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Curry’s, Firestone, A Fountain & Kluwer – Brentford – 1990

Curry’s, Firestone, A Fountain & Kluwer continues from where my previous post about my walk on Sunday 7th January 1990 In Memory of Macleans & Trico – 1990 ended.

Warehouse, 991, Great West Road, Brentford, Hounslow, 1990, 90-1g-42 — *Former Curry’s, 991, Great West Road, Brentford, Hounslow, 1990, 90-1g-42*

Warehouse and offices built in 1935-6 by F E Simpkins as a distribution centre for Curry’s Ltd. Grade II listed in 1994. Curry’s lost their headquarters building when it was taken over during the war to make aircraft parts. But in 1996 they opened a new superstore a few yards down the road at 971, a site where from 1929 Packard Cars were built; it had beenbadly damaged by a V2 in March 1945, but was rebuilt and became an annexe to Sperry Gyroscope until they moved to Bracknell in 1966.

In 1990, 991 Great West Road was Cooper West London Service. After some years of disuse in 2000 it became the offices of JC Decaux.

*Gate, Firestone Tyre Factory, Great West Road, Brentford, Hounslow, 1990, 90-1g-43*

Closed in 1979, the factory was bought by Trafalgar House and demolished during the 1980 August bank holiday to preempt its listing, due to be announced two days later. It was one of the finest buildings designed by Wallis, Gilbert and Partners and only the second to be opened on the Great West Rd in 1928.

*Gate, Firestone Tyre Factory, Great West Road, Brentford, Hounslow, 1990, 90-1g-31*

Its demolition was widely condemned as an act of architectural vandalism by architectural critics, many of whom would gladly have lain down in front of the bulldozers had they known about it in time. It’s demolition led directly to the listing of at least 150 twentieth century buildings previously ignored, though too many remained unprotected and have been lost.

Many of us felt that Lord Victor Matthews who ordered the instant demolition to avoid listing should have been in some way brought to justice – or at least have his life peerage removed. But nothing was done.

*Fountain, Great West Road, Brentford, Hounslow, 1990, 90-1g-35*

The building at the left of this image is the former Coty Cosmetics Factory at 941 Great West Road from 1932 by Wallis, Gilbert and Partners, now Syon Clinic, and to the right an odd structure outside Homebase. This fountain must have been close to the corner of Shield Drive, perhaps to distract attention from the bland and mediocre more recent buildings in the area.

*Kluwer Publishing, Harlequin Avenue, Brentford, Hounslow, 1990, 90-1g-22*

Harlequin Avenue runs north from the Great West Road and is still lined by factories and commercial buildings, few of much architectural interest. Kluwer Publishing was perhaps the exception but this building has since been demolished.

*Gilette, Syon Lane, Isleworth, Hounslow, 1990, 90-1g-26*

The Gillette building at the corner of the Great West Road and Syon Lane marks the western end of Brentford’s ‘Golden Mile’. To the west of here the land was owned by the Church Commissioners who only permitted residential development in Osterly.

Designed by Sir Banister Flight Fletcher in 1936-7, Gillette continued to make razor blades here until production was moved to Poland in 2006. The tall tower can be seen from miles away in this flat corner of Middlesex.

*Gilette, Syon Lane, Isleworth, Hounslow, 1990, 90-1g-11*

Plans to convert the building into a hotel and small business park fell through and in 2013 the site was purchased by The Vinyl Factory and made available for filming, at first with four large stages. Plans were approved in 2025 to make more of the site available for filming while preserving the Grade II listed building – and are expected to provide more than 3,400 permanent jobs.

More from my walk in the next instalment.

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A Day Out in Deptford – 2018

A Day Out in Deptford: On Saturday 29th September I had decided to go on the Deptford Art & Gentrification Walk, part of the Deptford X Festival, and Deptford Aint Avinnit, an art crawl organised by ART&CRITIQUE. This was the second such walk, following on from an earlier event in May 2018.

Over the afternoon we visited community spaces, galleries, studios, landmarks, waterways, green spaces and new developments on a guided walk through the street with a series of discussions on the relationship between art and gentrification and the huge changes that are currently sweeping through Deptford.

As I wrote in My London Diary in 2018, “The walk took place because of the continuing struggle with Lewisham Council over their plans to build on the 20-year old community run Old Tidemill Garden, the adjoining council flats, Reginald House, and Tidemill Primary School, which closed in 2012.”

“Local residents, including those whose homes in Reginald House are threatened with demolition have opposed the plans, and at the end of August a group of them had occupied the Old Tidemill Garden.”

The development would mean the loss of environmentally valuable green space but more importantly would be a part of the social cleansing of London which Lewisham, like other London Labour dominated councils are taking part in, demolishing council housing at social rents largely by private housing.

“The site was to be developed by Peabody with 209 housing units, 51 for sale at market prices, 41 in shared ownership schemes (which require relatively high incomes) and 109 to be let at London Mayor Sadiq Khan’s London Affordable Rent, something like 65% higher than current Lewisham council rents. As well as paying much higher rents, tenants under this scheme will have for less security of tenure.“

The residents group had put forward alternative plans which suggested retaining the Tidemill Garden and council flats and building at higher density on the redundant school site to create a similar number of housing units, but the council refused to consider these and terminated the community lease on the gardens on 29th August – when residents squatted them.

“The garden was established in 1997 with the aid of Groundwork, the London Development Agency, the Foundation for Sport & Arts, Mowlem plc, Lewisham College and Lewisham Council, and much of the work on it was carried out by parents and children from Tideway Primary. It now includes 74 well-established trees and has been shown to improve air quality in the local area.”

The garden was where we had the longest discussion on the tour, but there were plenty of other places where we stopped to discuss what was happening, making it an interesting afternoon.

It was a fine day and I decided to go to Deptford a couple of hours early to take a walk around some of the parts that were not included on the tour. I’d first photographed Deptford in 1979 and took with me a copy of my book Deptford to Woolwich 1979-85.

Back in the early 1980s much of Deptford was a very different place, with industry around the Creek and Deptford Power Station. Almost all of that has now gone, replaced by tall flats including much student housing and the Laban Dance Centre. On the tour we visited some of the former industrial buildings which are now artists studios and galleries. On part of the tour I was able to show pictures of what some parts of Deptford looked like before the changes.

The many pictures on My London Diary are in three posts, links below. Deptford Walk contains pictures from my own unaccompanied walk before the art crawl. Deptford Art & Gentrification Walk has my pictures taken during the walk. A third post, Deptford Panoramas, has extreme wide-angle views taken during both walks. These have the normal aspect ration of 1.5:1, but an extreme angle of both horizontal and vertical view.

The pictures show many aspects of Deptford, still a vibrant area of London, though rapidly changing. The Tidemill Garden is now built on, Deptford Cinema closed in 2020 but has a number of ongoing projects, the High Street market was still busy last time I was there, and the Dog and Bell serves a fine pint.

Deptford Panoramas
Deptford Art & Gentrification Walk
Deptford Walk

St John’s Wood

Long ago St John’s Wood was a real wood, part of the Forest of Middlesex, and was the property of the Knights Hospitaller of St John of Jerusalem who were based in Clerkenwell. Pregiously it had belonged to the Catholic Poor Fellow-Soldiers of Christ and of the Temple of Solomon (better know as the Templars) who were suppressed in 1312. Henry VIII grabbed the land in 1539 when he dissolved the monasteries during the Reformation, but Charles II gave it to one of his mates in settlement of a debt of £1300, and eventually most of it was sold to a city wine merchant, Henry Samuel Eyre in 1733, and much of the area remains the Eyre Estate. Other parts belong to Harrow School.

Development on the Eyre estate began in 1809 The area was developed as an area for the growing upper middle class, with many detached and semi-detached villas with large gardens, the first garden suburb anywhere in the world. Some later were replaced by blocks of flats and terraces of housing, but the area remains one of the most expensive around London. It’s not an area where I often felt at home.

In 2011 I was able to go behind some of the high walls and photograph the ‘Secret Gardens of St John’s Wood‘ in a project initiated by Mireille Galinou of the Queens Terrace Café and shown there in November 2011, but there were still many impenetrable behind high walls, some protected by security guards with suspicious bulges in their clothing. But in 1988 I kept to the streets.

These flats are at the west end of Abercorn Place at its corner with Maida Vale at the rear of Wellesley Court, architect Frank Scarlett, built in 1938. Perhaps surprisingly the St John’s Wood Conservation Area is carefully drawn to exclude this set of expensive private flats.

Nugent Terrace, St John's Wood, Westminster, 1988 88-7e-43-positive_2400 — *Nugent Terrace, St John’s Wood, Westminster, 1988 88-7e-43*

There are still shops in Nugent Terrace, but I think this rather high-class cobblers is long gone. I was amused at how the figurines chosen matched the area.

Hill Rd, St John's Wood, Westminster, 1988 88-7e-46-positive_2400 — *Hill Rd, St John’s Wood, Westminster, 1988 88-7e-46*

This remarkable mansion block, Mortimer Court, on the corner of Hill Road and Abbey Road is certainly not typical of the area, and I have to apologise that my picture fails to record the full horror of its architecture, best appreciated from the opposite side of Abbey Road. It can be seen on the web sites of many of London’s estate agents.

Onslow Ford, memorial, sculpture, Andrea Carlo Lucchesi, Abbey Rd, Grove End Rd, St John's Wood, Westminster, 1988 88-7e-35-positive_2400 — *Onslow Ford, memorial, sculpture, Andrea Carlo Lucchesi, Abbey Rd, Grove End Rd, St John’s Wood, Westminster, 1988 88-7e-35*

English sculptor Edward Onslow Ford RA (1852—1901) was one of the leaders of the British New Sculpture movement of the 1880s, becoming famous for portrait busts and roundels of many leading figures including Ruskin, Millais, Thomas Huxley and Herbert Spencer. A number of his statues including that of Rowland Hill remain on public display.

He produced a long series of “bronze statuettes of adolescent girls in poses loosely derived from mythology or allegorical themes” some of which were also sold widely in smaller scale copies for Victorian homes, though they might not be appreciated now. The monument in St John’s Wood, close to his home was sculpted by his former studio assistant Andrea Carlo Lucchesi and based on one of Ford’s sculptures.

Abbey Rd Studios, Abbey Rd, St John's Wood, Westminster, 1988 88-7e-21-positive_2400 — *Abbey Rd Studios, Abbey Rd, St John’s Wood, Westminster, 1988 88-7e-21*

It is probably a punishable offence to go to Abbey Road and not take a photo of the now famous studios, though I resisted any urge to photograph the famous pedestrian crossing nearby.

Abbey Road Baptist Church,Abbey Rd, St John's Wood, Westminster, 1988 88-7e-24-positive_2400 — *Abbey Road Baptist Church,Abbey Rd, St John’s Wood, Westminster, 1988 88-7e-24*

The Baptist Church on Abbey Road was founded in 1863 by a Mr Stott, a preacher from Hyde Park, who engaged leading church architects Habershon & Pite to build this Grade II listed structure in a ‘Free Byzantine’ style.

In 1874 the Abbey Road and St John’s Wood Mutual Benefit Building Society was formed in what was then the Free Church. This later became Abbey Road and St John’s Wood Permanent Building Society and in 1944 joined with The National Building Society to beceome the Abbey National Building Society, which sadly demutualised in 1989 and in 2004 become wholly owned by the Spanish Santander Group.

Abbey Rd, St John's Wood, Westminster, 1988 88-7e-25-positive_2400 — *Abbey Rd, St John’s Wood, Westminster, 1988 88-7e-25*

This adjoining pair of gate-posts is no longer on Abbey Road, and the block of flats at No 20 have had something of a face lift since 1988. But to me they looked so much like an adult and child – and were perhaps a deliberate attempt to outdo the Joneses.

Abercorn Place, St John's Wood, Westminster, 1988 88-7e-11-positive_2400 — *Abercorn Place, St John’s Wood, Westminster, 1988 88-7e-11*

This small group of three houses on Abercorn Place at the corner of Violet Hill stood out among the fairly varied architecture of the street for the flower motifs above their first floor windows – a reminder, like the name Violet Hill, that this was the first garden suburb.

The gateposts, one of which is at right of the picture I think used to have a more obvious pattern on them, unfortunately out of focus in my image, which made them appear less crude.

My wanderings around St John’s Wood on a Saturday in July 1988 will continue in a later post. You can click on any of the pictures here to go to a larger version in my album 1988 London Photos, from where you can browse the album.