Gunnersbury Park & Brentford – 2018

Gunnersbury Park & Brentford - 2018
Gunnersbury House Museum – the ‘Large Mansion‘

Gunnersbury Park & Brentford: Another family outing on Friday 24th August 2018 took us to Gunnersbury House Museum, a free museum jointly owned by the London Borough of Hounslow and the London Borough of Ealing. It turned out to be considerably more interesting than I expected.

Gunnersbury Park & Brentford - 2018
Lionel Road – now the site of Brentford Community Stadium

The 200 acre Gunnersbury estate was bought in 1925 from the Rothschild family by Ealing Borough Council and Acton Borough Council for £130,000, although it was all actually just outside their areas and in Brentford Urban District. They wanted to build over it, but the Rothschilds stipulated that all except a small part of it it was only to be used for leisure and recreation and it was opened to the public as a park by Neville Chamberlainn, then Minister of Health, in 1926.

Gunnersbury Park & Brentford - 2018
The elevated section of the M4 above the Great West Rd

Development of the site as a ‘country estate’ on the outskirts of London had begun in the late 17th century when the first large mansion, Gunnersbury House was built around 1663. The estate passed through various hands including wealthy merchant and MP Henry Furnese who had noted landscape designer William Kent give the park a makeover. Next Princess Amelia, favourite daughter of George II, had further changes made to the grounds for her famous parties there, including building a bathhouse.

Gunnersbury Park & Brentford - 2018
The temple is the only 18th century building remaining on site

The first mansion was demolished in 1801 and the estate was split into two adjoining estates each with a new mansion.

Gunnersbury Park & Brentford - 2018
A long series of rooms faces the garden in the ‘Large mansion’

The Grade II* listing for the ‘Large Mansion’ states it was built in “1801-28 by and for Alexander Copland; remodelled 1836 by Sydney Smirke for Nathan Mayer Rothschild, the City financier and Frankfurt-born founder of the British branch of this famous international Jewish banking dynasty.”

Gunnersbury Park & Brentford - 2018
The ‘Small Mansion’ still in rather poor condition

Next door the “Small Mansion”, on the site of the former mansion was built in 1801-1802 for Stephen Cosser according its Grade II listing, though other sources place it a few years later. It was extended with a service wing in 1837-44 by eccentric “Rogue Gothic” architect Joseph Peacock (1821–1893).

The Rothschilds had two French chefs who shared this office

The Rothschilds bought the Large Mansion (now the museum) and its gardens and park in 1835, adding the Small Mansion and its grounds in 1889 to recreate the now Grade II* listed Gunnersbury Park.

Large prints from Leopold de Rothschild’s Autochromes show the place as it was over a hundred years ago – with flamingos

I walked with Linda to the park from Kew Bridge Station along Lionel Road “with some difficulty as it is now a building site and crossed the Great West Road under the overhead M4, a Ballardian trek past the old and closed castellated gate to the park to enter into a sylvan wilderness, walking past the Potomac lake and its gothic folly.”

The garden slopes down from the house to a lake

Older members of our party took a shorter walk from the underground at Acton Central. Lionel Road is now overlooked by Brentford Community Stadium opened in 2020.

Princess Amelia’s Bath House

The park is certainly worth a visit and on My London Diary you can read more about what were for me the two highlights.These were the huge Rothschild’s kitchens where meals, not generally kosher, were prepared under the supervision of two French chefs, and a display of large prints from the Autochromes taken by Leopold de Rothschild using the first practical colour photography process patented by the Lumiere brothers in 1903 and sold to the public from 1907.

I made a new picture as we passed a cafe I photographed almost 30 years earlier on our way to Kew Bridge

We ate, not from those kitchens but from the modern park café, “tasty but rather insubstantial, and if you visit and are hungry, I’d advise a side order of chips” – or a short walk to a cheaper place near Acton Town station.

The Thames and Brentford Ait from under Kew Bridge

After the meal we said goodbye to the others and took a longer walk around the park before walking back to Kew Bridge station. With almost half and hour to wait for the next train we took a short walk by the River Thames to Brentford High Street and back.

Mooring on The Hollows

You can read more about our trip to the park and the museum and see many more pictures from the day on My London Diary at Gunnersbury Park & Brentford.


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Chiswick House & Gardens 1988

Chiswick House & Gardens 1988

Classic Bridge, Chiswick House Gardens, Chiswick, Hounslow, 1988
Classic Bridge, Chiswick House Gardens, Chiswick, Hounslow, 1988 88-9b-56

I think we managed to get most of our students together at Kew Bridge after our walk along Brentford Riverside to take the train for the single stop to Chiswick, from where we walked the third of a mile or so to Chiswick House Gardens.

Sphinx, Chiswick House, Chiswick House Gardens, Chiswick, Hounslow, 1988 88-9b-35
Sphinx, Chiswick House, Chiswick House Gardens, Chiswick, Hounslow, 1988 88-9b-35

As it says on the web site, “Chiswick House and Gardens is one of the most glorious examples of 18th-century British architecture and landscaped gardens, with over 300 years of discovery, inspiration and delight.” The house and gardens were created between 1725 and about 1738 by William Kent working for his friend Richard Boyle, the third Earl of Burlington and represent the birth of the English Landscape Movement and the house one of the finest examples of neo-Palladian architecture in England.

Lion, Exedra, Chiswick House Gardens, Chiswick, Hounslow, 1988 88-9b-32
Lion, Exedra, Chiswick House Gardens, Chiswick, Hounslow, 1988 88-9b-32

I don’t think we told the students a great deal about this, but we had showed them some pictures before the outing, including some fine photographs by Bill Brandt and Edwin Smith, and perhaps even some of my own.

Steps, Chiswick House, Chiswick, Hounslow, 1988 88-9b-14
Steps, Chiswick House, Chiswick, Hounslow, 1988 88-9b-14

Over the years the grounds and the house had deteriorated and before it had been sold to Middlesex County Council in 1929 had been a mental health institution. The house was taken over by the Ministry of Works (now English Heritage) in 1948, and they embarked on a major project to restore both house and gardens to their original state.

Bust, Chiswick House Gardens, Chiswick, Hounslow, 1988 88-9b-15
Bust, Chiswick House Gardens, Chiswick, Hounslow, 1988 88-9b-15

The gardens at the time of our visit in 1988 were in parts rather less restored than they are now, and I think access was a little less restricted and we could wander freely around them. The park is open free of charge to the public every day and is well worth a visit. Back in 1988 there were relatively few visitors and apart from our group they were mainly locals walking their dogs. Now after another major restoration with £12m of national lottery money and a new café completed in 2012 it gets rather more visitors.

Bust, Chiswick House Gardens, Chiswick, Hounslow, 1988 88-9b-16
Bust, Chiswick House Gardens, Chiswick, Hounslow, 1988 88-9b-16

The café was the London Building of the year in 2011, and the ‘artisan’ food isn’t bad if you like that sort of thing, though back in 1988 we brought sandwiches.

Burlington Lane, Chiswick, Hounslow, 1988 88-9c-63
From Station footbridge, Burlington Lane, Chiswick, Hounslow, 1988 88-9c-63

We didn’t get all of the students back to catch the train home from Chiswick station on any of the occasions we took them there. I think this may have been the year when police held two of them as they ran across the park to try and get to the train on time and held them for several hours without allowing them to contact anyone. But normally when we took students out some would disappear and go clubbing in London, coming back bleary-eyed to college the following morning to sleep in our lessons.