London Sri Murugan Chariot Festival – 2009

London Sri Murugan Chariot Festival: On Sunday 16th August 2009 I travelled to Manor Park in East Ham to photograph this annual festival. A small temple was consecrated here in 1984 but it was rebuilt in 2005 with a 50ft tall marble temple tower in Dravidian style and claimed to be the largest South Indian Hindu temple in Europe. Murugan is the patron deity of the Tamil language and the Hindu god of war. He is generally described as the son of the deities Shiva and Parvati and the brother of Ganesha.

London Sri Murugan Chariot Festival - 2009

Much of the description below is based on the account I wrote on My London Diary in 2009.

London Sri Murugan Chariot Festival - 2009

The chariot festival here in which Hindu deities are carried around the streets of East Ham was certainly on a grand scale, with the chariot pulled by people followed by a crowd of perhaps 5000 people, members of London’s Tamil community.

London Sri Murugan Chariot Festival - 2009

Along the route men and women stood in front of their homes and businesses with plates or baskets of fruit to hand to the temple priests riding on the chariot or walking in front for blessings by the Goddess; metal trays bearing fruits were returned bearing a flame and the families held out their hands to feel the warmth.

London Sri Murugan Chariot Festival - 2009
London Sri Murugan Chariot Festival - 2009
London Sri Murugan Chariot Festival - 2009

The chariot had two finely painted prancing horses at its front but was pulled by two ropes, on the right by women and on the left by men, with a large mixed crowd of followers behind. Those on the ropes and between them and many others walked barefoot through the streets, but many others kept their shoes on – and so did I, at least for most of the event.

The Goddess Gayatri, mother of the Vedas

The chariot was too tall to pass unaided under some of the telephone wires on the streets and was accompnied by attendants with a long pole with a beam across its top to lift up the wires while the chariot passed beneath.

A group of musicians walked in front of the chariot stopping occasionally to play.

Men walking with the chariot carried short heavy knives which were used to halve the coconuts offered for blessing, and at several places along the route groups of men stood and threw large numbers of coconuts onto the road to smash.

Things began to get a little frenzied as the chariot came back in sight of the temple after around four hours going around the street, with people crowding around anxious to have their plates and bowls of fruit blessed.

Eventually the chariot turned into the large temple yard. I followed it in there and took a few more pictures. There was a very long queue for food and I left for home.

I put many of the pictures I took onto My London Diary and it was very hard to choose which to put in this post. You can see the others at London Sri Murugan Chariot Festival.


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Tamil Chariot Festival – Ealing 2010

Tamil Chariot Festival: Last Sunday I briefly photographed for another time London’s best-known chariot festival, the Hare Krishna Rathayatra festival where devotees pull a giant chariot from Hyde Park to a festival in Trafalgar Square. But this is only one of a number of Hindu chariot festivals in London and on 8th August 2010 I took off my shoes to photograph a rather different event in West Ealing. Rather than describe it again I’ll reprint here what I wrote on My London Diary in 2010, though there are many more pictures attached to the original.


Tamil Chariot Festival in Ealing – West Ealing, London. 8 August 2010

Tamil Chariot Festival
Tamil Chariot Festival: Men wait with coconuts outside the temple, ready to roll along the road.

Several thousands attended the annual Chariot Festival from the Tamil Hindu Temple in West Ealing this morning, a colourful event in the streets around the temple. The celebration at the Shri Kanagathurkkai Amman (Hindu) Temple in a former chapel in West Ealing comes close to the end of their Mahotsavam festival which lasts for around four weeks each year.

Tamil Chariot Festival

A representation of the temple’s main goddess (Amman is Tamil for Mother) is placed on a chariot with temple priests and dragged around the streets by men and women pulling on large ropes.

Tamil Chariot Festival

Behind the chariot come around 50 men, naked from the waist up and each holding a coconut in front of them with both hands. They roll their bodies along the street for the half mile or so of the route, and behind them are a group of women who prostrate themselves to the ground every few steps. Men and women come and scatter Vibuthi (Holy Ash) on them.

Tamil Chariot Festival

The chariot, preceded by a smaller chariot, was dragged up Chapel Street to the main Uxbridge Road, where the bus lane was reserved for the procession. Once it had moved off the main road, people crowded up to the chariot, holding bowls of coconut and fruits (archanai thattu) as ritual offerings (puja) to be blessed by a temple priest.

Tamil Chariot Festival

Coconuts are a major product of the Tamil areas of India and Sri Lanka and play an important part in many Hindu rituals. Many are cut open or smashed on the ground during the festival, and at times my feet (like those taking part I was not wearing shoes) were soaked in coconut milk.

As I left the festival when the procession had travelled around halfway along its route I passed a group of men bringing more sacks of them to be broken.

A few yards down the road was the rest of the procession, including a number of women with flaming bowls of camphor (it burns with a fairly cool flame and leaves no residue – but at least one steward was standing by with a dry powder fire extinguisher in case flames got out of hand) and a larger group of women carrying jugs on their head.

In front of them were a number of male dancers, some with elaborate tiered towers above their heads. Others had heavy wooden frames decorated with flowers and peacock feathers, representing the weight of the sins of the world that the gods have to carry; they were held by ropes by another man, and the ropes were attached to their backs by a handful of large hooks through their flesh, many turned and twisted violently as if to escape.

The proceeds from the sale in the temple of the ‘archani thattu‘ on the festival day go to the various educational projects for children that the temple sponsors in northern Sri Lanka, devastated by the civil war there. The temple also supports other charitable projects in Sri Lanka, and in the last ten years has sent more the £1.3 million to them.

Many more pictures on My London Diary at Tamil Chariot Festival in Ealing.