Some time ago I remember saying that Milton Keynes, where my elder son lives, was only around 50 miles away by canal, and that it would be possible to get there by cycling along the towpath. It was loose talk that I regretted when I did so earlier this week.
In fact the distance along the towpath is around 48 miles, but you have to add a bit at each end, perhaps another 10 miles. On good roads an easy afternoon ride.
But canal towpaths are generally not built for speed, although there are some sections with a good surface, others parts seem designed more as an obstacle course for cyclists. Parts are simply grass, which isn’t too bad, though it does slow you down, but often hidden in the grass are rabbit holes, half-buried bricks and worse. Sometimes there are deep ruts (fortunately after a short dry spell, most of the mud was as hard as rock.)
Even in some parts that have been carefully made up, the materials chosen have been – almost certainly deliberately – hazardous for cycles – such as large loose stones. The bridges and lock sides were originally built for horses, and include very short stretches too near to vertical to be cycle-friendly; at times I was sliding down stretches of loose material with both brakes full on and the wheels locked, and often had to dismount and push the bike up the last couple of yards.
Some of the newer replacement bridges have also been carefully designed to discourage cycling, and in a few places it is simply impossible to avoid carrying your bike up or down steps.
There are a few places with large holes in the path that a wheel could readily go through, and others where overhanging branches create a real hazard and my companion got a hefty blow from the end of a carelessly cut branch extending at head height across the path.
Open sheds between the canal and old Great Western main line
I started my journey along the canal by falling rather hard into a bush as I carried the loaded bike down some steps, and had blood streaming down my right arm, with several nasty cuts. Later falling around with the bike at various places I got several moderately deep leg wounds and I’m still suffering from an injury to my ribs which makes every movement painful – especially coughing and sneezing which is a problem with current high pollen levels. Although I can find a position in bed where the pain is hardly noticeable, I move slightly in my sleep and pain wakes me up at intervals thorugh the night.
Old and new canal side – Industry is demolished and flats take its place
The hot weather didn’t help either, and caused disastrous changes in my sugar levels. Several times on the way to Milton Keynes I simply had to dismount and lay down for a few minutes, eating sugary snacks or drinking sweetened lemonade to recover. On the way back I managed to drink enough of such things to keep ahead, though I was near collapse a couple of times in the last three miles.
Most of the people we met on the towpath were friendly and polite, and made way for us to get past, though going through the outskirts of Hemel Hempstead in both directions the path was blocked by small groups of women and children who simply refused to give way, just ignored us totally. Many of the canal dwellers do spread rather across the towpath, and it sometimes felt as if we were riding through someone’s living room, but all of them did move out of our way, often with a friendly remark. A few people seemed to regard cyclists as a deadly danger, pulling back away from the path while we were 50 yards away and cringing by the hedge until after we had passed. Other cyclists generally gave us plenty of room, though we did have a few head to head encouters under bridges; I’d meant to put a bell on the bike for the journy but forgot, and outside London few people seemed to ring them before going under the bridges – which are normally ‘blind’ for those coming in either direction.
We would have been better on off-road bikes. My frame is too large, making it slightly tricky to dismount in a standing position, and has a longer wheelbase than most. The suspension is non-existent, designed for racing, and the drop handlebars tranmit every imperfection of the road surface to your hands, and up through your arms to your shoulders and neck. By the time I arrived at MK my palms were swollen and blistered, and by the time I got back home there were blisters on my blisters.
I didn’t take many pictures. Partly becuase pretty landscape isn’t really my thing, but more because I didn’t want to stop and then have to start again. So most of those I did take where when I’d stopped for other reasons.
I’d also started out with a camera hanging around my neck normally. I walk around for hours many days without this being a problem – and usually I have two of them there. But after half an hour or so it was obvious this wasn’t going to work and was beginning to be painful. Putting my right arm through the strap so the weight was on my left shoulder helped, but the strap was too tight to take pictures with it carried like this. I had to stop and put my arm back through the strap to use the camera.
I’d taken the D700 rather than the D800E because I don’t yet have a spare battery for the latter, and though it lasts a day with ease, two might have been too much. Probably I needn’t have worried, as on the D700, although I had it switched on for probably around 20 hours all told (I took a few pictures in MK as well) I’d only taken 141 pictures in all and the battery is still reading 97%. It’s a replacement rather than a real Nikon battery, and those I have do give significanly more pictures from each charge.
On the journey there I left the 28-300 Sigma on the camera; its a lens whose only advantage is its relatively light weight, and I had a Nikon 20mm f2.8 (FX) in my cycle bag. For the return journey I put the lighter 20mm on the camera and kept the Sigma in the bag.
Things were a little easier coming home. I suppose it was slightly downhill, but I think the real difference was tackling some of the worst riding surfaces earlier in the day when we were fresher. Being a little more careful about keeping my sugar levels up and not becoming so dehydrated also helped. Even getting a puncture in my front tyre from a most impressive thorn near Tring didn’t hold us up too long, but the whole journey still took around 8 hours. Canals certainly weren’t built for high speed transport.
I managed to have a meal when I arrived home, then fell asleep, waking up sufficiently an hour later to wash up and then go to bed. Today I’m still in some pain and pretty wasted, so I’ve only done what was essential.
Of course there were some real high points of the ride that I’ve not mentioned – and I think that I failed to photograph, perhaps because they were not truly photogenic. Going through the canal cutting at Tring on bike is a very special experience, even more so than walking through it (which I’ve done a few times before.) There is a special kind of stillness on a bicycle, you can stop pedalling and the only noise is the wheels going over the odd twig and the wind in the trees, with the dappled sun coming through onto the canal. Your approach on near-silent wheels disturbs the wildlife less than footfalls, and is often fast enough to catch a duck or heron unaware as you sweep past inches from them. There was some magic, but I failed completely to catch that in my few pictures.
I’ve cycled by canals, and photographed them for many years. Back in the days when I started, you had to pay for a licence to do so, and I got stopped a few times for not having one. Eventually I did bother to get a licence (they were pretty cheap) and finally for a few years they were actually free before the British Waterways Board abandoned the whole idea. I’ll cycle along the canals again – some are excellent traffic free routes, such at that beside the Lea Navigation currently closed for the Olympics, where I photographed a picnic protest last weekend, but like many pleasures it is one that is better taken in small doses.
More pictures from the journey in due course on My London Diary.
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