Highgate – Mirrors, Mansions & Luxury Cars – 1989

Highgate – Mirrors, Mansions & Luxury Cars: My next photographic walk in 1989 was on Sunday 19th November, and began At Highgate Station on the Northern Line, from where long escalators took me up to Archway Road.

Mirrors, Archway Rd, Highgate, Haringey, 1989 89-11e-66
Mirrors, Archway Rd, Highgate, Haringey, 1989 89-11e-66

The picture is a double self-portrait with me appearing – if dimly – in two of the mirrors in a shop window with the message ‘IF YOU DO NOT SEE WHAT YOU REQUIRE IN THE WINDOW PLEASE ASK INSIDE. My Olympus OM4, held in my right hand (left in the mirrors) covers most of my face.

Mirrors have often featured in photographs and seem endemic in film, and in 1978 John Szakowski staged an exhibition of American photography since 1960 and a book, Mirrors and Windows exploring what he felt was the distinction between photographers whose work largely reflected their own subjective view and others who used photography as a window on the world. It is of course not a dichotomy and we all do both, though perhaps at different positions on the spectrum.

I wandered around a bit up and down Archway Road and can’t remember exactly where this shop was, but not far from the station. Eventually I turned south down Southwood Lane.

Southwood Mansions, Southwood Lane, Highgate, Haringey, 1989 89-11e-53
Southwood Mansions, Southwood Lane, Highgate, Haringey, 1989 89-11e-53

Southwood Mansions is an imposing late Victorian mansion block build in 1897 and although its entrance (one of a pair) looked rather down-at-heel in 1989, the large flats here now sell for well over a million pounds. This is a very desirable location, close both to the Underground station and to Highgate village.

Car Sales, Highgate, Haringey, 1989 89-11e-42
Car Showroom, Highgate, Haringey, 1989 89-11e-42

I went back to Archway Road and wandered a little around the area, taking few pictures. This rather grand car showroom had some rather expensive cars – I was told they are 930 and 964 Porsches and would be worth a fortune now and the first advert that came up on Google lists them at £64,995 to £449,995. I can’t find this showroom now and think it has probably been demolished.

North Hill, Highgate, Haringey, 1989 89-11e-45
North Hill, Highgate, Haringey, 1989 89-11e-45

These houses are a part of a small estate on North Hill, Bramalea Close and Cross Crescent. They are among those featured on a walk along the street by the Highgate Society which states “Arguably no other road in London, Britain, Europe or, who knows, even the world compares with North Hill in terms of the diversity of its domestic architecture” though it gives rather little information about these. They were built between 1976 and 1982.

BMW, Garage, The Victoria, Pub, 28, North Hill, Highgate, Haringey, 1989 89-11e-46
BMW, Garage, The Victoria, Pub, 28, North Hill, Highgate, Haringey, 1989 89-11e-46

More expensive cars at Highgate dealer Hexagon, founded by Paul Michaels in 1963. The company is still in business but this site has been demolished and replaced by housing.

The pub building is still there but closed in 2017 and planning permission was granted for the site to be developed with extra residential building but retaining the pub. Some think the developers are waiting until the pub is in such a poor condition they will be able to demolish it and develop the entire site. But so far it does not seem to have been treated to the usual fire started by persons unknown.

House, 53, North Hill, Highgate, Haringey, 1989 89-11e-31
Houses, 53, North Hill, Highgate, Haringey, 1989 89-11e-31

Thes building are not mentioned in the Highgate Society walk on North Hill, though I did photograph some of the others. I found it interesting for the porch and the balcony above at 51 and the 1930s style windows of 53 to the right (since replaced) and the unusual fenestration of 53 and 55, clearly a later addition to 51.

Kingdom Hall, North Hill, Highgate, Haringey, 1989 89-11e-35
Kingdom Hall, North Hill, Highgate, Haringey, 1989 89-11e-35

There is something very odd about these walls and steps that lead up to the door of the Kingdom Hall of Jehovah’s Witnesses at 33 North Hill, and it seems perverse in the era of accessible entrances. It was certainly not the straight gate of Matthew 7 verse 14. The The steps from the pavement now seem to have been levelled out and there is now I think step-free access to a lower level of the building.

More to come from my walk in Highgate.


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Dalston Doorcases to Marie Lloyd

Dalston Doorcases to Marie Lloyd – On Thursday 27th July 1989 I took the North London Line to Dalston Kingsland and crossed the road into Ridley Market and walked along Colvestone Crescent and on to Montague Rd. I can’t now remember what had brought me to North London for this brief interruption to my series of walks south of the river.

Doorway, Montague Rd, Dalston, Hackney, 1989 89-7k-61
Doorway, Montague Rd, Dalston, Hackney, 1989 89-7k-61

Here there are four houses on both sides of the street with similar doorways to the pair in my photograph with these odd decorative figures supporting the lintel. Those further down the street have simpler largely geometrical designs.

I was unsure what to call these muscular male figures, hand on hips staring down at the ground with what appear to be victory wreaths of laurel leaves around their heads and a pair of rather fishy looking tails. A long and detailed study published by the Hackney Society, The Victorian Villas of Hackney by Michael Hunter tells me they are mermen, and provides other examples of ‘bizarre doorcases’ in the Victorian villas of the 1850s and 1860s in Dalston. These date from 1861-6.

Shopfront, Cecilia Road, Dalston, Hackney, 1989 89-7k-63
Shopfront, Cecilia Road, Dalston, Hackney, 1989 89-7k-63

There are several houses close to Dalston Lane at the south end of Cecilia Road that have converted shopfronts with consoles matching that at the top right of this shop and this was one of these.

Although the advertising for the News of the World and Silk Cut suggests this was once a newsagent and tobacconist, it looks as if it was by 1989 a junk shop.

Eagle Shipping Services, 168, Dalston Lane, Dalston, Hackney, 1989 89-7k-65
Eagle Shipping Services, 168, Dalston Lane, Dalston, Hackney, 1989 89-7k-65

This building on the corner of Stanford Mews is still there and has kept its decorative iron balcony railing though not the Eagle Shipping Services advertising and graphics. Its upper floor is now simply painted white while the ground floor has been converted into a ‘rustic health food cafe & shop‘, Healthy Stuff.

Jas. Elves, marble mason, Carrara House, 164, Dalston Lane, Dalston, Hackney, 1989 89-7k-66
Jas. Elves, marble mason, Carrara House, 164, Dalston Lane, Dalston, Hackney, 1989 89-7k-66

James Elves was a marble mason and called his premises at 164 Dalston Lane Carrara House, after the area in Italy famous for its marble. Born in Shoreditch he lived and worked here with his family from around 1900 at least until 1930.

The house is still there and also its porch, but the tiles – presumably marble – of the front path have been replaced with duller slabs.

Houses, 112-4, Greenwood Rd, Dalston, Hackney, 1989 89-7k-53
Houses, 112-4, Greenwood Rd, Dalston, Hackney, 1989 89-7k-53

A few yards south of Dalston Lane, these houses in Greenwood Road were looking a little the worse for wear in 1989 but are considerably smarter now. With three stories and a basement these houses are now largely converted into four flats.

Doorways, 96-98, Graham Rd, Dalston, Hackney, 1989 89-7k-42
Doorways, 96-98, Graham Rd, Dalston, Hackney, 1989 89-7k-42

I continued south to Graham Road where I found more of Hackney’s remarkable doorcases. The left hand door is 98B as I think there will he a separate door in the area below to the basement flat.

Michael Hunter has a picture of a similar pair a few doors down where he states that the Roman standards are based on pattern books of classical architecture, “but the extraordinary swags of solidified shells over the doors of… Graham Road defy analysis.

The unfortunate door at right has since been replaced, but with another design that while preferable is still not in keeping with the building.

Doorways, 96-98, Graham Rd, Dalston, Hackney, 1989 89-7k-45
Doorways, 96-98, Graham Rd, Dalston, Hackney, 1989 89-7k-45

A closer view of one of the swags showing more clearly the shells and at the centre a lion’s head.

Marie Lloyd, plaque, 55, Graham Rd, Dalston, Hackney, 1989 89-7k-46
Marie Lloyd, plaque, 55, Graham Rd, Dalston, Hackney, 1989 89-7k-46

Finally for today, a rather simpler doorway in Graham Road with the GLC plaque recording that Marie Lloyd, Music Hall Artiste lived here. The dates are those of her life, 1870-1922.

Born in Hoxton in 1870 as Matilda Wood, she made her first appearances on stage when she was 14, taking the stage name Marie Lloyd the following year. So many of the old music hall songs we now know were made famous by here, not least for her remarkable use of nuance and double-entendre as well as displaying her undergarments in a way that respectable Victorians found deplorable but music hall audiences loved.

She moved into this house after her marriage in 1887 – but the marriage was not happy for long. After a disastrous bust-up she moved out from Graham Road in 1894.

As she sang ‘A little of what you fancy, does you good‘ but in her life she certainly became ‘one of the Ruins That Cromwell Knocked About a Bit‘ and at her funeral, thousands took the advice of ‘My Old Man‘ and followed the van to her burial from Woodstock Road in Golders Green to Hampstead Cemetery. Train journeys recently have often left me wondering ‘Oh Mr. Porter, what shall I do?

More from his walk shortly.


Stockwell Housing and Adventure

Stockwell Housing and Adventure: Continuing my walk on 17th July 1989 which began with Back in Stockwell.

Flats, Aytoun Place, Stockwell, Lambeth, 1989  89-7d-35
Flats, Aytoun Place, Stockwell, Lambeth, 1989 89-7d-35

In 1994, five years after I made this picture the Stockwell Park Community Trust was created in response to the high crime rate and poor housing services on the Stockwell Park Estate and surrounding areas. The estate was then ranked by the UK government in the worst ten estates in the country. Tenants on the estate got together and formed a Tenant Management Organisation to get funding to refurbish the estate which had been built around 1970 for Lambeth Council.

The Community Trust held a ballot and gained a 97% vote for them to manage the £220 million investment and managed not only to retain all the social housing but to create another five units as well as building some new private housing to help with the finances.

Working with others in the community they also tackled crime and drug dealing on the estate, reducing these massively. The estate was transferred from Lambeth to Network Housing Group in 2007 and is now managed by SW9 Community Housing.

The graffiti here refers to the well-known case of George Davis, sentenced in 1975 to 20 years for an armed robbery which for once he had no part in. Though there were probably many other Georges who were also fitted up by police.

Houses, 37-39, Lorn Rd, Stockwell, Lambeth, 1989 89-7d-21
Houses, 37-39, Lorn Rd, Stockwell, Lambeth, 1989 89-7d-21

A block of 23 acres ofland of the west side of Brixton Road was leased in 1804 by Randle Jackson, barrister-at-law and an expert on Indian affairs and Robert Slade. In 1804 they split the estate, Jackson taking the northern part. In 1832 Jackson also acquired a stretch of Stockwell Park Road.

Only a few houses along Brixton Road were built before Jackson’s death in 1837, and it was only after this around 1840 that the two streets Lorn Road and Groveway (then Grove Road) were laid out on what had been gardens and outhouses. Lorn Road forms the approach from Brixton Road to St Michael’s Church on Stockton Park Road.

These Grade II listed houses date from the 1840s and are described as cottages ornés and are very much in a Gothic style. Perhaps rather over-exuberantly Gothick.

Houses, 37-39, Lorn Rd, Stockwell, Lambeth, 1989 89-7d-25
Houses, 37-39, Lorn Rd, Stockwell, Lambeth, 1989 89-7d-25

A wider view of the two houses. There are quite a few other listed houses and others of interest from the mid and later 19th century in Lorn Road, Groveway and Stockwell Park Road which were build on the Jackson estate, but I took few pictures.

Adventure Playground, Slade Gardens, Stockwell, Lambeth, 1989 89-7d-12
Adventure Playground, Slade Gardens, Stockwell, Lambeth, 1989 89-7d-12

Slade Gardens gets its name from Robert Slade, proctor-at-law, who took the southern part of the estate he had leased with Randle Jackson and was suceeded by his two sons. Slade’s younger son Felix is rather better-known than his father for the art school which he enable by a bequest to University College London in 1871. The Slade School of Art was one of the earliest schools to admit women on the same basis as men.

The site was acquired by the London County Council after the Second World War when many of the houses on the site had been badly damaged by a flying bomb which killed 11 people. The LCC bought up the remaining houses and demolished them. It was opened to the public as a park in 1958 and the adventure playground is on part of the site.

Adventure Playground, Slade Gardens, Stockwell, Lambeth, 1989  89-7d-13
Adventure Playground, Slade Gardens, Stockwell, Lambeth, 1989 89-7d-13

Much of the ideas behind adventure playgrounds came from the ‘Junk Playground’ estatblished by Carl Sorenson in 1943 near Copenhagen, based on his observations of how children actually played on waste ground, building sites and bomb sites etc. The movement spread to this country and a number of such playgrounds were set up in urban areas in the decades after the war. Play leaders encouraged imaginative play and tried to prevent serious accidents as well as discouraging drug use.

I think this adventure playground was set up around 1970. In 1999 it became independently managed by local residents and a voluntary committee was formed and the playground was set up as a new charity.

House, 55, Stockwell Park Rd, Lorn Rd, Stockwell, Lambeth, 1989  89-7d-15
House, 55, Stockwell Park Rd, Lorn Rd, Stockwell, Lambeth, 1989 89-7d-15

This house has its main frontage on the Stockwell Park Road with this fairly recent extension at the side along Lorn Road.

The other half of this semi-detached house, probably dating from the late 1840s is grade II listed, but this half is not, probably because of this extension as the two halves look almost identical from the frontage on Stockwell Park Road. But although very different in character this seems to me an interesting addition.

House, 41, Stockwell Park Rd, Stockwell, Lambeth, 1989 89-7e-62
House, 41, Stockwell Park Rd, Stockwell, Lambeth, 1989 89-7e-62

Another house in the area with considerable individuality, 41 Stockwell Park Road described as an ‘Irregular stuccoed early C19 house’ is Grade II listed. The house is on the corner of Groveway and I think was probably one of the first built on the road, probably in the 1840s.

It has a much less sympathetic building attached, a plain four storey modern block you can just see at the right of the picture but this has not prevented its listing – and no reason why it should. But sometimes there seems to be a large element of architectural snobbery in listing decisions.

More from Stockwell in a later post.