Posts Tagged ‘Chiswick High Rd’

Chiswick Waste, Stamford Brook, British Grove & St Peter’s Square

Monday, February 17th, 2025

Chiswick Waste, Stamford Brook, British Grove & St Peter’s Square: The fourth post on my walk which began at Kew Bridge Station on 10th of December 1989. The previous post was Bedford Park – 1989.

Chiswick Waste, Scrap Metal, Chiswick High Rd, 1989, 89-12b-31
Chiswick Waste, Scrap Metal, Chiswick High Rd, Chiswick, Hounslow, 1989, 89-12b-31

Bedford Park had played an important role in the development of suburban housing for the affluent with the Garden City movement, but after wandering around surrounded by red brick for more than an hour I was glad to get away from it and back to something rather different.

We sometimes think of recycling as being new and green, but it has long been important in our economy. Back in my young days there were ‘pig bins’ for waste food on our street, my father spent half an hour or so neatly smoothing out and rolling our waste newspapers into a neatly tied package to put out on the bin for salvage, and as kids we would eagerly search the neighbourhood for bottles to return to shops and scrap copper, brass, aluminium, lead and zinc to take to our local scrap dealer for pennies. When you only got 6d a week from your parents for pocket money every little helped.

Of course dealers like this one largely worked on an industrial scale – the prices here are in pounds per hundredweight – and a hundredweight was 8 stone – 112 lbs or 50.8 kilograms.

House, Stamford Brook Road, Hounslow, Hammersmith & Fulham, 89-12b-23
House, Stamford Brook Road, Hounslow, Hammersmith & Fulham, 89-12b-23

Stamford Brook is now be called one of London’s “Lost Rivers”. Wikipedia has a lengthy description of its complex courses with at least three sources, its six strands and four mouths into the Thames. When the county of London was carved from Middlesex in 1889 its most western course formed the boundary between the London Borough of Hammersmith and the Middlesex urban districts of Brentford and Chiswick – and since 1965 between the London Boroughs of Hounslow and Hammersmith & Fulham.

One northern part of the river is the Bollo Brook, and some of its water was diverted to the lakes at Chiswick House which still have and outflow to the Thames. But most of the rest of the river had been culverted by 1900, largely becoming a part of London’s sewage system. Hopefully the opening a few days ago of London’s supersewer will end the use of two of the mouths at Chiswick and Hammersmith being storm overlows and discharging untreated sewage into the Thames.

Grove House, 66, British Grove, Chiswick, Hounslow, Hammersmith & Fulham, 1989, 89-12b-14
Grove House, 66, British Grove, Chiswick, Hounslow, Hammersmith & Fulham, 1989, 89-12b-14

British Grove also has a culvert running under it through some of Stamford Brook was diverted. There was a track here from at least the 18th century. The houses on Chiswick High Road immediately west of British Grove, some listed and dating from 1830-40, are named as British Terrace on the 1873 OS Map and British Grove appears as a narrow track along the boundary between Hounslow and Hammersmith & Fulham with houses only on its west side and the name British Grove across the long back gardens of the houses on the west side of St Peter’s Square. It had previously been a southern part of Chiswick Field Lane and

Later parts of those back gardens were built on and Grove House at No 66 appears to date from around 1930. It is now four flats.

Island Records, Royal Chiswick Laundry, British Grove, Hounslow, Hammersmith & Fulham, 1989, 89-12b-16
Island Records, Royal Chiswick Laundry, British Grove, Hammersmith, Hounslow, Hammersmith & Fulham, 1989, 89-12b-16

British Grove has a several small claims to fame. It was here around 1863 that Frederick Walton first made linoleum having taken over the British Grove Works in 1860 from rubber manufacture Richard Beard. Unfortunately Walton’s works burnt down in 1862. They were insured and were rebuilt but were too small and Walton moved to Staines which became the centre for the development and manufacture of lino – though later much was made at Kirkaldy. The Staines works closed in 1974.

The Royal Chiswick Laundry was built in the rear garden of 22 St Peter’s Square in the 1890s, facing onto British Grove. The laundry closed in 1968 and the works were used briefly by “a company that added soundtrack to film before the property in 1973 became the offices, recording studios and premises of Island Records, who moved in with a staff of 65.” Their recording studio included “the base of the chimney, which was occasionally used in recordings to add reverberation” to vocals.

Many locals were relived when Island Records moved out and were in 2005 replaced by architects who retained and restored much of the buildings which were renamed Island Studios.

House, St Peter's Square, Hammersmith, Hammersmith & Fulham, 1989, 89-12c-65
House, St Peter’s Square, Hammersmith, Hammersmith & Fulham, 1989, 89-12c-65

This is No 22, the house in whose back garden the Royal Chiswick Laundry was built, at the south-west corner of St Peter’ Square. The houses in the square were built in 1825-30 and 32 are Grade II listed.

Houses, St Peter's Square, Hammersmith, Hammersmith & Fulham, 1989, 89-12c-52
Houses, St Peter’s Square, Hammersmith, Hammersmith & Fulham, 1989, 89-12c-52

The square was developed piecemeal by builders working to a master plan by the landowner George Scott on part of his Ravenscourt Park Esate, “mostly built in groups of three, with stucco fronts, pediments and Ionic porches.” Between these houses you can see the square chimney of the Royal Chiswick Laundry. And you can admire the architectural detail.

House, St Peter's Square, Hammersmith, Hammersmith & Fulham, 1989, 89-12c-41
House, St Peter’s Square, Hammersmith, Hammersmith & Fulham, 1989, 89-12c-41

Number 27 seems to be disappearing under foliage.

House, St Peter's Square, Hammersmith, Hammersmith & Fulham, 1989, 89-12c-42
House, 27, St Peter’s Square, Hammersmith, Hammersmith & Fulham, 1989, 89-12c-42

Two lions look rather angry at each other beside the stairs to the door of Number 30, with an eagle above the doorway.

Houses, St Peter's Square, Hammersmith, Hammersmith & Fulham, 1989, 89-12c-43
Houses, St Peter’s Square, Hammersmith, Hammersmith & Fulham, 1989, 89-12c-43

Some of the houses have gateposts with large pineapples – and perhaps others once did. And here again that impressive work above the side gates, as well as an eagle above the front door.

I took a few more pictures around the square, which really is worth a visit, before dragging myself away from one of London’s finest squares towards St Peter’s Church where the next account will begin.


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Turnham Green – 1989

Saturday, February 1st, 2025

Turnham Green – 1989: The second post on my walk which began at Kew Bridge Station on 10th of December 1989. The previous post was Kew Bridge & Gunnersbury 1989.

Empire House, Chiswick High Rd, Turnham Green, Hounslow, , 1989 89-12a-64
Empire House, Chiswick High Rd, Turnham Green, Hounslow, 1989 89-12a-64

It might be thought odd that this tall office building which was built starting in 1959 should have been called Empire House, when the British Empire was almost completely gone, but the Empire from which this tower got its name was the Chiswick Empire, built for theatre owner and manager Oswald Stoll at 414 Chiswick High Road, replacing some shops and a smithy which opened in 2012.

The architect was the leading theatre architect Frank Matcham and it was a grand example of the Edwardian ‘Jacobean’ style. Built to seat 4,000 it featured mainly variety shows, but also more serious theatre and perhaps was in its heyday in the 1940s and early 50s. Wikipedia has a great list of some of those who appeared in its final years “Tommy Cooper, Max Miller, Max Bygraves, Julie Andrews, Morecambe and Wise, Ken Dodd, Max Wall, Dickie Valentine, the Ray Ellington Quartet, Peter Sellers and Dorothy Squires (1952), Laurel and Hardy on a return visit (1954), Al Martino, Alma Cogan, Terry-Thomas (1955) and Cliff Richard (1959).” Cliff wasn’t quite the man who brought the house down, with the final shows being by Liberace with the theatre being demolished within a month of his stepping away from the piano.

I don’t know who was the architect responsible for Empire House. It has recently been bought and redeveloped into flats and town houses.

Sandersons Wallpaper. Factory, Barley Mow Passage, Turnham Green, Hounslow, 1989, 89-12a-52
Sandersons Wallpaper. Factory, Barley Mow Passage, Turnham Green, Hounslow, 1989, 89-12a-52

This elegant wallpaper factory was designed by C F Voysey and built in 1902. It was the only commercial building designed by the celebrated Arts & Crafts architect and designer and is Grade II* listed.

Arthur Sanderson & Sons Ltd, now just Sanderson, was founded in Islington in 1860 and made fabrics and wallpaper. The company came to Chiswick in 1879 and this building was an extension on the other side of the road to their earlier factory, built in 1893. After a fire in 1928, the company moved to Perivale selling off the Voysey building. They had also built a factory in Uxbridge in 1919 to produce fabrics. Sandersons moved back to into the Voysey building in 2024.

Sandersons had bought the business of Jeffrey & Co who had printed William Morris’s wallpapers and in 1940 when Morris & Co dissolved they also bought the rights to use the Morris name.

House, Dukes Avenue, Turnham Green, Hounslow, 1989, 89-12a-41
House, Dukes Avenue, Turnham Green, Hounslow, 1989, 89-12a-41

Dukes Avenue runs south from Turnham Green towards Chiswick House. Lord Burlington’s grandson was able after the Chiswick enclosures act of 1814 to build the road from his estate to Chiswick High Road. The road is lined with lime trees.

Houses along here seem seldom to be sold, but one went recently for over £3 million. Most appear to be large, solid and Edwardian but of no great interest.

Gateway, House, Dukes Avenue, Turnham Green, Hounslow, 1989, 89-12a-42
Gateway, House, Dukes Avenue, Turnham Green, Hounslow, 1989, 89-12a-42
Devonshire Works, Dukes Avenue, Turnham Green, Hounslow, 1989, 89-12a-43
Devonshire Works, Dukes Avenue, Turnham Green, Hounslow, 1989, 89-12a-43

This former Sandersons factory, the “Devonshire works”, was used for light engineering in the 1960s by Evershed & Vignoles of Acton Lane. From 1971 it stood empty until restored by the Cornhill Insurance Co. as the Barley Mow Workspace, for individuals or small firms of designers or craftsmen, the first of whom arrived in 1976.”

Devonshire Works, Dukes Avenue, Turnham Green, Hounslow, 1989, 89-12a-44
Devonshire Works, Dukes Avenue, Turnham Green, Hounslow, 1989, 89-12a-44

After Lord Burlington who built Chiswick House died the property was inherited by the Dukes of Devonshire. I think this works probably dates from 1893.

Chiswick Memorial Club, Afton House, Bourne Place, Turnham Green, Hounslow, 1989, 89-12a-45
Chiswick Memorial Club, Afton House, Bourne Place, Turnham Green, Hounslow, 1989, 89-12a-45

Afton House, built around 1800 is the only remaining example of the grand houses which were bilt in around 1800 along Chiswick High Road, and it Grade II listed. In the 1850s it was called Falkland House and was a school, but was renamed Afteon House in 1861. From then until 1887 it remained a school but then became a laundry until 1913. Empty and bcoming derelict it was bought in 1919 by Dan Mason of the Chiswick Polish Company (best remembered for their Cherry Blossom Shoe Polish) and given as a club for ex-servicemen.

Linden Gardens, Chiswick High Rd, Turnham Green, Hounslow, 1989, 89-12a-34
Linden Gardens, Chiswick High Rd, Turnham Green, Hounslow, 1989, 89-12a-34

Dr Ralph Griffiths who founded the Monthly Review and edited it for 50 years was one of the many “noble, artistic and scholarly residents” of the area in the 18th century and he lived in Linden House where Linden Gardens now is. He was a London bookseller and publisher Ralph Griffiths, with “bookshops at St. Paul’s Churchyard from 1747 until 1753, then at 20 Pater Noster Row until 1759, and finally on the Strand near Catherine Street until 1772 – all under the sign of the Dunciad.”

Griffiths was notably involved in the 1746 publication of Acanius or the Young Adventurer, a fictionalized account of the Young Pretender, and may have been its author. The government attempted unsuccessfully to suppress the book and it remained in print for over 150 years.

Chiswick Fire Station, Chiswick High Rd, Turnham Green, Hounslow, 1989, 89-12a-36
Chiswick Fire Station, Chiswick High Rd, Turnham Green, Hounslow, 1989, 89-12a-36

Chiswick Fire Station at 197 Chiswick High Road is an elegant building with a tower and is now a bar and restaurant. It was for sale when I made this picture. Built in 1891 the tower at right was used to hang up fire hoses to dry and also to store the long fire escape ladder. A new fire station was built in 1963 and this became redundant.

War Memorial, Turnham Green, Hounslow, 1989, 89-12a-26
War Memorial, Turnham Green, Hounslow, 1989, 89-12a-26

Erected in 1921 ‘In grateful and affectionate memory of the men of Chiswick who fell in the Great War, 1914 – 1918’ this simple obelisk is a rather plain reminder of their sacrifice designed by Edward Willis FSI, Engineer and Architect to the Chiswick Urban District Council. More names were added after the Second World War. There seems to be little reason to justify its Grade II listing

I walked on to Bedford Park. More from there in a later post .


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All photographs on this page are copyright © Peter Marshall.
Contact me to buy prints or licence to reproduce.