Posts Tagged ‘Peckham High St’

Gold Bullion, Higgins & Jones And Vats – Peckham

Friday, January 6th, 2023

The previous post on this walk on Sunday 12th February 1989 was School, Meeting House, Houses & Shops – Peckham

Peckham Gold Bullion, Peckham High St, Peckham, Southwark, 1989 89-2e-26
Peckham Gold Bullion, Peckham High St, Peckham, Southwark, 1989 89-2e-26

Peckham Gold Bullion has “We wish to Purchase all Precious Metals & Stones” above the shop windows and a great deal of elaboration on notices in and on the windows below. I don’t know when the ‘EST 50 YEARS’ was painted proudly on the column at left, but the business must have been going since at latest the 1930s.

This shop, at 38 Peckham High Street on the corner of Bellenden Road is currently a mobile phone shop and internet cafe, also offering money transfer, travel agency, computer repair etc. Welch’s Florists is also long gone, its window covered by advertising for the phone shop.

Peckham High St, Peckham, Southwark, 1989 89-2e-11
Jones & Higgins, Peckham High St, Peckham, Southwark, 1989 89-2e-11

Jones & Higgins opened their first small shop on Rye Lane in 1867 which grew into the large and well-known department store. The magnificent building by local architects Henry Jarvis & Sons on the corner of Rye Lane and Peckham High St dates from 1894, and the company developed down Rye Lane as far as Hanover Park, though the property on the corner there was leased to a bank (and still is a bank.) The department store closed in 1980 and by the time I made this picture the upper floors were in use as the Peckham Palais nightclub which closed around 2010, leaving much of the building unoccupied and deteriorating – and for some time a part of it was a brothel. There is a long and detailed YouTube video on the history of the site, and the shop which was built when Rye Lane Peckham was a shopping centre to rival Oxford Street. The section on Jones and Higgins begins around 19 minutes in.

Part of the store, including the orginal shop had already been demolished for the unnecessarily ugly The Aylesham Centre a small part of which is at the right which opened in 1988. There are currently plans to redevelop this eyesore including a massive 27 storey block which are opposed by local campaign group Aylesham Community Action (ACA).

The former 1894 Jones & Higgins Department Store is unlisted, and was one of the Victorian Society’s
Top Ten Endangered Buildings 2021
.

Flats, Queens Rd, Peckham, Southwark, 1989 89-2e-12
Wood Dene Flats, Queens Rd, Peckham, Southwark, 1989 89-2e-12

This huge monolithic development along Queens Road was the Wood Dene estate, a part of the Acorn Estate built in the 1960s. It was demolished in 2007, its fate possibly hastened after the shocking murder of a woman, Zainab Kalokoh, who was holding her baby holding her baby at a christening in the estate’s community centre when shot by teenage gang robbers.

When the two joined blocks of 323 council homes were demolished in 2007 promises were made to 173 ‘temporarily’ decanted tenants that they would be allowed to return to the new homes on the site.

But the site was sold off on the cheap by Southwark Council to Notting Hill Housing Trust who originally promised to include around 116 social housing homes in the 333 new homes to be built on the site, now called Peckham Place. The housing association, now Notting Hill Genesis, took 12 years to complete the development, largely spent in bargaining the number of social homes in the scheme down to 54. But eventually they failed to provided any at all, with those 54 being marketed as “affordable” homes.

Queens House, Queens Rd, Peckham, Southwark, 1989 89-2e-13
Queen’s House, Queens Rd, Peckham, Southwark, 1989 89-2e-13

Queen’s House, close to the corner of Queen’s Road and Wood’s Rd attracted my attention because of the unusual layout of its windows, with four on the first floor and only three symmetrically above, as well as its very solid-looking porch. This Grade II listed building is thought to date from around 1725.

Woods Rd, Queens Rd, Peckham, Southwark, 1989 89-2e-14
Woods Rd, Queens Rd, Peckham, Southwark, 1989 89-2e-14

Another Grade II listed building, described as “Terrace of 3 houses, now shops and offices. c1700, with later alterations” and listed as 6,8 and 10 Queen’s Road.

It now looks rather better with the shopfronts removed, though as often the frontage is decorated by a large number of wheelie bins. The Surgery building at left is still there.

Carty & Sons, Woods Rd, Peckham, Southwark, 1989 89-2e-15
Carty & Sons, Woods Rd, Peckham, Southwark, 1989 89-2e-15

This house is also Grade II listed and thought to be late seventeenth century with alterations from around 1820. I’m unsure if the factory buildings and chimney behind were a part of Carty’s works which as my picture shows were ‘MAKERS OF VATS & WOODEN TANKS’ but think they are probably those of another company. There was at one time a sauce and pickle manufacturer in this area.

The house and yard behind was more recently occupied by a scaffolding company, but now the whole area around the house, including the Tuke School and the factory buildings has been cleared as far as Cossall Park has been cleared and rebuilt as housing and the listed house renovated.

This walk will continue in a later post. The first post on this walk was Aged Pilgrims, Sceaux, Houses & Lettsom.


School, Meeting House, Houses & Shops – Peckham

Wednesday, January 4th, 2023

The previous post on this walk on Sunday 12th February 1989 was A Market, Chapel & More Houses – Peckham

School, Bellenden Rd, Peckham, Southwark, 1989 89-2e-45
Highshore School, Bellenden Rd, Peckham, Southwark, 1989 89-2e-45

You will look in vain for this school on Bellenden Road now. The school, a special school, moved to a shared site with Archbishop Michael Ramsey School,Camberwell in 2013 leaving the building empty. It was demolished in 2015 and replaced by Cherry Garden special school, which moved out of Bermondsey to here.

I’m unsure as to the date of this school, though it was clearly postwar, possibly dating from the 1960s. Perhaps surprisingly it was not mentioned by Cherry and Pevsner in their London 2: South volume though it seemed to me to be clearly of architectural interest. Southwark Council described it as “a distinctive post-war school” but wanted to knock it down so went on to say “it is not of sufficient quality of construction nor is it sufficiently unique to warrant the particular protection given by listing“. I can’t comment on the structural soundness from the four pictures I took but can’t think where you can find a similar building. It gets a rather deprecating comment in the Holly Grove Conservation Area Appraisal, “Highshore School, immediately adjacent to the conservation area, was built using standardised lightweight constructional systems and open site-planning principles which undermine the established morphology of street frontages“, not fitting in neatly with the Georgian housing in the area.

House, Highshore Rd, Peckham, Southwark, 1989 89-2e-33
House, Highshore Rd, Elm Grove, Peckham, Southwark, 1989 89-2e-33

This house is on the corner of Higshore Road and Elm Grove and I think its address is 64 Elm Grove. It is certainly a very impressive and substantial late Victorian house with a quirkiness I found appealing enough to take a second frame.

House, Highshore Rd, Peckham, Southwark, 1989 89-2e-34
House, Highshore Rd, Peckham, Southwark, 1989 89-2e-34

Post Office Depot, Highshore Rd, Peckham, Southwark, 1989 89-2e-35
Post Office Depot, Highshore Rd, Peckham, Southwark, 1989 89-2e-35

I didn’t photograph the listed houses in Highshore Road, perhaps suffering from a surfeit of rather standard Georgian or early Victorian houses in the area. Fine though they are I didn’t feel a need to photograph all of them.

The Post Office Depot is rather less usual and carries a ‘Historic Southwark’ board as well as being Grade II listed. This is possibly the earliest building in what was then known as Hanover Street, built in 1816 as the Friends Meeting House, apparently on the site of a pond. It was considerably enlarged in 1843.

Shops, Rye Lane, Peckham High St, Peckham, Southwark, 1989 89-2e-21
Shops, Rye Lane, Peckham High St, Peckham, Southwark, 1989 89-2e-21

These buildings are stll there at the north end of Rye Lane, though now with different shops, but almost all the buildings visible on Peckham High Street in the picture have gone. There is still a bank at 65 Peckham High Street the extreme corner of which can just be seen but the rest of the buildings including the Midland Bank have gone, with a walkway here now leading to the Peckham Pulse Leisure Centre built in 1998.

Shops, Peckham High St, Peckham, Southwark, 1989 89-2e-22
Shops, Peckham High St, Peckham, Southwark, 1989 89-2e-22

I took another picture of these shops from a slightly different viewpoint to one I had made a month earlier which I wrote about aat some length in a post on that earlier walk. The building housing ‘Stiletto Ecpresso’ has been replaced since 1989 by a taller and rather less interesting structure but the rest still look much the same, though with different uses.

Canal Head, Peckham High St, Peckham, Southwark, 1989 89-2e-23
Canal Head, Peckham High St, Peckham, Southwark, 1989 89-2e-23

Had I been aware of the changes that were soon to take place in this area I would have made more than this picture at Canal Head. This was the start of the walk along the route of the Peckham Branch of the Surrey Canal, at the back of what is now the The Drovers Arms, roughly at the south-east corner of the more recent Leisure Centre.

Doorway, Peckham High St, Peckham, Southwark, 1989 89-2e-24
Doorway, Peckham High St, Peckham, Southwark, 1989 89-2e-24

The Drovers Arms has the address 71-79 Peckham High St and tucked away down a short driveway at its read is this building at 71, now a dental surgery, Peckham Dental Care. The building at right with a bricked up and painted over doorway is the pub, which has a rather grander and more useful entrance on the High Street, opened in 2000.

The main building at 73-79 was built around the end of the 19th century, according to Historic England by architects J & J W Edmeston, for the London and South Western Bank. The Edmestons were a family of architects working in London, of whom the best known was probably James Edmeston Jr (1823-98). I think 71 may be a little earlier.


This walk will continue in a later post. The first post on this walk was Aged Pilgrims, Sceaux, Houses & Lettsom.

Peckham – Pubs, Shops, AEU And A Fire Station

Sunday, November 20th, 2022

The previous post on this walk I made on Sunday 29th January 1989 was Windows, A Doorway, Horse Trough and Winnie Mandela.

Camberwell Fire Station,Peckham Road, Peckham, Southwark, 198989-1h-45-Edit
Camberwell Fire Station,Peckham Road, Peckham, Southwark, 198989-1h-45

The Grade II listed Camberwell Fire Station by Edward Cresy Junior dating from 1867 is the earliest surviving purpose-built fire station in London, possibly in the country. Two of the three ground floor appliance bays of this gothic building have been converted to windows. It is now South London Gallery Fire Station, a contemporary arts centre for the South London Gallery. It was replaced by a more modern fire station, now demolished, in 1920.

It was only listed in November 2008, and the official listing names it as Former Peckham Fire Station. The h listing text explains that “There are a small number of surviving fire engine sheds dating from the first half of the C19: simple, single cell buildings were designed to house a fire pump and built by local vestries or by public subscriptions. The Metropolitan Fire Brigade stations are of a different order: publicly-funded, multi-storey buildings designed to provide accommodation for the newly-created fire brigade officers and to house engines, horses and equipment. “

Peckham Lodge, Amalgamated Society of Engineers, Peckham Rd, Grummant Rd, Peckham, Southwark, 1989 89-1h-31
Peckham Lodge, Amalgamated Society of Engineers, Peckham Rd, Grummant Rd, Peckham, Southwark, 1989 89-1h-31

The Amalgamated Union of Engineering Workers had their headquarters here from 1900 until 1996 when they became a part of Amicus. Their slogan ‘Be United and Industrious’ is above the door in Grummant Rd. The building was threatened with demolition in 2007 but has so far survived.

Shops, Peckham High St, Sumner Ave, Peckham, Southwark, 1989 89-1h-32
Shops, Peckham High St, Sumner Ave, Peckham, Southwark, 1989 89-1h-32

The western start of Peckham High Street and a very down at heel side street, a dead end leading around to the back of the shops. Along it can be seen some buildings of St James the Great R C Primary School. There was a school entrance here, and a footpath still leads to Sumner Street along the side of a brick school wall. What was open space here, Jocelyn Street Park, has now become, despite some local protests, Peckham Flaxyard, a council development with a total of 168 homes, of which just over half are for social rent, and a 24 for shared ownership, with around 48 for sale or rent at market prices. Part of this site was formerly occupied by a factory making laundry machines.

The corner shop was built with an entrance to suggest it was a building of some status and it looks as if it dates from around the end of the Victorian era.

Shops, Peckham High St, Peckham, Southwark, 1989 89-1h-33
Shops, Peckham High St, Peckham, Southwark, 1989 89-1h-33

The rather grandiose building at left, in 1989 an Opticians, is now the Kentish Drovers, a Wetherspoon’s pub. Until the 1990s there was a pub of the same name on the opposite side of the road with the same name. Stockmen on foot driving flocks of sheep and herds of cows up from Kent to Smithfield market might take a rest or a reviving drink in Peckham before continuing their dusty slow journey to London Bridge and on to market.

I think the doorway at No 77 is probably also a part of the pub, though the door isn’t in use. Everything to the right of this – Hyper Records, Francis Chappell & Sons Funerals, Nature Trail Health Foods and the Soujourner Truth Youth Association at 83 Peckham High Street has since been demolished along with other buildings up to 89. This now the large covered space leading to Peckham Library, Peckham Square, Peckham Pulse and the Surrey Canal Walk.

Shops, The Crown, pub, Peckham High St, Peckham, Southwark, 1989 89-1h-36
Shops, The Crown, pub, Peckham High St, Peckham, Southwark, 1989 89-1h-36

The Crown pub was at 119 Peckham Hight St. The building is still there, on the corner of Mission Place but no longer a pub. There appears to have been a pub here in 1851 and was advertising drag nights when I photographed it. It apparently morphed into a bizarrely decorated Irish pub, with a tractor in the window and tables and chairs nailed to the ceiling complete with glasses and playing cards, but apparently Sally O’Brien’s was not a success and the pub soon closed, becoming a series of shops and agencies and most recently a Tapas restaurant.

Junction, Peckham Hill St, Peckham High St, Peckham, Southwark, 1989 89-1h-21
Junction, Peckham Hill St, Peckham High St, Peckham, Southwark, 1989 89-1h-21

The Bun House, a pub at 96 Peckham High St on the left of this picture has the date 1898. It remained in business as a pub until January 2012 but is now a betting shop. There was a pub on this site at least by 1871. The rest of the frontages along the High Street also remain.

At right is M Manze’s Eel & Pie House, still in business, although temporarily closed in 1989. The vacant shop next door has had a number of occupants and is now a clothing shop. The crossing in the centre is still there but has only a short vestigial length of railings in a rather fancier style than those utilitarian ones in my photograph.

This junction is a convenient place for me to end this post which has mainly been on Peckham High Street. More on this walk shortly.


I Still Quite Like Peckham

Thursday, August 11th, 2022

I Still Quite Like Peckham

I Still Quite Like Peckham. Every time I visit Peckham I’m impressed by the vibrancy of Rye Lane, though perhaps if I lived there I might sometimes want to get away from the music, both live and recorded that assailed me from almost every street corner and some places between when I walked down to the Peckham Rye Station a few Saturdays ago.

I Still Quite Like Peckham

I didn’t take any photographs then – I was hurrying to catch a train, nor on my previous visit a few weeks earlier on my way to Nunhead Cemetery, but I have on some previous occasions, particularly on Saturday 11 Aug, 2007 when things were rather different and the ‘I love Peckham’ festival was in full swing. Here’s the piece I wrote about this on My London Diary and just a few of the pictures I also posted – you can see many more on the web site. The links I’ve left in the piece are all to other posts on that site, and I’ve kept the lower case only style I then used, but have corrected the odd typo.

I Love Peckham

Peckham, Saturday 11 Aug, 2007

I Still Quite Like Peckham

‘i love peckham’ is a festival backed by southwark council and based around the centre of peckham. although peckham has had a bad press – particularly over the murder of young damilola taylor in november 2000, and more recent violence on the streets, many parts of it are pleasant streets and vibrant shopping areas. recent investment – particularly since the murder – has led to a number of improvements.

I Still Quite Like Peckham

one of the more succesful regeneration projects has been in the bellenden road area which is home to a number of artists including tom phillips and antony gormley, both of whom have been involved in brightening up the streets.

I Still Quite Like Peckham

but there are still estates with corners that can hide dangers, and times when its wise to cross the road to avoid the dealers in their cars. it’s an area where it pays to be streetwise.

I Still Quite Like Peckham

as well as the activities in the square by the library and at the top of rye lane i photographed on saturday there were also other events, including a series of shop window displays.

I Still Quite Like Peckham

Like the other folks carrying built-in cameras on their latest mobile phones i did photograph some of these, but often felt that some of the other windows which had their normal displays were more interesting. but then i’ve always had an interest in shop windows, which feature strongly in projects such as ‘ideal café, cool blondes and paradise.

Kensal Green, 1988 from Ideal Café, Cool Blondes & Paradise

ideal café, cool blondes and paradise

on the main stage by peckham library were performances by indian musicians, a samba group and some young dancers from peckham. around the square were a number of sofas specially decorated for the occasion, many of which were greatly appreciated.

I Still Quite Like Peckham

this was the third annual i love peckham festival, but the previous ones had been blighted by british weather; today the sun shone on us at least most of the time, and the beach at times looked almost tropical.

The Human Rights Jukebox at Camberwell Green, 16 June 2007

i stopped off on the way home at the south london gallery, where the installation of isa suarez‘s human rights jukebox was coming to an end. i was pleased i’d stopped by to watch the video of the event and to have a beer and talk to a few of those involved with the project, including isa herself. i still find it mildly amusing to see myself on film, and there were glimpses of me (mainly my back) taking pictures, walking in the march, generally scurrying around and rather too lengthy a shot as i munched on a wholemeal sandwich.

despite these few moments, it was interesting to see the event again and from a different viewpoint. i was sorry i had to rush off to be home with friends.
more pictures