Posts Tagged ‘memorials’

Memorials, Eros and More – Highbury & Lower Holloway 1989

Thursday, October 3rd, 2024

Memorials, Eros and More: On Sunday 15th October 1989 I caught the North London Line from Richmond to Highbury & Islington for the start of another walk in North London.

Boer War Memorial, Higbury Crescent, Highbury Place, Highbury, Islington, 1989 89-10f-24
Boer War Memorial, Higbury Crescent, Highbury Place, Highbury, Islington, 1989 89-10f-24

There had been a series of conflicts between Dutch and British settlers in South Africa for some years as the Boers opposed the British annexation of African countries and resented British attempts to end slavery. The first Boer War in 1880-1 ended badly for the British who signed a peace treaty with Transvaal President Paul Kruger.

But the discovery of huge gold reserves in 1884 created a hug British interest in the area, and Britain again decided to try to take control of Transvaal and the Orange Free State. One of the earliest moves was a failed attempt thought up then by Cape Prime Minister Cecil Rhodes and Johannesburg gold magnate Alfred Beit to provoke an uprising in Johannesburg by an armed raid from Rhodesia, the Jameson Raid over the New Year in 1896. This was followed by an uneasy truce – and an uprising by the Matabele and Mashona peoples against the British South Africa Company whose forces had been greatly weakened by taking part the raid which was suppressed with many Africans killed.

British efforts continued and in 1899 after Britain rejected an ultimatum to withdraw their troops made by Kruger he declared what we generally call the Boer War, though now more widely known as the South African War, which continued until 1902.

The memorial was erected here in 1905 and the inscription reads:

HOW SLEEP THE BRAVE WHO SINK TO REST
BY ALL THEIR COUNTRY’S WISHES BLESS’D.
IN HONOUR OF
NINETY-EIGHT ISLINGTONIANS
WHO DIED FOR THEIR COUNTRY
IN THE SOUTH AFRICAN WAR,
1899 – 1903.
ERECTED BY THEIR FELLOW-TOWNSMEN
JULY 1905.

as well as listing the names of the 98.

The war had repercussions and laid the basis for apartheid in South Africa. It also saw the first ‘concentration camps’ where Boers were imprisoned by the British. And Robert Baden-Powell who had been a scout in the war set up the Scout movement with a uniform and ideas based on his role there.

On the wall behind the cannons is the graffitied message ‘BRITISH STATE HEAR US SAY – IRISH PEOPLE WILL MAKE YOU PAY.

The Court Gardens, Holloway Rd, Highbury, Islington 1989 89-10f-12
The Court Gardens, Holloway Rd, Highbury, Islington 1989 89-10f-12

This gate to The Court Gardens is, perhaps unsurprisingly, next to Highbury Corner Magistrates’ Court on Holloway Road, which perhaps accounts for the uncompromising concrete wall at right. Underneath the name it states PRIVATE PROPERTY. A private road leads into the housing in Court Gardens from Liverpool Road,

Thomas Judd, Memorials, 123 Holloway Rd, Highbury, Islington, 1989 89-10f-13
Thomas Judd, Memorials, 123 Holloway Rd, Highbury, Islington, 1989 89-10f-13

Thomas Judd, Memorial & Marble Masons remained in this shop until around 2018. The shop had been open since the 1880s and was thought to have been the oldest business in continuous use on the street.

The Camden New Journal reported in 2018 that its owner, Kenneth Howard, was an 81 year-old who had retired and in 2016 had been suspended from the National Association of Memorial Masons register for a year. This meant the company was unable to work in many cemeteries. He was taken to court by some clients who had paid deposits to him for work he had been unable to deliver, claiming he had been let down by a sub-contractor, and was ordered to pay back the deposits with compensation, court costs and a victim surcharge.

Bookbinders of London, Ronalds Road, Highbury, Islington, 1989 89-10g-61
Bookbinders of London, Ronalds Road, Highbury, Islington, 1989 89-10g-61

This company is still in existence but moved its registered office from 11 Ronalds Road in 2014 to Hertford and their name across the adjoining gates was replaced the following year by NET.WORKS.LONDON and later by UNCOMMON as serviced offices.

Although the neighbouring former Salvation Army Citadel is locally listed I was a little surprised to find this building is not mentioned.It is well-proportioned with fine doorways.

Bookbinders of London, Ronalds Road, Highbury, Islington, 1989 89-10g-66
Bookbinders of London, Ronalds Road, Highbury, Islington, 1989 89-10g-66

According to the fine ‘Streets With Story’ by Eric A Willats, Ronalds Road was named “after Sir Francis Ronalds (1788-1873) who was, with Wheatstone, one of the pioneers of the electric telegraph. The name was suggested by a Mr. M.C. Sharpe who for years had lived at Highbury Terrace. Sir Francis’s father Francis Ronalds took over no.1 Highbury Terrace in 1796 and died in 1806. The new road had run alongside no.1 and the first electric wires ran from a coach-house of no.1 to a cottage in the immediate neighbourhood.”

Ronalds (1788 – 1873) built the world’s first working telegraph system in his mother’s back garden in Hammersmith when he was 28 in 1816. ‘It was infamously rejected on 5 August 1816 by Sir John Barrow, Secretary at the Admiralty, as being “wholly unnecessary“.’

Drayton Park, Islington, 1989 89-10g-53
Drayton Park Rd, Highbury, Islington, 1989 89-10g-53

I think this fence and yard has long disappeared together with the figure on it, but is was possibly part of Drayton Park School close to the corner of Arvon Road. I think the picture shows a child holding something just above kitchen scales.

Eros Fashions, Hornsey Rd, Lower Holloway, Islington, 1989 89-10g-43
Eros Fashions, Hornsey Rd, Lower Holloway, Islington, 1989 89-10g-43

Much of this section of Hornsey Road close to the impressive Victorian School building at 30-36 has been replaced by modern buildings since 1989 and I think that the building that Eros Fashions occupied has gone. Certainly I can find no trace of it now.

Back then Eros Fashions was still in business, with vacancies for almost everyone involved in the manufacture of clothing:

VACANCIES
MACHINISTS
FINISHERS
PRESSER
OVERLOCKERS
FELLING
CUTTER

on the board beside the door, and shadowy mannequins inside.

This is the final picture in my book ‘1989’ still available on Blurb, though at a silly price for the print version, and the full set of pages is on the web site, including this image and this text:

‘Eros, fairest among the deathless gods, who unnerves the limbs and overcomes the mind and wise counsels of all gods and all men within them.’

Created first out of Chaos, also son to Aphrodite, though argument rages as to whether his Dad was Zeus, Ares or even Uranus.

It must be a bit of a come-down to be running a fashion manufacturer (to be rude you could call it a sweat-shop) in North London. Though he was always a bit of a shady character – those different names for a start – Cupid and Amor – what was he trying to hide? And then there’s that business with Hymen, best not to say too much.”‘”

Which seems a suitable place to end this post, though my walk will continue in further episodes.


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Hull General Cemetery – 1989

Monday, March 11th, 2024

Hull General Cemetery – I’ve long been fascinated by cemeteries and London certainly has some fine examples, though I’ve tried hard not to devote too much time to photographing them. But in many cities they provide places where you can get away from busy streets and they act as nature reserves in which you can sit and have a short rest and enjoy the variety of architecture and art in the memorials.

Hull General Cemetery, Spring Bank West, Hull, 1989 89-8d-35
Hull General Cemetery, Spring Bank West, Hull, 1989 89-8d-35

Hull has its share of cemeteries, at least 26, though some are long out of use and some in various ways desecrated. Those still open for burial are large and lacking in much interest though I sometimes visit particular graves there, but a number of older ones have survived at least in part, though one of those I liked to walk through, Trinity Burial Ground, was recently completely dug up.

Hull General Cemetery, Spring Bank West, Hull, 1989 89-8d-33
Hull General Cemetery, Spring Bank West, Hull, 1989 89-8d-33

Hull General Cemetery on Spring Bank West was opened for burials in 1847 and was described by Philip Larkin as “the most beautiful spot in Hull” and you can read more about it on the website of The Friends of Hull General Cemetery, a group only founded in 2018 and now a registered charity.

In the lengthy history of the cemetery on their site it mentions the cholera epidemic across the world which which reached Hull in 1849 which killed 3% of Hull’s population. Most of their bodies were buried in a plague pit in this cemetery and later a large obelisk was erected in their memory.

Hull General Cemetery, Spring Bank West, Hull, 1989 89-8d-31
Hull General Cemetery, Spring Bank West, Hull, 1989 89-8d-31

It also mentions that before the opening of Hull’s first park in 1861 “it was the only place where people could promenade without paying a fee.” For some years it was also the only place in Hull open for burials and some large and ostentatious monuments were erected in memory of the wealthier inhabitants.

Hull General Cemetery was established by a private company and later in 1862 the local authority was enabled to set up a Burial Board and create municipal cemeteries, the first of which, now the Western Cemetery, was established on land adjoining the General Cemetery to the west.

Hull General Cemetery, Spring Bank West, Hull, 1989 89-8d-25
Hull General Cemetery, Spring Bank West, Hull, 1989 89-8d-25

Competition with the municipal cemeteries meant the General Cemetery went into a long period of gradual decline with the company being finally wound up in 1972 and the cemetery sold to Hull City Council for £1 in 1974.

Hull General Cemetery, Spring Bank West, Hull, 1989 89-8d-12
Hull General Cemetery, Spring Bank West, Hull, 1989 89-8d-12

The council then set in place a controversial scheme to redevelop the cemetery by removing most of the headstones and grass the area to make it easy to maintain. Much of the work was carried out with little care by youth labour projects and it aroused considerable and widespread opposition, “including such names as Philip Larkin and John Betjeman, was overruled and the wholesale destruction of irreparable historical artefacts took place.”

A small section was kept in its previous state and those headstones which were identified as being for more notable persons were allowed to remain. Over five years the council largely turned the cemetery into a park with a few monuments and small areas of the previous cemetery, including the Friends Burial Ground.

Hull General Cemetery, Spring Bank West, Hull, 1989 89-8d-15
Hull General Cemetery, Spring Bank West, Hull, 1989 89-8d-15

With cuts in local authority funding the council stopped the maintenance of the area and according to the web site “The dumping of rubbish began to happen more regularly, paths became quagmires; sycamore saplings began to destroy the remaining stones whilst ivy swamped them. The entire cemetery was quickly becoming a place to avoid rather than to visit.”

As well as on the web site you can also read about the cemetery in the the book ‘Hull General Cemetery 1847 – 1972, A Short Introduction‘ also by Pete Lowden and Bill Longbone.

Hull General Cemetery, Spring Bank West, Hull, 1989 89-8d-13
Hull General Cemetery, Spring Bank West, Hull, 1989 89-8d-13

On most of my visits to Hull from 1966 until 2018 I walked through the cemetery and the Western Cemetery from Sping Bank West close to the corner with Princes Ave to Chanterlands Ave, occasionally stopping to take a picture or two. The ones here are all from August 1989. One records the long story of John Gravill, Master Mariner which you can read above.

More to come from Hull in August 1999.


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St Omer & Arques 1993

Sunday, May 7th, 2023

Mostly I’ve photographed London over the past 50 or so years, with just a few earlier pictures that I think I have lost, including the first film I ever had processed, of ancient oak trees in Richmond Park back in 1962. It cost me 17s 6d to get it processed and it was years before I could afford to do more. I think all of the pictures are now lost. But I have also photographed elsewhere, particularly in Hull and Paris, and also on a number of holidays, some where I’ve perhaps taken photography more seriously than others. But I’ve always had a camera with me.

Cyclists, France

A few of those holidays have been cycling holidays, including a ride up the Loire valley and a couple of others in northern France. France is a better place to cycle than the UK for various reasons. It still has mile after mile of largely empty rural roads and French drivers have a much more positive attitude towards cyclists. More of them are cyclists themselves or have been.

le Marais Audomarois, St Omer, France

One such holiday was in late August 1993, when I went with my wife and two sons, aged 14 and 17 to northern France. Our rides were fairly leisurely with not the slightest whiff of Lycra and frequent stops for me to repair the punctures of the others or carry out other running repairs. My own bike, a 1956 Cinelli bought secondhand for me by my eldest borther for my 13th birthday performed without any such problems. I’ve recently scanned and put the pictures from our holiday into a Flickr album.

Water Tower, near Cassel, France

Two things made that difficult. One was the poor trade processing of the colour negative film I used, with one film having two large gouges across most frames along with some other damage which required extensive digital retouching. I tried out Photshops new AI filter which removed them perfectly – but also took out some other parts of the image, so I went back to doing the job manually.

Tower, Hauts-de-France, France, 1993, 93c08-01-71

But what took as much or rather more time was trying to identify the locations for many of the images. I’ve done my best, but some are still rather vague and others may be wrong. I’m hoping that some viewers on Flickr will help and tell me more. If you know the area around Calais, Ardres, St Omer, Arques and Cassel please do take a look. The pictures are rather mixed up in order, and I was using two cameras, both with colour negative film, for reasons I can not now understand.

Canal, Rue des Faiseurs de Bateaux, Saint-Omer, Hauts-de-France, France, 1993, 93c08-01-41

On 23 August 1993 we made an early morning start on a train to Clapham Junction and rode from there to Victoria. The train to Dover and the crossing to Calais for the four of us cost £42 for a fivee-day return ticket and our bikes travelled free. We arrived in mid-afternoon and an easy ride took us to the hotel we had booked in Ardres.

Bridge, Canal, Hauts-de-France, France, 1993, 93c08-01-43

The following day was a more difficult ride, and we had a nasty few minutes when Joseph’s chain came off and jammed between sprockets and hub far from any town or village, close to the high speed line then being built for Eurostar, work on which had involved us in a number of detours, and for years I’d look out of the window a few minutes after we came out of the tunnel and recognise the short uphill stretch were it happened.

Blockhaus d'Éperlecques, Éperlecques, France

Eventually after much sweating I managed to free it and we could proceed. For some reason we had decided to visit the Blockhaus d’Eperlecques, built in 1943 as a base to launch V2 rockets at Britain, but destroyed by bombing and now a French National Monument with some very large holes in its concrete roof.

Bridge, near St Omer, France

Our route to it involved a rather large hill but we were able to rest a bit and look around the site before continuing on our journey to St Omer. Here we found another slight problem with our French map, which showed what looked like a nice quiet route on to Arques. It turned out to be an abandoned railway track, complete with sleepers and impossible to ride. After struggling for a while we turned back and took the N42 instead and soon reached Arques.

L'Ascenseur à Bateaux des Fontinettes, Arques, France

At Arques we were just in time for the last guided tour of the day of the 1888 boat lift, L’Ascenseur à Bateaux des Fontinettes, modelled on the Anderton lift in Cheshire, replacing 5 locks and taking 22 minutes to transfer boats up and down by 13.13 metres – 43 ft. It was closed in 1967 as traffic had grown considerably and replaced by a single modern lock.

A la Grande Ste Catherine, Hotel, Hauts-de-France, France, 1993, 93c08-01-52

At Arques we had booked a three night stay at ‘A la Grande Ste-Catherine’ . Including breakfasts for us all and a couple of dinners for the two of us (our two sons wouldn’t eat proper French food) this cost 1832 Francs, then a little over £200. They ate frites and burgers from a street stall, though one night we did all manage to find food for all of us at a supermarket restaurant.

le Marais Audomarois,, St Omer, France

The next day we returned to look around St Omer, and then rode to Tilques, abandoning saddles for a boat trip around le Marais Audomarois, one of the more interesting parts of our visit.

Rooftops, Cassel, France

And for our last full day in France we took a ride to Cassel, a town on a hill that rises to the highest point on the Plain of Flanders, surrounded by flat lands in all directions, taking an indirect route via the Forêt Domaniale de Rihoult (Clairmarais), rather disappointing as it was full of noisy schoolkids from their colonies de vacances.

Radio Uylenspiegel, Cassel, France

It was a struggle up the hill to Cassel, and we were glad to rest for a while at the cafe inside the grim fortress of a Flemish language radio station – former a casino and I think the local Gestapo headquarters. Our ride back to Arques was by the direct route and began with a long downhill stretch where no pedalling was needed for a very long way.

A Cathelain,  Bavinchove, France

Finally came our last day, and I planned an easy route back to Calais, mainly beside canals. But the others objected and demanded a visit to the Eurotunnel exhibition on the way, which held us up considerably, not least because most of the roads had been diverted to build the high speed line and our map was fairly useless. We finally managed to catch the 19.15 ferry, a few hours before our ticket expired.

Many more pictures in the Flickr album Northern France – St Omer.



An East London Ride – 2010

Friday, February 3rd, 2023

Salmon Lane Locki, Regents Canal

It’s perhaps misleading to call this a ride, since I spent most of the day on Wednesday 3rd February 2010 actually off my bike, parking it neatly to take photographs. Although a bicycle has been my main personal transport now for over 70 years (when I’m not using public transport or walking) I’m not really a cyclist. Or at least just a pragmatic cyclist, using a bike just to get from A to B (and on this day to C,D and most of the letters of the alphabet.)

An East London Ride - 2010
Memorial to firewatchers of Stepney Gas Works

And just very occasionally for a bit of exercise. I have used exercise bikes and always thought why bother when you could use the real thing, though I suppose when its pouring with rain or below zero there might be some point in them. And though one wouldn’t help me to take photographs I would be less likely to be killed by careless or dangerous drivers.

An East London Ride - 2010
Bromley-by-Bow gasholders, Twelvetrees Bridge

Back at the end of 2002 I bought myself a Brompton folding bike, and a year or three later when I was undergoing a Q & A interview for an amateur photography magazine it became my answer to ‘What is your most useful photographic accessory’. It had replaced the answer to a similar question from another such magazine which was ‘a good pair of shoes’.

Eternal flame, West Ham Memorial Gardens

Once you have practised a few times the Brompton folds (and unfolds) in a few seconds into a fairly compact package, which has the advantage you can take it at any time onto our trains and underground system. It’s too heavy for me to comfortably carry any distance, but I added the tiny wheels which mean you can pull it rather like a suitcase, only actually lifting it when necessary. And I bought the bag which fits on in front of the handlebars which was about the right size for my camera gear and essentials like a bottle of water or a flask of coffee and sandwiches.

The end of the ‘Fatwalk’

I can’t know remember exactly how I got to the start of my ride, though I think I probably rode from Waterloo to Fenchurch Street for a train to Limehouse station, crossing the Thames on Southwark Bridge. But from there on the pictures make my route fairly clear.

Bow Creek and Bow Locks

I cycled roughly along the Regents Canal up to the former Stepney Gas Works site north of Ben Johnson Road. There had been a fight to save more elements of the former gas works including gas holders which were some of the oldest surviving in the world; although some were said by English Heritage to be of national importance an attempt to get one of them listed failed. Eventually the area was redeveloped by Bellway Homes with only token ‘public art’ residues of the works.

From there I headed east to the bridge at Twelvetrees Crescent across Bow Creek and the Lea Navigation to visit another gas works site, the West Ham Memorial Gardens where war memorials, a permanent flame and a statue of Sir Corbett Woodhall are in a small wooded area close to the remarkable group of gas holders for the former Bromley-by-Bow Gas Works.

Three Mills

From there I went down to the recently opened path beside Bow Creek, part of a planned riverside walk which had been landed with the ridiculous name of The Fatwalk. As I commented then, most of the walk, meant to lead from Three Mills all the way to the Thames was still closed (and is still closed 13 years later) and by the time they were open the “nincompoop who thought that ‘The Fatwalk’ was a good name for this route will probably have retired or died or moved to another job for which he (or she) is equally incapable and common sense will prevail as we walk or cycle along the Bow Creek Trail.”

New Lock, Prescott Channel

The walk still only goes as far south as Cody Dock, now a thriving community resource and hub with events and exhibitions and worth a visit, but in 2010 still undeveloped. The silly name has gone and this path is now also a part of London’s sculpture trail, The Line, making its way from the Greenwich Peninsula to Stratford.

Three Mills Wall River

At the end of the Fatwalk, I had to turn around and go back to the Twelvetrees Crescent bridge, where I once again photographed the locks from the Lea Navigation to Bow Creek. Now there are new steps leading down from this bridge to the towpath, but then I had to go across and join the fast-moving traffic on the Blackwall Tunnel Northern Approach to make my way to Three Mills.

Stratford High St

Three Mills is home to one of Newhams only four Grade I listed buildings and the House Mill, a tide mill, was built in 1776, though there had been tide mills here at least since the Domesday book.

Olympic stadium

The film studios here were converted from a gin factory where Chaim Weizmann developed a new biochemical process to produce acetone needed for explosive production in the First World War – which led to the Balfour Declaration and later to Weizmann becoming the first president of Israel.

Bridge over City Mill River

Past the studios I visited the new lock on the Prescott Channel, opened in 2009. Supposedly this was to be used by barges to carry away waste and bring in material for the development of the Olympic site instead of lorries, but was in practice only used for photo-opportunities. The Prescott Channel was built in the 1930s, part of a large flood relief programme, that was also largely to provide jobs at the height of the depression.

I get interviewed for a student film

Finally I cycled up to the Olympic site, a building site with little or no public access, but parts of the ‘Greenway’ – the path on the Northern Sewage Outfall – were still open and gave extensive views. The reason I was in London on this particular day, when the weather wasn’t at its best was to be interviewed and filmed by a group of students at the View tube on the Greenway. I can’t remember ever seeing the video. After the interview I made my way to Stratford to fold the Brompton and start my journey home on the Jubilee Line.

Bow Creek – right click to open at a viewable size in a new tab

As well as taking single images I also produced a number of panoramas, taking a series of pictures from the same position to be stitched together. These include some 360 degree views, produced by software from 6 or 8 individual images. The pictures were taken on a Nikon D700 and are each 12Mp, but the combined files are huge. It isn’t easy to display these on the web, and they fit even less well on this blog. I’ll post one here on a rather smaller scale and invite you to double click on it to see it larger, though still much reduced. You can find more online here.

Olympic Site Revisited
Three Mills
Bow and The Fatwalk