of road were built most of these schemes were abandoned. I’m unsure when this section of Trinity Road was converted to dual carriageway, going under the A3 and East Hill and the famous square roundabout were built, but I think some time around 1970.

This small garden is immediately north of East Hill on the corner of Birdhurst Road and has now lost all of its railings and is surrounded by a ring of rather delicate-looking metal bollards. A board about environmental improvements has a graphic including Battersea’s most famous building.

More from this walk later.


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An Academy, Shops, a House & Pubs – 1990

An Academy, Shops, a House & Pubs: The final post from my walk which ended in Kentish Town on Sunday February 25th 1990. The first post was Around Finsbury Park – 1990 and the previous post is Factories, Flats, Wesley & The Kinks.

Doorway, Southampton House Academy, Highgate Rd, Gospel Oak, Camden, 1990, 90-2i-46
Doorway, Southampton House Academy, Highgate Rd, Gospel Oak, Camden, 1990, 90-2i-46

Grade II listed Southampton House at 137 Highgate Road was built in the early 19th century and housed the Southampton House Academy run by Captain John Bickerstaffe. The pub adjoining Southampton House is The Southampton Arms, but was built in 1874, and I think took its name from the house, which is now flats. The pub is legendary among beer (and cider) drinkers and apparently only serves beers from wholly independent breweries. I have no idea why Capt Bickerstaffe called his Academy Southampton House, perhaps he was a native of Southampton.

The Orientalist, 78, Highgate Rd, Kentish Town, Camden, 1990, 90-2i-31
The Orientalist, 78, Highgate Rd, Kentish Town, Camden, 1990, 90-2i-31

The Orientalist was a residue from the International Oriental Carpet Centre which I mentioned in my previous post on this walk, where in 1973 Oriental rug dealers moved to Kentish Town from the PLA Cutler Street warehouses. Most moved out of the area in 1994, but some stayed in premises in Kentish Town. The Orientalist rebuilt this building with a more conventional shop front soon after I made this picture and had a closing down sale in 2025.

Shops, Kentish Town Rd, Kentish Town, Camden, 1990, 90-2i-26
Shops, Kentish Town Rd, Kentish Town, Camden, 1990, 90-2i-26

WE STOCK SUPLUS GOVERNMENT CLOTHING NEW & PART·WORN
COMBAT TROUSERS FOR ALL OCCASIONS SHIRTS JACKETS·ETC
ACHOICE OF JEANSFOR ALL·THE.FAMILY STONEWASH·SHRUNK
FOOTWEAR FOR ALL PURPOSES ALSOFULL RANGE DR.MARTENS
INDUSTRIAL CLOTHINGBOILER SUITS BIB-BRACE TEE SHIRTS
SUPPLIERS OF ALL·TYPES OF RAINWEARJACKETSCOATS ETC.
SPECIALISTS IN CAMPATINGEQUIPMENT.THENTSSLEEPBAGGAZ

Who could ask for anything more?

Shops, Kentish Town Rd, Kentish Town, Camden, 1990, 90-2i-11
Shops, Kentish Town Rd, Kentish Town, Camden, 1990, 90-2i-11

‘LOOK IN AT FERME SALES’ states the painting of a man being lifted up by another and pointing with his umbrella on the side of THE BEECH Restaurant – (though why does this have ‘ML’ on its canopy?) This painted has long been painted over and the restaurant is now an estate agents.

The Assembly House, Leighton Rd, Kentish Town Rd, Kentish Town, Camden, 1990, 90-2i-12
The Assembly House, Leighton Rd, Kentish Town Rd, Kentish Town, Camden, 1990, 90-2i-12

Another large late Victorian pub built in 1896 to designs by Thorpe and Furniss in a style resembling a French Château and Grade II listed. It replaced an earlier pub on the site which in 1788 had as landlord Thomas Wood.

The Assembly House was where people gathered to go together across the dangerous hills to Highgate in groups because of the frequent attacks on travellers on the route. Wood possibly moonlighted as a highway robber – apparently he was tried but acquitted for the offence – but he died insane in Newgate Prison.

House, Bush, 27, Leighton Rd, Kentish Town,Camden, 1990, 90-2i-15
House, Bush, 27, Leighton Rd, Kentish Town,Camden, 1990, 90-2i-15

Leighton Road was built at the back of the Assembly House pub garden and this Grade II listed house was built around 1828 when the street was called Gloucester Place. The listing text gives more detail than most, including about the street; “In 1804 it was but a pathway leading from Kentish Town to Islington, with a stile at the eastern end and a bowling green on its north side near where No. 27 Leighton Road now stands; this was probably for patrons of the Assembly House inn located at the corner of Kentish Town Road.” and its early residents; “a Mr Crowe (the original freeholder and builder), and then an architect with family and servants. By 1861, the owner was a Mr Pike, with his family but no servants. Pike made various changes to the house in 1870 … and his story is vividly told in Gillian Tindall’s book, “The Fields Beneath: the History of One London Village“, published in 1977.”

Shops, Torriano Avenue, Kentish Town, Camden, 1990, 90-2j-61
Shops, Torriano Avenue, Kentish Town, Camden, 1990, 90-2j-61

Also the listing text for 27 Leighton Road tells us that “At this time the land was owned by one Joshua Prole Torriano” which explains this street name. In 1990 it was a rather run-down area as this picture suggests. The view here is looking towards from the south towards Leighton Road and the pub on the corner at 140 Leighton Road was the Torriano Arms, closed and sold in 1994 and now residential.

Unusually the pub’s name lived on, being taken over by the Rose and Crown, a few doors down Torriano Aveven. A long fight saved this from being converted in turn into flats. In 2014 the Camden New Journal published “Torriano pub closes but will reopen with its original name as The Rose and Crown”.

I made four more pictures on my way back to Kentish Town station, on Leighton Rd and Montpelier Grove but haven’t digitised these. The pictures in these posts are generally around a quarter or so of those I took on my walks.

My next walk was in South London – coming shortly.


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