St Peter’s to the Thames: The fifth post on my walk which began at Kew Bridge Station on 10th of December 1989. The previous post was Chiswick Waste, Stamford Brook, British Grove & St Peter’s Square.
St Peter’s Church is at the south-east corner of St Peter’s Square on Black Lion Lane and is now uncomfortably close to the Great West Road, this section built well over a hundred years later in the late 1950s. In 1829 the church would have been surrounded by trees, meadows and market gardens with a pleasant walk to the nearby Thames. Now you need to seach for the subway to get across one of the busiest roads out of London.
The architect was locally born Edward Lapidge, whose father was an assistant to Capability Brown as a landscape gardener at Hampton Court. As well as a wider practice he also built other local churches at Hampton Wick and Putney. The Classical church building is Grade II* listed and William Morris who lived nearby had a hand in redecorating its interior in 1887.
This 1959 concrete sculpture by Karel Vogel, (1897-1961) a Jewish Czech-born artist who fled here from the Nazis in 1938, was Grade II listed in 2016. It was commissioned by the London County Council’s Patronage of the Arts scheme when the Great West Road was being built through St Peter’s churchyard in 1959 “provide visual amenity in compensation for” this major road scheme. The sculpture, cast concrete over a metal framework, took Vogel over a year to complete and was extremely controversial in the local area.
By 2016 the sculpture had seriously deteriorated and Radio Prague reported in 2023 on its planned renovation at a cost of over £50,000. The restored statue now looking in grand shape was unveiled in July 2024.
This 1909 building (described by some estate agents as Victorian) has now been converted into ‘exclusive’ flats.
You can see the sign for The Dove pub which has its entrance on the footpath here at 19 Upper Mall. This Grade II listed public house is well worth a visit. It has probably been serving beer since the 1730s and was bought by Chiswick Brewery in 1796. Although a charming enough place its listing probably more reflects its stories and associations rather than any particular architectural merit. Of course as the very detailed The Dove, Hammersmith – a tiny mystery on Zythophile states its popularity has resulted in “most of the “facts” printed about it being demonstrably wrong.”
Also worth a visit is the William Morris Society Museum, just behind me as I made this picture in the lower floor of the house he lived in for the last 18 years of his life, renaming it as Kelmscott House. Doubtless he enjoyed the facilities of The Dove (then called The Doves, apparently by an error of the sign-maker) including the marbles game of bumblepuppy.
This pier is on the corner of Furnivall Gardens. Previously this had been mouth of Hammersmith Creek which ran north as far as King Street. The fishermen here were replaced by noxious industries in the nineteenth century, with brewery malthouses to its west and a lead mill on the east. The creek was filled in by Hammersmith council in 1936 and they built a new town hall across it which opened in 1939 – still there facing the Great West Road.
Wartime bombing removed the Phoenix Lead Mills and the Friends Meeting House with its burial ground and the area was opened as a public park, Furnivall Gardens, named for Frederick James Furnivall, one of the founders of the Oxford English Dictionary as well as Working Men’s College and the Hammersmith Rowing Club (now renamed after him) as well as the probable inspiration for ‘Ratty’ in the Wind in the Willows.
The pier here was opened at the same time as Furnival Gardens in 1951 for the Festival of Britain to enable people from the area to board steamers to take them to the Festival. After the end of the Festival there was little use for it. Eventually the PLA sold it to the owner of the Dove pub, and it was extended to provide more moorings.
Beyond the moorings at Hammersmith Pier – Dove Pier you can see the southern end of Hammersmith Bridge and mansion blocks along Castelnau Road.
More from my walk in a later post.
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