Pancakes in the City – 2012

Pancakes in the City: Tuesday 21st February 2012 was Shrove Tuesday – Pancake Day – and there were a number of pancake races taking place around London. I photographed two of these with very different ethos.

Pancakes in the City

At the heart of the City in Guildhall Yard the various City of London Livery companies showed the City at its most competitive in what has now became a tradition of inter-livery pancake races on Shrove Tuesday, organised by the Worshipful Company of Poulters since 2004.

Pancakes in the City

Here there were carefully drawn up rules and practices.

“The Gunmakers start each heat using a miniature cannon (which can make a very loud bang), the Clockmakers hold stopwatches to time the races , the Fruiterers provide lemons, the Cutlers plastic forks, the Glovers white gloves required to be worn by each runner, while the Poulters provide the eggs essential to make the pancakes.”

Pancakes in the City

This is a highly organised event raising funds for the annual Lord Mayor’s charity – in 2012 the Barts and The London Charity, on behalf of the Trauma Unit at The Royal London Hospital.

Pancakes in the City

This was the first year in which women taking part in the Ladies events were allowed to wear trousers – previously they had been required to have skirts reaching below the knee. And there are many other rules including the wearing of special hats for the occasion.

Pancakes in the City

This is the City having fun in their own rather circumscribed and very serious way.

I photographed this event for a number of years, but haven’t done so for a while, partly because it became difficult to work at it without prior accreditation which I couldn’t be bothered with, but mainly because I thought I had got everything I could out of it and I was just repeating myself.

I left before the final races to photograph a very different event taking place in Leadenhall Market, along a much more restricted course and between ad-hoc teams from various businesses in and around the market.

There were far fewer rules, just those needed to outline the races, with teams carrying and tossing the pancakes in this relay event. The narrow space available limited the heats to two teams at a time.

The shoe polishers kept working between races

There were prizes provided by The Lamb Tavern in the market, who also fielded a team along with outers including the cheese shop and the shoe shiners who fought it out in the final.

Or at least they did when after an initial run when the cheese shop team simply walked the course as they preferred the second prize – a bottle of champagne and a £50 bar tab at the Lamb – to the first of a restaurant voucher.

“Some haggling followed and a re-run was demanded – and after the Lamb had agreed both teams would get the bar money there was a close-fought battle for the honour of winning, won narrowly for the second year in the short history of the race by the team from the shoe stall.”

Pancakes in the City – Leadenhall Market
Pancakes in the City – Guildhall


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Shrove Tuesday Pancake Races 2012

Shrove Tuesday Pancake Races 2012
The Worshipful Company of Furniture Makers get ready for the inter-livery pancake races

Back in 2012, Shrove Tuesday also fell on February 21st. The annual date depends on the date for Easter, calculated by an esoteric formula, the computus, agreed in AD395, which makes it first Sunday after the Paschal full moon, the first full moon after the fixed approximation of the March Equinox, 21 March. The actual date differs between the western Christian tradition (Protestant and Catholic) which uses the Gregorian calendar introduced in 1582 and the eastern Orthodox churches which stuck with the Julian.

Shrove Tuesday Pancake Races 2012
The Chief Commoner shows how to toss a pancake

Of course historically its more complex than this, but fortunately we don’t need to bother about it, as the annual dates are marked in calendars published in print or online. Shrove or Pancake Tuesday is always 47 days before Easter Sunday, and the ecclesiastically more important day that follows, Ash Wednesday, is the first day of Lent.

Shrove Tuesday Pancake Races 2012

Few of us still give up things for Lent, though some still stop eating things like chocolate or biscuits, but it used to be a much more serious and widespread observance. Making pancakes was simply a way to use up eggs, milk and fat before the start of Lent and it was also an occasion for a bit of fun – hence pancake races.

Shrove Tuesday Pancake Races 2012
The Gunmakers fire a cannon to start each race

But there was also a more serious side to Shrove Tuesday, with people attending church and confessing their sins to a priest and being assigned appropriate penance, after which they were absolved from their sins, a practice known as shriving.

There are separate races for men, women and Masters

Until relatively recently, pancake races were only held in a few villages, reputed to have their origin in 1445 at Olney in Buckinghamshire, a few miles north of Milton Keynes, when a local housewife was still making her pancakes when the church bell for shriving rang, and she ran to the church holding her pan.

Earlier in origin were mob football games with large crowds taking place and streets and commons, sometimes between goals large distances apart, which sometimes caused a great deal of chaos and injury. In 1835 football was banned on public highways by Act of Parliament, and the practice has largely died out, though still celebrated in a few towns around the country.

Pancake races have come back in a big way this century, often as charity events such as that which takes place in Guildhall Yard in the City of London. The races here, which are between members of the various City of London Livery companies, where begun by the Worshipful Company of Poulters in 2004 and raise money for the annual Lord Mayor’s charity.

A fancy dress competitor – the 2012 event was supporting Bart’s Trauma unit

I’ve several times written more about what goes on in these races on My London Dairy, including in 2012 and won’t go into more detail here. But its interest is very much in the way that the City lets its hair down a little and in the hugely competitive spirit which has perhaps made the City what it is – for better or often for worse.

The other pancake race I photographed in the City in 2012 was very different, although those taking part were also workers in the city. This is very much a fun event, organised by businesses in Leadenhall Market, particularly the Lamb Tavern which provided the prizes.

There has been a market here since 1309, though the current structure is splendidly Victorian from 1881, finely restored in 1991. The alley on which the races take place is a little narrow and hard to keep clear for the races as tourists wander through and customers go into the shops on each side. There was only room for two teams to compete in any race, which were run as relays with three legs.

Shoe-shiners kept at work between races

The race was first held here only in 2011, and the contestants are teams from local offices and businesses in and around the market. In 2012 a number of heats eliminated all but a team from the shoe-shine stand on the corner by the Lamb Tavern and another from a nearby cheese shop.

But the final provided a surprise with the cheese shop team making no effort to win and simply walking the course as they preferred the second prize of £50 to spend at the Lamb Tavern bar to the first which was a £75 voucher for the pub’s restaurant. After some haggling the Lamb called for a rerun promising both teams a bar tab, and there was then a hard fought battle battle for the honour of winning, won narrowly for the second year in the short history of the race by the team from the shoe stall.

Neck and neck as they come to the finish

I won’t bother to go and photograph the races this year, either these or several others around London which I’ve also photographed in some past years. The Guildhall event has become rather more organised and attended by many, many more photographers making getting good pictures almost impossible and accreditation – which I can’t be bothered with – essential. And while I’ll certainly return to Leadenhall Market and the Lamb Tavern, I’ll do it again (as I did a couple of months back) on a day there are no races and it is less crowded.

Pancakes in the City – Leadenhall Market
Pancakes in the City – Guildhall