Tower House | >Re-PHOTO

Fonthill & Tollington – 1990

Fonthill & Tollington continues my walk on Sunday February 11th 1990 which began at Kings Cross with the post Kings Cross and Pentonville 1990. The previous post was Caledonian Road, Barnsbury & Lower Holloway – 1990.

*Tower House, 149, Fonthill Rd, Finsbury Park, Islington, 1990, 90-2c-32*

The Tower House it at the south end of a late Victorian terrace at 141-9 Fonthill Road close to the junction with Seven Sisters Road. This was the factory and showroom for Witton, Witton & Co. In an advertisement in Musical Opinion & Music Trade Review they describe it as ‘BRITAIN’S FINEST FACTORY’ producing ‘”THE IDEAL BRITISH PIANO” Specially made for Variable Climates’. According to the Pianoforte-makers in England web site the company was formed in 1874, although earlier Wittons had made pianos from 1838. They held two patents related to pianos. The name continued in use after production went abroad in the 1930s. Their grand pianos are said to be not well made.

By 1990 the tower had lost its top floor topped by a cupola. Like much of Fonthill Road the building was mainly in use by clothing manufacturers and wholesalers in 1990.

*Goodwin St, Finsbury Park, Islington, 1990, 90-2c-35*

The 3 storey house in this picture is still present on Goodwin Street, a turning off Fonthill Road which now leads through City North House to Finsbury Park Station. This is 11 Goodwin St, owned by the Trustees of Peace News and the home of CND, the Campaign Against Arms Trade as the hanging sign above the double door indicates, along with various other groups. I think the right hand door was number 13, though the numbering around here seems rather random.

*Shops, Fonthill Rd, Finsbury Park, Islington, 1990, 90-2c-36*

The rather strangely staggered roofline is still there at 138 Fonthill Road and all the shops are still in the clothing trade, though I think all the names are changed. Photographer Don McCullin grew up in the area in the 1940s and described the area as “a battlefield” and later he was to photograph on many real ones, including in Cyprus.

It was the Cyprus emergency with the UK fighting EOKA in the the late fifties and the later war between Greeks and Turks that led to many Cypriots to come to live in North London – and a number of them set up clothing factories and wholesale businesses here – and others from Turkey, the Caribbean and Africa came too. At first shops here were simply wholesale, but then many began to open on Saturdays for retail sales, and the street was crowded with people – mainly women – buying real bargains.

*Fonthill Metal Co, Fonthill Rd, Finsbury Park, Islington, 1990, 90-2c-21*

I don’t think any trace remains of the Fonthill Metal Co or the garage next door on Fonthill Road which were almost at the end of Fonthill Road close to Tollington Park. There used to be many similar small scrap metal dealers who would pay cash on the spot for non-ferrous metals – Copper, Brass, Lead, Zinc and Ali – aluminium.

BRAIZERY here means copper pipes and other material which has been soldered and so contains small amounts of other metals, particularly tin and lead. If you have a decent load of this you can probably get around £6 a kilo for it – but no longer on Fonthill Road.

*Velvet Touch, Fonthill Rd, Finsbury Park, Islington, 1990, 90-2c-22*

Later retail clothes shops elsewhere in the country found they could buy clothing cheaper abroad than garments made in the UK, and manufacturing here started to fall away. Slowly more and more wholesalers welcomed retail customers and many new wholly retail shops opened.

More recently the retail trade has fallen away too as the area becomes increasingly gentrified. Most of the clothes still on sale are now made abroad, particularly in Turkey.

Velvet Touch at 1 Fonthill Road was at the far end to the other clothing manufacturers, wholesalers and importers and although you can still read that line of their shopfront, (rather faded now) their name and the large sign on the side wall are long gone and I think the building is now residential. The very small window on the first floor is still bricked up.

*St Mellitus, RC, Church, Tollington Park, Finsbury Park, Islington,, 1990, 90-2c-23*

Built as the New Court Chapel in 1871 by Congregationalists from New Court, Carey St, Lincoln’s Inn Field after their chapel had been demolished to build the Royal Courts of Justice.

The Neo-classical church, designed by C G Searle seated 1,340 and in the early years was often full in the early years, but after the war congregations dropped away. It was sold to the Catholic Church in 1959, becoming St Mellitus RC Church. St Mellitus was the first Bishop of London in 604CE and later in 619CE became Archbishop of Canterbury.

*House, Tollington Park, Finsbury Park, Islington, 1990, 90-2c-24*

Tollington Park was one of the first streets in this northern part of Islington in Finsbury Park (estate agents like to call it Stroud Green, but that seems rather a stretch too far) to be laid out and its grand semi-detached villas date from the 1830’s and 40’s.

Before that cows had grazed its fields to supply milk to London across north Islington which had what was claimed to be the largest dairy farm in the country, run by Welsh dairy farmer Richard Laycock.

By WW2 the area had deteriorated and become a poor working-class area. It was heavily bombed in WW2 and much still remained in a mess twenty years later. By the 1970s it was home to many migrants from across the world, including “Welsh, Irish, Jamaican, and others from all over the world.”

*House, Tollington Park, Finsbury Park, Islington, 1990, 90-2c-26*

Many of the damaged properties and some others were demolished in 1970 to form a park, Wray Crescent, and gentrification of the area set in. The Friends of Wray Crescent history page contains a number of pictures of Tollington in the 1960s and 1970s, taken by Leslie William Blake when “local campaigners and the Tollington Park Action Group began to fight to preserve some of the buildings, including the creation of the local conservation zone.”

Houses like those in my picture are now all or almost all a number of flats. Only 4 houses in Tollington Park are Grade II listed (along with the two churches) but many are locally listed including these two at 104 and 106, thought to have been built in 1840.

A Walk in London 20 Years Ago

A Walk in London 20 Years Ago; On June 28th 2004 I had an important meeting at one on London’s major cultural institutions. It was a fine day, so I took an early train and then wandered towards the meeting taking pictures.

My walk began at London Bridge Station and I walked towards the River Thames through ‘More London’ a large area to the south-west of Tower Bridge owned and redeveloped by the Kuwaiti sovereign wealth fund’s St Martins Property Group with buildings designed by Foster and Partners architects.

In 2004 this was a recent development and in 2007 it was one of six on the shortlist for the Carbuncle Cup architecture prize, an annual competition by Building Design for “the ugliest building in the United Kingdom completed in the last 12 months“. But it, two other new London developments as well as a Holiday Inn in Aberdeenshire and a high-rise residential tower in Birmingham all lost out to student accomodatiion for Leicester University.

I walked across Tower Bridge and continued into the East End, taking another picture of the Grade II* listed Wilton’s Music Hall entrance in Grace’s Row. In 2004 this was beginning to once again produce a varied range of shows and was internally considerably restored from 2012-5, though I think the doorway still looks much the same.

The music hall was largely destroyed by fire in 1877, but rebuilt and opened as a Methodist mission, The Mahogany Bar. This was an important resource for the local community until it closed in 1956. The building was saved from demolition by a determined campaign supported by Sir John Betjeman, Peter Sellers, Spike Milligan and others and in 1971 was given Grade II* listing and bought by the GLC.

In Dock St, Wapping I photographed the window of a fish and chip shop, The Codfather. I think this is now an estate agents, although there are many other Codfathers around the country.

Emanuel Swedenborg (1688-1772), Swedish inventor, thinker, scientist and mystic lived in this area – then Prince’s Square – and was buried in the churchyard of the Swedish Church here. He had stayed in London for 4 years as a young man and returned here aged 57 where he had a vision of meeting the Lord who appointed him to write to reveal the spiritual meaning of the Bible. He abandoned his other work and over the next ten years wrote his 8 volumes of Arcana Cœlestia.

From 1747 until his death he spent his time in Stockholm, the Netherlands and London, publishing this and another 14 spiritual works in the latter two to avoid censorship by the Swedish Empire. He returned for the last time to London in the Summer of 1771 and suffered a stroke in December. In February 1772 he wrote asking John Wesley to visit him, and when Wesley replied he could not do so for six months he told him that would be too late as he was going to die on March 29th. And he did.

New Road took me north.

Tower House at 81 Fieldgate Street was a superior doss house which provided those staying there with decency and privacy. Jack London stayed there soon after its opening, in 1902 when researching his ‘People of the Abyss‘ and Maxim Litvinov and Joseph Stalin spent some time there when attendeing The London Congress of the Russian Social-Democratic Labour Party – but Stalin soon moved out into private lodgings at 77 Jubilee Road.

It was the fifth of the Rowton Houses to be built in London as “poor men’s hotels” and opened in 1902. It was the first to be lit by electricity. George Orwell described it as the ‘best of all common lodging houses with excellent bathrooms’, though he found some of its rules irksome, particularly that you could not enter your room before 7pm.

Renamed Tower House in 1961 it was acquired by the GLC for Tower Hamlets Council in 1983. Various schemes to adapt in fell though and it was still derelict in 2004. A private developer converted it into luxury flats in 2005-8.

The time for my meeting was approaching and I was having to hurry back into the City, and took only a few more pictures though rather more than I put online back in 2004. This view is of the Alban Highwalk leading off south from Alban Gate, and the tower of St Alban Wood Street as well as the City of London Police building clearly visible.

I think my meeting went well, but a couple of years later I had a great disappointment when the project was cancelled at the last minute.

There are just a few more pictures at More London and more.

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Holland Park, Earls Court & West Kensington: 1987

Melbury Rd, Kensington, Kensington & Chelsea, 1987 87-12c-13-positive_2400 — *Melbury Rd, Kensington, Kensington & Chelsea, 1987*

Grade II listed 18 Melbury Road is now distinguished by two blue plaques, neither of which appear in my picture. Like many houses in this street in Holland Park it was home to a noted artist, in this case William Holman Hunt (1827-1910), one of the founders of the Pre-Raphaelite Brotherhood in 1848. The house was built in 1877, but Hunt only moved here in 1903 and it was here that he died. His widow was still living here when the plaque to him was added to the front of the house in 1923.

Cetshwayo (c.1832-1884) King of the Zulus enjoyed a rather shorter stay, arriving in August 1882 after his defeat and capture in the Anglo-Zulu War of 1879, an entirely uncalled for attack on Zululand by British forces, who at first suffered an ignominious defeat at Isandhlwana before finally winning the war and taking Cetshwayo prisoner. He was brought to London together with his chiefs, where he was welcomed by inquisitive crowds and met with both the Prime Minister and Queen Victoria, and they agreed to re-instate him as King of Zululand, to where he was secretly returned the following January.

His reinstatement did not go well and he returned to a bloody civil war and had to seek refuge in a British reserve. He died, officially of a heart attack, but possibly poisoned in February 1884 and two months later his heir became king. The English Heritage blue plaque commemorating his stay, just above that of Hunt’s was only unveiled in 2006, long after I took this picture.

Tower House, Melbury Rd, Kensington, Kensington & Chelsea, 1987 87-12c-15-positive_2400 — *Tower House, Melbury Rd, Kensington, Kensington & Chelsea, 1987*

In 1875 noted architect William Burges began the building and furnishing of the Tower House in a French Gothic Revival style as his home, but died as it was more or less completed in 1881 and was inherited by his brother-in-law, who later sold it. After several owners and tenants, and Grade I listing in 1949 John Betjeman inherited the remaining lease in 1962, but found the property needed expensive repairs and moved out without extending the lease. He claimed that after this it was deliberately left empty and left it to rot and be vandalised, hoping to be allowed to demolish it and develop the site.

Lady Jane Turnbull bought the house in the mid-60s to save it and began its restoration, selling it to actor Richard Harris for £75,000 in 1969 who continued the work. Three years later he sold it to Jimmy Page of Led Zeppelin (who outbid David Bowie for the property) for £350,000 and Page still owns it and has in recent years carried out a long legal battle with his neighbour Robbie Williams over his plans for underground excavations to develop his property that might threaten the structure of Tower House.

Earls Court Rd, Kensington, Kensington & Chelsea, 1987 87-12c-35-positive_2400 — *Earls Court Rd, Kensington, Kensington & Chelsea, 1987*

Christmas was coming as I took these pictures in December as the multi-lingual messages on The Canning School suggest.

Moscow Mansions, Cromwell Rd, Kensington, Kensington & Chelsea, 1987 87-12c-44-positive_2400 — *Moscow Mansions, Cromwell Rd, Kensington, Kensington & Chelsea, 1987*

Pineapples, brought to Europe by Christopher Columbus soon became a symbol of wealth and status – and were apparently available for hire to be displayed (but now consumed) at posh dinner parties in the 18th century. Only the incredibly rich could afford to eat them at around the equivalent of £5,000 a fruit. And although they are now commonplace in supermarkets and market stalls, back in my working-class youth they only came in tins as rings or chunks. They can be seen on many buildings across London from St Paul’s Cathedral down – and here on the gateposts of Moscow Mansions.

Hoarding, car, West Cromwell Rd, Kensington, Kensington & Chelsea, 1987 87-12c-54-positive_2400 — *Hoarding, car, West Cromwell Rd, Kensington, Kensington & Chelsea, 1987*

The queues of traffic dawdling into London on the A4 were greeted by a car in an unusual parking place on this hoardiing.

87-12c-55-positive_2400 — *Railway, West Cromwell Rd, Kensington, Kensington & Chelsea, 1987*

Looking over a wall or fence you can still see these railway lines, at left is now the London Overground going down to West Brompton Station, but in 1987 this line was only in use for goods trains, with passenger services only being resumed in 1994 and the Network Rail platforms at West Brompton only coming into use in 1999. At lower level is the District Line of the London Underground, coming from Olympia behind me and West Kensington at right. Behind that is the Lillie Bridge Railway and Engineering Depot; missing now from the right of centre is the large bulk of Earls Court Exbition Centre, but the Metropolitan Police tower at right is still present.

87-12c-56-positive_2400 — *Ashfield House, London Underground, West Cromwell Rd, Kensington, Kensington & Chelsea, 1987*

Out of the previous picture to the right is Ashfield House in West Kensington, a block of offices for London Underground, which now includes a mock Underground Station, West Ashfield, used for training purposes. The building was purpose-built for London Underground and opened in 1983. It is likely to be demolished as a part of the redevelopment plan for the area.

Clicking on any of the pictures above will take you to a larger version on my Flickr album 1987 London Photos from where you can browse through over 750 black and white pictures I made that year – these are all on Page 8.

All photographs on this and my other sites, unless otherwise stated, are taken by and copyright of Peter Marshall, and are available for reproduction or can be bought as prints.